That explains the rattle then!!

 

Maybe but maybe not. The bearing has seals so it can act as a crude form of filter for a little while. I could be a combination of things too, scored cylinders, worn intermediate shaft bearing, failing lifters and so on. Best would be to no drive it anymore. I hate seeing a salvageable engine driven to death.

 

but you have no idea when that death will happen, could happen 100k down the road.

 

im pretty sure i saw chunks of stuff in his oil once he dumped it out ,,, that means chunks of metal are free flowing through the engine no ?

 

could be from the repair work that was just done.

 

If you are doomed. Those cards have been played.
Perhaps a little investigating? A scope of the cylinders?
I would certainly also put the selling dealer on notice. I understand the time frame and the provincial distance, but you have nothing to lose.
or
Change the oil, new filter. Dump it again in 500 more kms? Check it again.
If I get terminal news, I'd want a second opinion.

 

thats what I'd do

 

That's my plan, I will be changing oil and dropping pan (not in that order). I'm waiting to hear back from a local recommended guy as I would like to minimise distance driven and he is super super local (although seems to be having some kind of family issues so struggling to get in touch).

I did buy an inspection camera to check the bores, but it was useless (great straight onto the piston, no good at 45 degrees for the wall of the bores).

There is quite a lot of metal in the filter approx 50% Ferrous V's non Ferrous based on a quick check with a fridge magnet (Scientific I know).

I've really put no KM's on the car since I bought it, but really not sure what I can do about the supplying dealer.

The ticking is new, but I have no idea if metal shavings are pre/post at this point in time.

Car starts and seems to run fine. (Based on limited running on axle stands) since the noise started, and still seems to be coming from bank 1/cylinder 1

I have also contacted Whale Tail and he is discussing rebuild with his trusted new found Porsche Tech.

 

Ummm... why not do a compression test and leak down test to determine if you have any valve and/or piston ring issues and/or block scoring?? If these values come out suspect, then you have enough ammunition to decide what to do next.

If your oil pressure is good, compression is good, and leak down test is good, just drive it.

With your oil getting that dirty that quick, I would strongly suspect that you have a scored block. The scoring prevents the sealing ring from holding back the exhaust, so the exhaust leaks into the crank case and makes the oil dirty very quickly. You can also usually smell the burnt hydrocarbons in the oil.

Driving with a scored block isn't the end of the world... but it can lead to catastrophic engine failure depending on where the scoring is...

Regardless, with that much metal in the oil, you need a new engine. Those bronze looking bits are bearings near the end of life. My bet is that it will pack up or severely knock very soon...

You need a new engine. Sorry.

 

Keep a current oil sample for your files and history.
Enough for a few test... if you were to send it out for analysis.

 

I have the contents of the filter safely stored in a Tropicana bottle, along with the filter so I can show to whoever I end up taking the car to for my second opinion.

Looking to pull pan this weekend. May go with thicker oil. See a few builders recommend 20W50?

I checked back and I have driven less than 1000km's from purchase!! Did send the garage an email, but I really doubt I have any recourse against them, but worth a try.

 

5W40 is fine, cold weather is coming.

 

Change oil trade in at your local Nissan dealership -- Karma complete!!

 

Engines shed a lot of metal if major work has been done to them. As suggested, change the oil and check it again in 500-1000km. I would even just put regular 10w30 in it with a new filter and run it for 10 minutes to "flush out" the engine. Then, chamge the oil and filter to the proper one and do the 500-1000km interval.

 

Only if the filter is clocged and bypassing.