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How can I troubleshoot a misfire without durametric?
This is kind of involved, so bear with me...
A couple years ago I replaced the coilpacks and plugs in my '05 V6. Since then, every once in a while one of the replacement coilpacks just daggone melts. My solution has been to simply pull it and put back one of the original coilpacks, which I luckily kept. As stupid as this sounds, it's been working. My P!g has about 140k on it and runs great.
This morning, another of the replacement coilpacks went south and I did the usual: I replaced it with one of the original coilpacks. This was on the frontmost cylinder (#1? I'm not sure.). However, on restarting the truck, I still have a miss. I'm not sure if it's the same cylinder or if another cylinder is giving me trouble.
The question is: Is there a way to determine the cylinder with the miss without a Durametric? Someone in my PCA Region has a Durametric, but I'd rather figure it out myself and save him the drive.
If you go this route - disconnect the feed wire to the coil. Do not remove the coil from the plug. Firing a coil that isn't connected to a plug means it has no path to ground for the ignition pulse. In that case - it creates a path to ground back through the primary side of the coil, potentially destroying both the coil and/or the ECU that drives the coil.
So - disconnect the power feed wires to the coils one by one. I'd start with the one you replaced.
Okay, so I remembered that I have 'Automatic' and that it throws codes. I fired up Finn and Automatic gave me a code for cylinder 'A'. I noticed one of the connectors on the plug looked a little 'toasted' yesterday, but this seems like confirmation. So, it looks like I need to replace the connector.
06-28-2016, 11:37 AM
How can I troubleshoot a misfire without durametric?
