Winter Storage
#1
Winter Storage
Bought a 997 c4GTS this year. I will be putting her away before the salt starts hitting the roads. I am planning on storing her in my garage.
Does anyone get a car cover? I have heard a trickle charger is needed. Can that be avoided by periodically starting the car? Also I have heard from my neighbour that problems could occur with the tires if the car is left standing too long.
As I am new to Porsche, I was hoping that people could pass along any tips or concerns.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone get a car cover? I have heard a trickle charger is needed. Can that be avoided by periodically starting the car? Also I have heard from my neighbour that problems could occur with the tires if the car is left standing too long.
As I am new to Porsche, I was hoping that people could pass along any tips or concerns.
Thanks in advance.
#2
IMHO, no car cover unless in climate controlled garage/building. If not climate controlled, park over plastic vapour barrier and no car cover.
Yes to trickle charging, or disconnect/remove battery. No do not start car unless you plan on giving it a lengthy drive.
Inflate tires to maximum allowed pressure. On foam if you can to cushion the contact patch.
Change the engine oil right before storage, removes acids/corrosives from the oil/engine. Brake fluid bleed is a good plan too, gets water 'logged' fluid out and away from calipers/pistons/fittings.
Forgot fuel tank full, preferably with Shell (no ethanol) and fuel stabilizer as well.
Cheers,
Yes to trickle charging, or disconnect/remove battery. No do not start car unless you plan on giving it a lengthy drive.
Inflate tires to maximum allowed pressure. On foam if you can to cushion the contact patch.
Change the engine oil right before storage, removes acids/corrosives from the oil/engine. Brake fluid bleed is a good plan too, gets water 'logged' fluid out and away from calipers/pistons/fittings.
Forgot fuel tank full, preferably with Shell (no ethanol) and fuel stabilizer as well.
Cheers,
Last edited by 993GT; 10-24-2015 at 11:51 AM. Reason: fuel
#3
All maintenance up to date.
Full Consours, wheels off, detail (optional on how far/much you do, but car should at least be clean/washed)
Stabilize fuel, tank full.
Inflate tires to 55-58 PSI.
Desiccant in cabin (optional).
Battery maintainer.
Car in neutral, wheels chocked, mover car by hand monthly, few inches, further protection against flat spotting (optional).
Car cover.
Suspend some insurance coverage, save $$, if allowable in your area.
Secure car keys to safe location.
Then:
Don't start car till Spring.
Go on long drive.
Buy fresh fuel.
Full Consours, wheels off, detail (optional on how far/much you do, but car should at least be clean/washed)
Stabilize fuel, tank full.
Inflate tires to 55-58 PSI.
Desiccant in cabin (optional).
Battery maintainer.
Car in neutral, wheels chocked, mover car by hand monthly, few inches, further protection against flat spotting (optional).
Car cover.
Suspend some insurance coverage, save $$, if allowable in your area.
Secure car keys to safe location.
Then:
Don't start car till Spring.
Go on long drive.
Buy fresh fuel.
#4
What I've done for years:
Oil change
Wash car, car cover
Full tank with stabilizer
In gear, no parking brake (it can seize on - ask me how I know)
Don't start it, use a battery tender, one that shuts off after a full charge and not one that continuously charges
Some people put bags of silica inside to absorb moisture but I've never had a problem
If concerned about mice, put traps down/moth *****/steel wool in tailpipes etc
Tire pressure to max is good idea but I don't do it.
Oil change
Wash car, car cover
Full tank with stabilizer
In gear, no parking brake (it can seize on - ask me how I know)
Don't start it, use a battery tender, one that shuts off after a full charge and not one that continuously charges
Some people put bags of silica inside to absorb moisture but I've never had a problem
If concerned about mice, put traps down/moth *****/steel wool in tailpipes etc
Tire pressure to max is good idea but I don't do it.
#6
You lose the radio code if you remove the battery, you also need to drive the car for some time before the OBD-II will be ready for any plug-in emission test procedure.
Most people will use battery-tender device to keep the battery topped up, unless there is no plug in such as in underground parking.
Most people will use battery-tender device to keep the battery topped up, unless there is no plug in such as in underground parking.
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#9
You are right with the 997 as I missed that part.
My 996 requires radio code, in fact it was the only "documentation" the seller (original owner) had for me, but only because he had changed battery a couple of months prior so needed to go to the dealer to get the code, there were NO other documentations what-so-ever, not even any owner's manuals.......
My 996 requires radio code, in fact it was the only "documentation" the seller (original owner) had for me, but only because he had changed battery a couple of months prior so needed to go to the dealer to get the code, there were NO other documentations what-so-ever, not even any owner's manuals.......
#10
Hey guys
I am also at my first time winterizing, I have the Tequipment (CteK) trickle charger with the round cigarette plug.
Does it make a difference that this is plugged in the cigarette lighter versus the 12v adaptor on the passenger side ?
Just in case ( I have a 2011 Boxster S)
I am also at my first time winterizing, I have the Tequipment (CteK) trickle charger with the round cigarette plug.
Does it make a difference that this is plugged in the cigarette lighter versus the 12v adaptor on the passenger side ?
Just in case ( I have a 2011 Boxster S)
#11
In particular, this applies to larger boats where removing battery banks that weigh hundreds of pounds is impractical. I've got a half-dozen cars and other pieces of equipment that get winterized/summerized this way, year after year for >40 years.
On the Porsche, it does mean you have to use the frunk release jumper in the fuse panel to release the frunk in the spring. This takes but a few minutes.
#13
2003+ went to MOST and does not require a code
You are right with the 997 as I missed that part.
My 996 requires radio code, in fact it was the only "documentation" the seller (original owner) had for me, but only because he had changed battery a couple of months prior so needed to go to the dealer to get the code, there were NO other documentations what-so-ever, not even any owner's manuals.......
My 996 requires radio code, in fact it was the only "documentation" the seller (original owner) had for me, but only because he had changed battery a couple of months prior so needed to go to the dealer to get the code, there were NO other documentations what-so-ever, not even any owner's manuals.......