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I have the large c-type compressor that a few people mentioned in this thread. Worked pretty well for me, just have to be careful it doesn't slide around while compressing. Only takes a few mins per valve.
Since you are in Austin you could borrow mine if you want.
I have the large c-type compressor that a few people mentioned in this thread. Worked pretty well for me, just have to be careful it doesn't slide around while compressing. Only takes a few mins per valve.
Since you are in Austin you could borrow mine if you want.
HUGE shout out to Keith (afx) for lending me his compressor and showing me his beautiful 951!
I'm feeling a bit ignorant though, there is NO way I can get enough leverage with the C-clamp type tool everyone posted to even budge a spring. Our intake manifolds are at an odd angle and so I can't rest the head on the mating surface; I'm having to balance it so I can get the tool on the valve face and around the spring. I can't get anywhere near enough leverage. The handle is short and I can't budge the springs even 1mm.
Am I doing something wrong? This sounds ridiculous but can someone give me some tips of better yet post a video of them removing the springs? For giggles I also tried the large socket and hammer method that I have successfully used on other cars, the springs didn't even budge. The cheap autozone compressor I tried before compressed the outer spring just fine, so it isn't like they are frozen.
Dear Doug: My machine shop guy did it with a c-compressor no pblm..His may have had a longer handle though. He even does diesel heads with it. you may have to use a cheater on the handle..about 12 " ought to do it. Perhaps you could c-clamp a breaker bar to the handle for more leverage. Some of the handles are stamped heavy metal..and the bar could fit up inside the curve of the handle, perhaps. Did you give the valve hats a good rap with a hammer and socket before you started to break everything loose? that can help too to get any crud away from the valve stems and keepers. just some thoughts...
I used a loaner from Advance Auto Parts. They have the large C clamp type. The head that interfaces with the spring hats is kind of large, so you have to make sure you orient the clamp just right so that you don't mar the head when you compress the spring. It looks like they don't list it as one of their loaner tools on the website, but mine had it.
a block of wood that fits inside the cc, a hammer, and a socket big enough to fit around the top valve spring hat with an extension..a blow with a hammer and the wood block on the underside against the valve... presto. aka how the old wizards did it before fancy tooling. just make sure you have the head on a soft top bench or more wood.
I've used a large C-clamp as well. I welded a 20mm tube to one end with a window cut out so I can access the valve keepers. Really handy when re-assembling.
Having used the quicker lever-based tools, I prefer this one, especially when re-assembling. You don't have to have one hand on the lever keeping the spring compressed while you fiddle with the keepers one-handed.
I tried using a pvc coupling on my c-clamp. (fisrt pic) Got two off pretty easy. As I was struggling to get the retainers off through the window of the pvc on the third valve, my brain finally kicked in and realized this pvc could shatter any second. So I backed off and started looking for other options. I tried a smaller ratchet style, second pic....no dice....too hard to use and tool was straining.
A mechanic friend gave me two "vintage" ones to try were both awesome. Pretty much effortless and will make installation a breeze. You can find the more modern one on ebay for $50 to $70.
I prefered the modern one, but had to use the old rusted one just because...after a little wd40, worked like butter.
12-30-2015, 11:38 PM
