Here's a fun one.

Just picked up an 85 US car. In the garage, tinkering with various items.

Both keys are hanging in car. Didn't think much of it, because when locking up at times on drive home, central locking appeared inop. No remote fobs or anything present.

Randomly walked up to the passenger door to open it and heard "whirrr".

Suddenly, unprovoked, both doors locked with keys inside. Hatch and hood, too.

Now what? And why?

 

Use a wedge in top rear corner of door, pry the frame back, long STIFF wire, retrieve keys thru wedged opening in door frame.

Dont worry, it wont bend, glass wont break.

AAA member? Call them to do it, they will use an wedge to get it open, then airbag(s) to open it more, and do that for you for free...and again, wont hurt nothin.

 

Any suggestions on what/how to wedge? Was out poking and something slim enough but stiff enough that won't damage everything is tough to figure.

Based on another thread I searched up here, will also call dealer in the am about coming in with title and ID to order a spare key.

 

Wood, nylon...well, a doorstop?

You'll have to do this yourself, and perhaps scratch some paint (you wont damage anything), or cal AAA and they have the right tools.

DO NOT LET THEM try to jimmy the lock, verboten! Wedge, a rod to fetch the keys.

I think AAA costs way less than a dealer key....might shock you.

 

Don't feel bad. Been there done that

Instead of removing or bashing a rear side window or chance twerking a door by prying. I used a technique described in my thread recommended by a previous victim.

There is a circular access panel under the passenger rear foot well that will push up using a floor jack. It's sealed into place and can be resealed when finished. Once you have the access panel pushed up inside the car, if you have long arms you can reach the door lock ****. If not, use pliers or channel locks to get extra reach

 

My dad locked my keys in my 81 (twice). First time we had a locksmith through AAA come to try to get it opened using the method above with no success after 3 hours.

I popped it using a bent coat hanger (in the style of the factory tool, there is a procedure in the WSM for this) in about 30 minutes with the security plates in place.

Just be mindful not to mangle the door seals.

The second time it took 2 hours because the car was in the sun on a hot day.

 

With pics.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ey-in-car.html

 

"AAA come to try to get it opened using the method above with no success after 3 hours."

he sucked ***** then.

Ive worked recovery, and Ive had to..twice..rescue my kid from this.

Its about a 5 minute job..wedge, two airbags, pole/wire, done.

Been very very few cars I could not do that on. But..not every tow driver is meant to do more than work a chain or a strap.

Doors are a long metal springs, a lockout recovery wont bend them...I dunno why people say that.

Trouble with wire in door, is you risk pulling off some plastic heim joints in there, creating problem #2, but it can be done.

 

I am shocked at the number of 928's that have a failing rear hatch mechanism. You may try forcefully lifting up on the hatch with your fingers. I would never use more than my hands on this method but it would be my first line of offense before calling someone in. We saved my son in his 85 using this method and it is a good way for me to check out any new parts cars that come in locked up.

 

Thanks, all. Great options.

I'll try the factory slim jim tool first. (Have weld rod and other items, plus a parts car with door opened up to practice on).

If not, I'll pop the rear plug and reach in for the ****.

I'm also calling the dealer to see if they'll get me a spare.

Will report back on which work.

 

Is this a picture of trying to open a locked car or an attempt to steal it?!

 

If you search this forum, you will find a similar thread that has a link to the actual Porsche diagram for the J shaped wire that can be used to slip between the door and the glass and release the lock. I haven't done it myself (sounds like something we should all practice) but as I recall you are in effect pushing up on the underside of the lock shaft that protrudes through the top of the door panel. Like others said, a matter of minutes with the right tool and knowhow.

Only because you mention "slimjim" I don't think a traditional slimjim will work.

The one time I got locked out, the locksmith used a small inflatable bladder to spring the door. We snagged the keys with a wire and pulled them through the door. The bladder is probably the best from a standpoint of not tearing up the door seal.

It is sort of amazing that the 928, originally costing the price of a modest house, and having an alarm system, could be opened so easily with a tool found in factory literature, in a few minutes. I don't even know if the alarm will sound in this scenario.

 

Hi Harvey! I found this on your website and I hope I can post it. It may help the OP.

 

Alarm will sound. And it will disable the engine.

It arms or disarms with the key (long key). The switch is an extra, 2 pin lock cylinder section behind the "real" lock cylinder.

 

Any thoughts on why the car randomly locked down while sitting there with the key in the ignition? It had been similarly sitting for two weeks. Closed the door, walked away for a few minutes, came back, went to open pass door, and suddenly heard the whirring of the locks. Why, my new friend, why?