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wait a sec... who buys tool / equipment based on how they LOOK? wtf/
Apparently, ALEV8 does! Fluff before function
These jacks, despite being made in the US, seem only appropriate for basic maintenence needs and will not support engine or trans drops. That fact alone, calls into question, price vs functionality.
Currently, when I lift my car onto stands, I lift it twice; once in the rear and once in the front, placing two stands during each lift. I believe this method introduces less torsional stress on the vehicle...
4 Esco jack stands @ $48 ea. @ Sears, are less than 2 jackpoints, and will support an engine or trans drop. The ESCO 3 Ton jackstand has a minimum reach of 13.2” and a maximum reach of 21.5”
I for one, would like to think/believe American Engineering is capable of producing a more functional, along with the convenience design of the Jackpoints.
Jackpoints are awesome. Period - best design out there. I have 2 pairs in the brushed finish with the extra height extender plates and when I use them on one of my 997s, I use Rennline support pucks (http://www.rennline.com/Jack-Plate-Lock-Type/productinfo/T02/). The Rennline pucks have an oval shaped threaded top piece and a rubber pad on top. You line up the ovals push them up and turn them 90 degrees and they lock Into the lifting points on the car and the rubber pad is the only thing contact the car lifting point and the car can't slide off the puck. By dumb luck or careful planning on either Rennline or Jackpoint the base of the metal puck is the exact same size as the ring cut into the top of the Jackpoint top plate so nothing can move and you get an extra 1-1.5 inches of height.
I have a 4-post lift that I use most of the time, but probably still use my Jackpoints 6-8 times a year.
For those of you not using Jackpoints but setting your car on stands, where are you lifting it from and where are you putting the stands? Are both of those locations approved lifting points or are you putting unnatural forces on your case halves or transmission castings?
Not with the Rennline puck
Useful with the lift too.
John, thanks for making such an excellent product for the no-compromises DIY crowd.
If I had a 4 point lift I may not even have the need for any jack stands. The jack points are a specialized tool for you. But if you actually have to crawl under the car 12 inches ain't gonna cut it.
If I had a 4 point lift I may not even have the need for any jack stands. The jack points are a specialized tool for you. But if you actually have to crawl under the car 12 inches ain't gonna cut it.
I'll have to stack my extended height plates and the Rennline pucks to see what the actual height I can achieve is, but I think it's higher than 12". I know others that have used the Jackpoints for a full exhaust install (headers through tips), coils and plugs, waterpump and thermostat, etc. and some of these were done with only the rear in the air - I believe some of those DIYs are actually linked in the 997 DIY Sticky and include photos of the cars up on the Jackpoints.
With the 4-post, I use mine primarily for wheel and brake work when something else is already on the lift.
I too, who have done way too many major projects to count, think the height on these is pretty low. Even doing something like taking wheels off, I raise my lift higher than these to keep from being too bent over.
Jackpoints are awesome. Period - best design out there. I have 2 pairs in the brushed finish with the extra height extender plates and when I use them on one of my 997s, I use Rennline support pucks (http://www.rennline.com/Jack-Plate-L...oductinfo/T02/). The Rennline pucks have an oval shaped threaded top piece and a rubber pad on top. You line up the ovals push them up and turn them 90 degrees and they lock Into the lifting points on the car and the rubber pad is the only thing contact the car lifting point and the car can't slide off the puck. By dumb luck or careful planning on either Rennline or Jackpoint the base of the metal puck is the exact same size as the ring cut into the top of the Jackpoint top plate so nothing can move and you get an extra 1-1.5 inches of height.
I have a 4-post lift that I use most of the time, but probably still use my Jackpoints 6-8 times a year.
For those of you not using Jackpoints but setting your car on stands, where are you lifting it from and where are you putting the stands? Are both of those locations approved lifting points or are you putting unnatural forces on your case halves or transmission castings?
Not with the Rennline puck
Useful with the lift too.
John, thanks for making such an excellent product for the no-compromises DIY crowd.
My Dad is in the market for a 4-post lift...what lift are you using? Are you really able to remove the engine thru the gap in the center on that thing?
My Dad is in the market for a 4-post lift...what lift are you using? Are you really able to remove the engine thru the gap in the center on that thing?
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's a Backyard Buddy lift with a 7000lb rating
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's a Backyard Buddy lift with a 7000lb rating
Correct, it's a BB, but a bit custom. It uses the taller posts of their Extended height lift and has an extra set of ramps installed as well. The purpose of these 2 things is so that it goes up high enough in the summer time when I just store my empty boat trailer on it where I can walk under it without ducking and park either my truck or SUV under it. The extra ramps are so it's wide enough for my boat trailer but narrow enough for my 914, and yes, the inside clearance is just wide enough where I can drop the 914 engine out through it as you saw in the previous photo. I also have a pair of pneumatic bridge jacks so I can put a car on the lift, then put it in the air for brake & suspension work.
My ceiling is 11'4" and I have Jackshaft openers on both doors with tracks up tight to the ceiling. It's the perfect lift for everything I need to do with it and has the caster kit so I can move it within the garage, which I do twice a year. In the winter it's on the side next to the workbench since the boat is on the trailer next to it, but moves over to the other side in the summer as it's easier to get the trailer onto it when backing down the driveway since it opens up the angle.
Excellent info, thank you! We have a few 914's, so knowing the engine drop can fit between the tracks is good. Also agree the center jacks are a must have, so those are on the list. Did you have to get extended ramps for ground clearance?
Excellent info, thank you! We have a few 914's, so knowing the engine drop can fit between the tracks is good. Also agree the center jacks are a must have, so those are on the list. Did you have to get extended ramps for ground clearance?
I believe I'm using the standard approach ramps and clearance on all my cars is fine. The RUF 997 actually has a Cargraphic AirLift in the front so I inflate that before driving on, but both the 914 and 928 make it up fine. The 914 and 911s I usually back on since my drain pan is in the back and the 928 usually drives on forwards.
I had initially ordered the lighter composite ramps but didn't like the way they left a gap and didn't seem very durable (though they were very light) so returned those for standard metal ramps.
If you have any other lift questions, feel free to e-mail me at petza914@gmail.com so we don't tie up this Jackpoint thread. Thanks.
As 4 post lifts go - I too like the design of the "Buddy". I have an early version made in Kansas by Autolifters (now gone) but same design. Yes, I have a 4 post lift. I had one for years before inventing the Jackpoint jack stand. I didn't see the stands as a substitute for my lift for all purposes. However, most lifts don't transport easily to the track. Even at home I still use the stands for wheel, suspension, quick fluid changes, exhaust, and brake work. I like the lift, but I like not having to work around the lift when I don't need to be fully under car. For lots of jobs the stands are out of the way.
That said - I don't take lightly the expense of having either (a lift or Jackpoints) or both. I'm also a guy who damaged his very first car (back in the '70's) trying to lift it in the wrong place. And almost dropped a car when a cheap jack twisted at the track. I lifted cars for years after that first mistake and never had a problem, but I was never comfortable that the car would stay put if I had to push, pull, or climb inside or under the car. My solution is only one of many. I wish it were cheap enough that guys could buy them as only one of many. Imagine having to work with only 1 screwdriver option.
For what it's worth, I welcome the criticisms. The stand we currently sell is actually the 5th version from the original design. You can't improve if nobody is willing to point out what's wrong - so I hear the guys who don't like them AND listen. There is a design for an adjustable - but I'm alert to price sensitivity on the current product. The adjustable one is quite a bit more expensive to make. BTW - we were approached by an offshore company wanting to make an inexpensive steel version under a different name. Their test products were failing at under 1000 lbs. Making the stands strong wasn't as simple as it first appeared. Thanks for the comments - good and bad. I appreciate your willingness to take time to comment at all. We continue to work on improvements and cost savings.
I absolutely love the security, ease of use, strength and design of the Jackpoint Jackstands. It's perfect for the simple maintenance jobs I'm capable of doing on my cars.
Just used them yesterday for a Spring cleaning and check-up.
04-26-2016, 04:47 PM
Fluff before function 
