The silly little question thread ...
05-03-2016, 06:42 PM
#1141
Rennlist Member
wow - thats awesome - we have to find some time to get together - either down by you or up here by us - exchange notes...things up this way have gotten a little busy with the suspensions and now cutting up fantastic low miles 964s for pop out windows (which are looking pretty amazing btw)...current car is out for upholstery and i may be tearing into mine this week and working 24/7 to get it done before the other comes back...
fwiw - i have also been looking into making an up-rated c4 swaybar drop link, to have an alternative to hem that is a bit more robust. so that may be coming - but I've been slow on the design side. need to push through...
fwiw - i have also been looking into making an up-rated c4 swaybar drop link, to have an alternative to hem that is a bit more robust. so that may be coming - but I've been slow on the design side. need to push through...
05-03-2016, 08:44 PM
#1142
I have a buddy who makes tooling for rubber boots like this i should see if I can have him make it and has a source for having the boots made up. Same for tie rod ends and sway bar drop links. I have numerous parts that are good as new with busted boots. But nobody sells the boots separately. I have no doubt Porsche would prefer to sell you a new unit long before a cheap boot. I have tried the crazy glue approach on door seals and other rubber parts it is not as pretty as new but so far has held up without any failures under track conditions. At least it is a good temporary fix.
I've used Shoe Goo with success fixing other rubber parts like that. It's holding together a rubber seal on our Miele clothes washer in fact ! It stays more flexible than crazy glue does.
Cannot speak directly to fixing these specific parts with that approach, but worth a shot.
Cannot speak directly to fixing these specific parts with that approach, but worth a shot.
Are you talking about the clutch master boot?
I buy them separately. There is a part number. Though at the moment I forget where that is.
For the slave, the last ones I bought were ordered through ecs tuning. Can't remember where I bought the master...was a trick finding them, but they are out there.
In the meantime, I have purchased a tube of over door seal silicone. It's black and remains very flexible and is designed to fix split soft rubber seals. I'll be trying this as an in-situ fix on a door seal and a master cylinder boot soon and will report back.
I buy them separately. There is a part number. Though at the moment I forget where that is.
For the slave, the last ones I bought were ordered through ecs tuning. Can't remember where I bought the master...was a trick finding them, but they are out there.
In the meantime, I have purchased a tube of over door seal silicone. It's black and remains very flexible and is designed to fix split soft rubber seals. I'll be trying this as an in-situ fix on a door seal and a master cylinder boot soon and will report back.
05-17-2016, 04:36 AM
#1143
Help needed.
My engine mount has collapsed at the rear by the bumper.
Firstly is it something that i should replace both at the same time?
I see from here you can use either a 964 or the cheaper option for the same part is a 993 one.
Can you use a 996 one as they look the same on the web pages?
Also as i see the rs ones are much cheaper, do these effect the cars ride etc as i assume they are a hard rubber vs a oil filled?
Thank again for your help.
My engine mount has collapsed at the rear by the bumper.
Firstly is it something that i should replace both at the same time?
I see from here you can use either a 964 or the cheaper option for the same part is a 993 one.
Can you use a 996 one as they look the same on the web pages?
Also as i see the rs ones are much cheaper, do these effect the cars ride etc as i assume they are a hard rubber vs a oil filled?
Thank again for your help.
05-17-2016, 10:56 AM
#1144
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
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I would replace both engine mounts, if one has failed. My thinking is that the other is likely to fail soon. As for what mount to choose? I have installed both the original on my cab and the RS on my coupe. I've also installed Wevo's. Next time, I will use Wevo. They are less expensive than the factory oil filled and give a similar ride if you select the black (softer) material.
http://wevo.com/Products/ChassisProd...gineMounts.htm
http://wevo.com/Products/ChassisProd...gineMounts.htm
05-17-2016, 11:44 PM
#1145
Thanks for that, I saw these which is what got me thinking about different ones from factory ones, has anyone tried these?
from http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...375-049-09-OEM
Engine Mount, (Sport/RS Version)
Part #: 964-375-043-81-M253
(Be the First to Review!)
View Product Details | Related Products
Only 8 left in stock.
Ships Today!
$96.25
Quantity:
Uro Parts is an aftermarket supplier of Porsche.
Notes: For each mount, also Use (Qty.) (2) 901 305 311 00 washers, (1) 900 082 030 02 bolt, (2) 999 025 074 01 washers, (2) 999 025 134 02 washers. , This brand is a set of two mounts. (1) set per car is~required.
or these
Engine Mount (Sport/RS Version)
(2 customer reviews)
Part #: 964-375-043-81-M100
[ More Info ]
- 964 Carrera 2 (1990-94)
- 993 Carrera (1995-98)
(2 per car, sold individually)
Note: For each mount, also Use (Qty.) (2) 901 305 311 00 washers, (1) 900 082 030 02 bolt, (2) 999 025 074 01 washers, (2) 999 025 134 02 washers, This brand is sold as single pieces. (2) per car is~required.
05-17-2016, 11:56 PM
#1146
Race Car
I would either buy the set lee has listed in the for sale thread or get wevo w black bushings. Those uro RS mounts won't last. And they are a bit harsh imho. The car I'm driving now has them and I don't like them at all.
993 mounts if you want stock feel. Wevo black for an upgrade , but adds a bit of nvh.not much.
993 mounts if you want stock feel. Wevo black for an upgrade , but adds a bit of nvh.not much.
05-18-2016, 02:00 PM
#1147
Instructor
Sorry for the newbie questions.
1. Where does the original AMP go (location of where it should be installed)?
2. When turning on the car, what are the steps needed to enter the correct radio code (stock radio)
Thank you!
1. Where does the original AMP go (location of where it should be installed)?
2. When turning on the car, what are the steps needed to enter the correct radio code (stock radio)
Thank you!
Last edited by aceking4u; 05-18-2016 at 02:36 PM.
05-18-2016, 04:14 PM
#1148
1. The Amp is located under the passenger seat.
2. Not sure exactly what you're asking, but the radio will request that you enter a code when the car is started (the radio may need to be turned on). Use the corresponding numbered buttons to enter the code that should be listed in the manual.
05-18-2016, 05:03 PM
#1149
Instructor
I have seen it performed where you would need to hit the "1" button to continuously go from 1-9 for the first digit of the radio code.
My problem is getting to that part of screen is what im saying
And when I complete the 4 code...what button do i press to complete this transaction more or less...
I have the radio manual, but its not that clear to me =/
05-18-2016, 06:01 PM
#1150
When I turn on the car. The radio is powered on. The Screen reads - - - -
I have seen it performed where you would need to hit the "1" button to continuously go from 1-9 for the first digit of the radio code.
My problem is getting to that part of screen is what im saying
And when I complete the 4 code...what button do i press to complete this transaction more or less...
I have the radio manual, but its not that clear to me =/
I have seen it performed where you would need to hit the "1" button to continuously go from 1-9 for the first digit of the radio code.
My problem is getting to that part of screen is what im saying
And when I complete the 4 code...what button do i press to complete this transaction more or less...
I have the radio manual, but its not that clear to me =/
05-19-2016, 02:07 PM
#1152
05-26-2016, 07:53 PM
#1155
Banned
With the compressor disconnected, is there any way to check whether it's still good? How can I try to "engage" the clutch to see if it's working properly when it's disconnected?