Steel lug nuts
05-11-2016, 12:51 PM
#1
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Steel lug nuts
The PO of my 86.5 replaced the aluminum lug nuts with steel nuts. Good news is that he kept the original aluminum ones sealed in a baggy. What is the logic behind switching from aluminum to steel?
05-11-2016, 12:56 PM
#2
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1. Some feel the aluminum ones are not strong enough
2. Track use they are recommended for frequent tire changes
3. Open ended which is needed on cars fitting with factory spacers if the spacers are removed
4. Someone told them they were better
2. Track use they are recommended for frequent tire changes
3. Open ended which is needed on cars fitting with factory spacers if the spacers are removed
4. Someone told them they were better
05-11-2016, 01:21 PM
#3
Just a heads up for those that are thinking about buying them from e-bay.
I've seen several sets that were complete crap, would thread on wobbly or not at all. Watch out for cheap crap ones.
I've seen several sets that were complete crap, would thread on wobbly or not at all. Watch out for cheap crap ones.
05-11-2016, 01:48 PM
#4
I just bought a set from Amazon. Did not know they were steel. I tried a few and they seem to go on straight.
I ordered more from elsewhere that were more clearly labeled as aluminum, and oem. The original ones on the cars are Anodized black. The ones you can get from various sellers are more like powder coated.
I suppose that if you were going to run really sticky tires on the track and always be swapping, that steel may be a better plan.
What does nascrash use? At least on the passenger side since they don't run right ever.
I ordered more from elsewhere that were more clearly labeled as aluminum, and oem. The original ones on the cars are Anodized black. The ones you can get from various sellers are more like powder coated.
I suppose that if you were going to run really sticky tires on the track and always be swapping, that steel may be a better plan.
What does nascrash use? At least on the passenger side since they don't run right ever.
05-11-2016, 06:06 PM
#5
I've had an aluminum lug nut weld itself to the wheel and the top half snapped off when I tried removing it. It was a bitch, but I finally drilled the remaining piece off with a hole saw without damaging the wheel. Others have had similar experiences. That's one good reason PO may have switched to steel lug nuts.
Steve
89 S4 Auto
Steve
89 S4 Auto
05-11-2016, 06:16 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
I'm guessing the OP means aftermarket steel nuts that are closed and chromed. I've got those as the Al nuts got ugly and are pricey.
The open nuts are stronger for the track and allow the fit to be seen. All the studs should protrude equally. I also use them with rear spacers removed. The lgs are too long for the closed nuts so open nuts first and regular nuts going on second.
The open nuts are stronger for the track and allow the fit to be seen. All the studs should protrude equally. I also use them with rear spacers removed. The lgs are too long for the closed nuts so open nuts first and regular nuts going on second.
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05-11-2016, 09:26 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
The steel ones I have are identical to the original lugs. I would think if Porsche went to all the effort to make aluminum lugs, as unsprung weight is everything, obviously not for looks. Open one's i understand but just as stock looking replacement puzzles me. I'm sure they were not cheap
05-12-2016, 01:30 PM
#10
Bought a set of open steel from Roger, plus some spares for "Oh fudge..." moments and have never regretted it. My wheels are off/on several times a month during track season.
05-12-2016, 02:25 PM
#12
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I don't think I've ever seen a lug, wheel, or automobile manufacture state this should be done.
Per The Tire Rack:
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/codys-...a-star-pattern
I always take a wire brush to the threads when removing a lug nut. Clean and dry.....some mechanics apply a dab of motor but never anti-seize compound.
Per The Tire Rack:
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/codys-...a-star-pattern
Most wheel torque values are specified dry, so keep that anti-seize off the theads
05-12-2016, 09:31 PM
#13
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I don't think I've ever seen a lug, wheel, or automobile manufacture state this should be done.
Per The Tire Rack:
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/codys-...a-star-pattern
Per The Tire Rack:
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/codys-...a-star-pattern
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...7/MyTip792.htm
05-12-2016, 09:49 PM
#14
Per Porsche, use anti-seize on the threads - from an old discussion thread:
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...7/MyTip792.htm
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...7/MyTip792.htm
05-12-2016, 10:48 PM
#15
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WARNING: DO NOT USE OIL, GREASE, ANTI-SEIZE OR LUBRICANTS ON LUG NUTS WHEN CHANGING TIRES
Proper torque on lug nuts is very important for three reasons. One is to keep the lug nuts from loosening up and the wheel coming loose, another is to prevent distortion of the brake rotor behind the wheel, and a third is to prevent broken studs. A torque wrench should be used for final tightening of the lug nuts, and the nuts should always be torqued to the recommended specifications.
CAUTION: Torque specifications for lug nuts are always for CLEAN and DRY studs and lug nuts. That means no oil, no grease, no anti-seize and no lubricants of any kind. Any of these products will reduce the friction between the threads. This may seem like a good thing to prevent rust and frozen lug nuts, but the reduction in friction means a much higher percentage of the applied torque (up to 25% or more) will go toward loading the lug nuts. The end result may be brake rotor distortion or broken studs!
Wheel studs should be cleaned with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt BEFORE the wheels are mounted. If the lug nuts are heavily rusted or have damaged threads and won't turn easily on the studs, replace the lug nuts. The same goes for any wheel studs with damaged or badly corroded threads. And remember to mount the wheels DRY with nothing on the threads.
Proper torque on lug nuts is very important for three reasons. One is to keep the lug nuts from loosening up and the wheel coming loose, another is to prevent distortion of the brake rotor behind the wheel, and a third is to prevent broken studs. A torque wrench should be used for final tightening of the lug nuts, and the nuts should always be torqued to the recommended specifications.
CAUTION: Torque specifications for lug nuts are always for CLEAN and DRY studs and lug nuts. That means no oil, no grease, no anti-seize and no lubricants of any kind. Any of these products will reduce the friction between the threads. This may seem like a good thing to prevent rust and frozen lug nuts, but the reduction in friction means a much higher percentage of the applied torque (up to 25% or more) will go toward loading the lug nuts. The end result may be brake rotor distortion or broken studs!
Wheel studs should be cleaned with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt BEFORE the wheels are mounted. If the lug nuts are heavily rusted or have damaged threads and won't turn easily on the studs, replace the lug nuts. The same goes for any wheel studs with damaged or badly corroded threads. And remember to mount the wheels DRY with nothing on the threads.
Bottom line, anything that could possibly alter the tightening torque should never be used on wheel studs. The bulletin you linked to states: "Optimoly HT doesn't affect torque"......what is Optimoly HT has also been the subject of much debate:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...timoly-ht.html
Based on that thread, anyone using something other than Porsche specific Optimoly HT is using the wrong compound.
Through all the confusion, I'm going to stick with what I've been doing for 20+ years of working on Porsche's. Clean and dry threads, hand tighten until the nut is tight against the wheel then pull out the torque wrench.