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Rich,
I'm not sure about the actual % difference in volumes of the oil pumps over the years, but I have read that you definitely want to stick to the original year of pump for your block. Apparently the changes affected clearances and you'll run into issues. Ideally more flow would be nice but if this was good enough for the Callaway turbo cars and the 924 GTP, it's good enough for me
Yeah that rear seal was a snug fit. I started by seating it into the block and using a mallet to get it in as far as I could. Next I did a dry-fit of the cover, and torqued it to spec. When I removed the cover I noticed some of the seal material was pinched where the block meets the cover on both sides of the button. I trimmed the material that got pinched, and it went together well after that. I used a very small amount of Yamabond 4 all around it for good measure.
Lookin real good there, Michael...Thanks for the tip on the oil pump...Mine is already installed on the block, but thought that since the engine is out (still..dang it) that it might be a fairly easy re-do to get a bit more flow..and possibly offset the nagging bearing problem..just a passing thought.
Lookin real good there, Michael...Thanks for the tip on the oil pump...Mine is already installed on the block, but thought that since the engine is out (still..dang it) that it might be a fairly easy re-do to get a bit more flow..and possibly offset the nagging bearing problem..just a passing thought.
It seems like there are a lot of theories about the whole #2 bearing issue. I'm not an expert but it seems like a lot of it has to do with oil level, and pump cavitation at high revs. But it does make you wonder why Porsche increased the size of the pump.
Rich, quick question for you, since you've installed the pump as well. What sort of "squeeze out" did your Loctite 574 have? I'm wondering if maybe I used too much for the girdle/pump/bs covers. I heard about someone having no oil pressure because of too much sealant. As you can see in my pics, it pushed out ~1mm around all mated surfaces.
Rebuilt the cam tower last night, incorporating a 1987 NA camshaft for that slight amount of extra duration. I got the cork rear seal with my LR rebuild kit... not too excited about it but I used a little Yamabond 4 on both sides. Would anyone recommend removing the cork gasket itself and using straight Yamabond? I don't want any BS from oil leaks for a long time. Also probably going to go back and stud those 3 bolt points for easier in-car access. Also getting a cam advance key for it later on, before I do the belts.
Something big is happening this weekend, stay tuned
Cork gasket goes on dry.
It should be good for a few years...and come on, it takes like 30 seconds to swap to a new one when you need to.
Good to know, I'll redo it before the new motor goes in.
Last weekend I bought an '86 951 that had an engine fire for $2500. Super clean car... it'll be the car that ends up getting this engine. The thread title is even more wrong now... whatever. That's good news, because the NA can stay an NA and I won't need to mess around with an intercooler under the nose panel and all that. It's running great - I do eventually want to supercharge it though (here we go with that again). Maybe after the 951 is up and running well, I think low boost would be cool and plenty safe on that engine and the MS controlling things.
With respect to the motor build, next step is oil cooler. I got an OPRV alignment tool for $20 shipped from a guy on ebay who makes polyurethane parts. Link. He makes one for '87+ as well. It seems to be the correct dimensions, I can't see it being a problem.
I got the cork rear seal with my LR rebuild kit... not too excited about it but I used a little Yamabond 4 on both sides. Would anyone recommend removing the cork gasket itself and using straight Yamabond?
I use Threebond 1211 and it's still going strong after 10 years. I think Yamabond is something similar? Throw the cork gasket out unless you enjoy changing these.
Dear Michael..I'll have to look tomorrow when I go down to the shop and check the squeeze out around the oil pump.. I must've missed this request the first time I read the thread. I'll pm you..it sounds OK though. 1mm isn't much unless if fouls something else...been a while since I did the engine..and also the shop. Been back there about 3 times in the last month..life gets in the way sometimes..Happy wife..happy life..
I use Threebond 1211 and it's still going strong after 10 years. I think Yamabond is something similar? Throw the cork gasket out unless you enjoy changing these.
That's funny...none of the ones I've ever changed since 2006 have leaked yet
Haven't been in the same time zone as this project lately, but I ordered some tools that should make the rest of assembly a piece of cake: a basic ring grinder, and an ARP tapered piston ring compressor made for 100mm bore. $50 for each, a lot less than I thought, and that ARP is a great tool from what I've read, lower risk of a ring breaking and ****ing a bore.
Next step for me will be to yank the pistons and rods out of the engine fire 951 and install them to this engine, along with the new con rod bearings and my LR piston rings.
Still been working on this engine in the background. I used a lot of the parts I was going to install on my NA, since I decided to do a lot of major services on it recently.
Currently, the new motor just needs:
- pistons and rods, getting them from my engine fire 951 engine
- oil pan (after pistons and rods go in of course)
- cylinder head, which I dropped off at my machine shop the other week
- belt drive components, have all of them in a box. I have to return the timing belt smooth roller though, I believe the one I got was for an early style water pump setup and is smaller than it should be.
- oil cooler, I sold the one I had in hand and pulled the one off my 951. It needs to be cleaned up.
An area I've invested in is replacing all of the hardware with new yellow zinc parts from Belmetric. Every nut and bolt was ordered except for the girdle nuts and washers, because those were installed beforehand and I don't want to upset the seal.
In the last few days, I installed the balance shaft oil seal collars/sleeves and the seals themselves. I struggled with fitting one of them (too tight) but a little love with fine grit sandpaper straightened that right out. Also installed the AOS. I had issues with the Victor Reinz O-rings. I took turns on the 3 bolts to evenly press the AOS legs into the block, and both of the seals tore...I chalked this up to the material of them. I ordered OE Porsche seals, which are a brighter red (VR part was more of a dull brick red) and they were noticeably less flexible. However, with a light smear of assembly lube, they went in with no issues and the sealing is good.
Front main seal w/ new oil pump gear also went in. The very early 83 cars have a different part - the engine in my '83 NA took a different part than this 82 engine. When I ordered all these rebuild parts, I let Lindsey Racing know what my plans were and they sent everything correctly, every seal fits and is correct for an 82 engine. I was pleasantly surprised because I thought for sure I'll have to re-order some of these seals, as the very early engines were a little different in places.
Nice to know! Keep plugging away! Persistence is what wins every time...maybe not the first time, but it usually overcomes the obstacles! Not to re-hash an older thread, but the squeeze out on my engine was minimal, at best. I think that I trimmed it off after everything had cured. But the amount shown shouldn't be a problem...Wonder if I used too little?
06-04-2016, 01:13 PM
