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There is enough 'lash' in the stand's gearbox that you can feel when the CG of the motor passes TDC (so to speak), and the whole motor freewheels that ~1mm or so. It becomes second nature to feel when the motor is almost at that point, as it suddenly gets easier to crank, and you can ease the rotation through that transition.
The standoffs on the Sunex are very long, definitely need to make your own 'bolts' out of M12 x 1.5 threaded rod.
Grease the shaft well ,that goes into the rotation part of the stand. It turns easy then. Be careful when you over center, though, it will swing fast! Ask me how I know....lol
I have a 1984 928 automatic.
I had a quick question about the stand. I just put my engine on a stand but it's super hard to rotate.
Do the bolts on the stand that allow for different adjusting points need to be looser?
Did you pull the locking pin out off the top of the central pivot point?
Are you trying to rotate that engine on the stand while still having it attached to the leveler/hoist?
Don't loosen any of the bolts or adjustment bolts on the 4-arms.
thats the stand config ive always used.
you rotate the engine via the engine, not that handle. too much friction to work that well at the crank handle. when its just a block and you are putting in pistons, no problem.. with the heads on... now the thing is pretty heavy! lift the engine and rotate from the front of the engine.
thats the stand config ive always used.
you rotate the engine via the engine, not that handle. too much friction to work that well at the crank handle. when its just a block and you are putting in pistons, no problem.. with the heads on... now the thing is pretty heavy! lift the engine and rotate from the front of the engine.
But do be careful. The engine is heavy, and can easily get away from you and just rotate over. I prefer to have someone else to lend a hand when rotating a fully assembled large engine even when it is on a stand.
Fizzziks lesson will be apparent as you try to rotate an assembled engine while on the stand. The top is WAY heavier than the bottom, using the standard yokes with crank center same as yoke roll axis. Trying to roll the 400+ pound engine upright almost always ends up with a serious oh $h!t moment when the whole stand starts to roll over.
And then, if you've really screwed up and left the engine full of oil, you can get most of 8 quarts of oil on your garage floor in a nanosecond.
Do you have any idea how far 8 quarts of oil will spread once it gets on your garage floor??
Let's just say that any work on the engine or anything else in the garage ceases at that point and the next 6-12 hours is spent cleaning oil from every square inch of the garage floor.
DO NOT AXE me how I know this, just trust that I do.
Haha. That's funny. No oil in mine. Thanks for the input. I will turn from the front and not loosen the bolts. Yes I took pin out. Thank you for your reply.
Instead of placing the block on the stand matching the crank to the pivot of the stand, drop the engine in the mount so that the pivot point is higher on the block. The engine will be less top heavy and rotate with better balance.
11-19-2013, 07:14 PM
