Speedtoys

Using a 2000lb Harbor Freight stand..

I guess, I could just get a rod of 12x1.5mm stock, and a box of generic 12x1.5mm open lug nuts with some washers.

I know the bottom points are not threaded..hence the threaded rod just cut to the lengths that I need. Cheaper than bolts.

Seem right?

Rob Edwards

Si.

Ducman82

i uses old head studs.

Mrmerlin

an additional support under the snout is a good thing

Speedtoys

I'll have the 2000lb HF stand, pretty nice unit.

Will also break out the run tools and add steel to it for a wider stance, I'll call it the 'Larry Craig'.

Id like it more stable as I rotate the engine.

Rob Edwards

The factory made a support tool for engines on a stand, the 9128. I recall a vendor (not one of our regulars) selling a similar appearing one, meant to pick one up but never got around to it. Something on the order of $70-80, IIRC.

danglerb

The 1k HF stand is fine as is, nix on the 750 lb T base, but both of the H bases should be OK as is.

Some earlier discussion I think, maybe on http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4 or maybe here on gearhead designs, mods, and models. The HF stands do sag some, don't turn easily, but as long as the basic balance isn't "too far off" I've had no trouble turning the engine on the stand with modest brute force.

I used bolts sourced from Napa.

*** the HF and most other similar stands despite the presence of wheels are NOT supposed to be moved with an engine on the stand.

Handy item requiring welding skills, is to modify a cheap Chevy/Ford engine cradle, a very short stand that puts the block almost on the floor, easy to move around when not actually working on it.

Jim Devine

Maximum abuse test- the welds held!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...engine_stands/

The only downside of the 2000 lb. one is the front legs clearing an engine hoist.

69gaugeman

Grease the shaft well ,that goes into the rotation part of the stand. It turns easy then. Be careful when you over center, though, it will swing fast! Ask me how I know....lol

dr bob

Fizzziks lesson will be apparent as you try to rotate an assembled engine while on the stand. The top is WAY heavier than the bottom, using the standard yokes with crank center same as yoke roll axis. Trying to roll the 400+ pound engine upright almost always ends up with a serious oh $h!t moment when the whole stand starts to roll over.

Next time somebody decides to make a 928-specific yoke, consider moving the block down maybe 4-6" relative to the yoke roll axis. That would pick the block up a bit for installing the crank and girdle, down some for installing heads and top-end bits.

Jim Devine

It can be made more controlable while rolling by
making up something like this- uses an old flex plate & starter gear from any car.
Still is too top heavy, this just helps it from snapping over.

http://www.pewsplace.com/wp-content/...SE-PAINT-3.jpg

Rob Edwards

Cost notwithstanding, by far the best solution is a Sunex 8300GA geared stand. Rotating a ~530 lb S4 motor is an easy, 1 handed, 60 second operation.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sx...FQdyQgodaQYABA

Ducman82

i just used that stand. borrowed from a local shark man.... fantastic stand! and if hans can ever find a cheaper fab guy for his adapters...........

Speedtoys

Rob: It never felt like the CG with the heads on..was a little tipsy for the stand?

Ducman82

i rotated mine plenty of times, never felt tipsy to me.. crank moves it at a nice easy pace.