2.7l motor gone bad
06-06-2013, 03:31 PM
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2.7l motor gone bad
So I have a 77 911s with a 2.7l motor thats seen better days. Cylinders leaking through head gaskets badly, smokes and other stuff.
The decision
1. Get a rebuilt 3.0l motor that I've been quoted at $9,500.00 from a spot in Ontario.
2. Buy a used 3.2l with all the bits for $7,500.00 from a wrecker in Ontario
3. Is it worth rebuilding the 2.7? Can I do it cheaper and get good results?
I like the simplicity of just putting in the 3.0l and adding my existing CIS Fuel Injection and at a later date I would like to add PMO Carbs. 3.2l I have to change the wiring and then deal with a more complicated fuel injection system.
Any help is very appreciated.
The decision
1. Get a rebuilt 3.0l motor that I've been quoted at $9,500.00 from a spot in Ontario.
2. Buy a used 3.2l with all the bits for $7,500.00 from a wrecker in Ontario
3. Is it worth rebuilding the 2.7? Can I do it cheaper and get good results?
I like the simplicity of just putting in the 3.0l and adding my existing CIS Fuel Injection and at a later date I would like to add PMO Carbs. 3.2l I have to change the wiring and then deal with a more complicated fuel injection system.
Any help is very appreciated.
06-06-2013, 03:52 PM
#2
Race Car
I was in a similar state 2 years ago - original 2.4L engine smoking pretty badly, down on power. I knew it was time for a rebuild. I bought a 3.0L from a 1982 SC from a guy in Seattle. I had a compression/leakdown test done on it before it was removed from the car (the owner had bought a 3.3 turbo or something to replace it and hadn't swapped them yet). The numbers were good - definitely not brand new, but what you'd expect from a healthy engine with over 100k miles on it. I paid $3200 + $600 shipping. The engine came with distributor and wiring, but no intake.
The plan is to rebuild my engine when I have time (read: kids in high school, so not for another 10 years
). The 3.0L should get me through till then.
I looked into all my options extensively. I opted against the 3.2L because it requires significantly more work to get it to work with carburetors, plus I would've almost certainly needed additional cooling. I couldn't see doing it properly for under $10k. The 3.0 option was much cheaper and easier. I reused my webers and my wiring and it really wasn't all that difficult.
A 3.0L rebuilt at $9500 is not cheap - look in the states. When I was looking, rebuilt was $5-6000.
If the 3.2 from the wrecker in Ontario is nineapart, I would be VERY careful. I wouldn't buy a door handle from him, let alone an engine.
It's definitely worth rebuilding the 2.7, especially if originality matters to you (it didn't to me, but the 2.4 is the original #s matching engine, so I did decide to keep it - it's in a corner of my garage, and my wife complains about it
). You can hotrod it a bit too and get more power out of it.
The plan is to rebuild my engine when I have time (read: kids in high school, so not for another 10 years
). The 3.0L should get me through till then.I looked into all my options extensively. I opted against the 3.2L because it requires significantly more work to get it to work with carburetors, plus I would've almost certainly needed additional cooling. I couldn't see doing it properly for under $10k. The 3.0 option was much cheaper and easier. I reused my webers and my wiring and it really wasn't all that difficult.
A 3.0L rebuilt at $9500 is not cheap - look in the states. When I was looking, rebuilt was $5-6000.
If the 3.2 from the wrecker in Ontario is nineapart, I would be VERY careful. I wouldn't buy a door handle from him, let alone an engine.
It's definitely worth rebuilding the 2.7, especially if originality matters to you (it didn't to me, but the 2.4 is the original #s matching engine, so I did decide to keep it - it's in a corner of my garage, and my wife complains about it
). You can hotrod it a bit too and get more power out of it.
06-06-2013, 04:16 PM
#3
I was in a similar state 2 years ago - original 2.4L engine smoking pretty badly, down on power. I knew it was time for a rebuild. I bought a 3.0L from a 1982 SC from a guy in Seattle. I had a compression/leakdown test done on it before it was removed from the car (the owner had bought a 3.3 turbo or something to replace it and hadn't swapped them yet). The numbers were good - definitely not brand new, but what you'd expect from a healthy engine with over 100k miles on it. I paid $3200 + $600 shipping. The engine came with distributor and wiring, but no intake.
The plan is to rebuild my engine when I have time (read: kids in high school, so not for another 10 years ). The 3.0L should get me through till then.
I looked into all my options extensively. I opted against the 3.2L because it requires significantly more work to get it to work with carburetors, plus I would've almost certainly needed additional cooling. I couldn't see doing it properly for under $10k. The 3.0 option was much cheaper and easier. I reused my webers and my wiring and it really wasn't all that difficult.
A 3.0L rebuilt at $9500 is not cheap - look in the states. When I was looking, rebuilt was $5-6000.
If the 3.2 from the wrecker in Ontario is nineapart, I would be VERY careful. I wouldn't buy a door handle from him, let alone an engine.
It's definitely worth rebuilding the 2.7, especially if originality matters to you (it didn't to me, but the 2.4 is the original #s matching engine, so I did decide to keep it - it's in a corner of my garage, and my wife complains about it ). You can hotrod it a bit too and get more power out of it.
The plan is to rebuild my engine when I have time (read: kids in high school, so not for another 10 years
). The 3.0L should get me through till then.I looked into all my options extensively. I opted against the 3.2L because it requires significantly more work to get it to work with carburetors, plus I would've almost certainly needed additional cooling. I couldn't see doing it properly for under $10k. The 3.0 option was much cheaper and easier. I reused my webers and my wiring and it really wasn't all that difficult.
A 3.0L rebuilt at $9500 is not cheap - look in the states. When I was looking, rebuilt was $5-6000.
If the 3.2 from the wrecker in Ontario is nineapart, I would be VERY careful. I wouldn't buy a door handle from him, let alone an engine.
It's definitely worth rebuilding the 2.7, especially if originality matters to you (it didn't to me, but the 2.4 is the original #s matching engine, so I did decide to keep it - it's in a corner of my garage, and my wife complains about it
). You can hotrod it a bit too and get more power out of it.
06-06-2013, 04:46 PM
#4
Race Car
He sells junk and he's an a$$hole. How's that for a start?
Years ago I bought a fuel pump from him. I specifically stated, carburetor pump. They look the same, so I asked him to verify part #s. I installed it, assuming it was correct, and it shot gasoline through the carburetors, through the engine and all over my garage floor. MFI is 25 psi or something, carburetor pump is 4psi. He didn't want to exchange it, swore it came off a car with carburetors. I said then send me the pressure regulator that must be installed with it. After arguing, he exchanged it for a Carter pump (made for american cars). No mounting bracket, no wiring harness, nothing. After trying for ages to get it to work I had the car towed into Mantis where they installed a proper pump. I decided to give him another chance and bought a muffler from him. Turned out it was rusted out and full of holes. Scrap metal. When I called him on it he yelled at me like it was my fault.
I'm done with Frank, forever. I suspect he moved and changed names because he was sued.
Years ago I bought a fuel pump from him. I specifically stated, carburetor pump. They look the same, so I asked him to verify part #s. I installed it, assuming it was correct, and it shot gasoline through the carburetors, through the engine and all over my garage floor. MFI is 25 psi or something, carburetor pump is 4psi. He didn't want to exchange it, swore it came off a car with carburetors. I said then send me the pressure regulator that must be installed with it. After arguing, he exchanged it for a Carter pump (made for american cars). No mounting bracket, no wiring harness, nothing. After trying for ages to get it to work I had the car towed into Mantis where they installed a proper pump. I decided to give him another chance and bought a muffler from him. Turned out it was rusted out and full of holes. Scrap metal. When I called him on it he yelled at me like it was my fault.
I'm done with Frank, forever. I suspect he moved and changed names because he was sued.
06-06-2013, 09:27 PM
#6
Race Car
Any of the good shops. Where are you? A lot depends on that. Shipping a motor between provinces can easily add $1000 to your bill. What about DIY? A refresh with just seals and whatnot can be done for about $2000 in your garage, if you have the time.
Trending Topics
06-06-2013, 10:01 PM
#8
FYI I shipped a 928 transaxle out to SK by freight last month. It cost me $50 to build the crate and $160 to ship and it was there in less then a week.
And that thing was freaking heavy.
I can dig up the shipping info if you need it. This was my crate, well over 200lbs.
And that thing was freaking heavy.
I can dig up the shipping info if you need it. This was my crate, well over 200lbs.
06-10-2013, 07:08 PM
#9
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK,
Ongoing saga continues.
Spoke to the re-builder in Ontario and pretty well got a deal made at $9,250.00 shipped to my door. Found a motor with South Florida Dismantlers and can get the same deal shipped to my door for $7,383.00. Motor from Ontario is newly re-built while the one in Florida has 8000 miles on it. The Florida offer came late this afternoon. I'm one for keeping my word but $2,000.00 is a lot of money.
Being new to the Porsche world give me your thoughts?
Ongoing saga continues.
Spoke to the re-builder in Ontario and pretty well got a deal made at $9,250.00 shipped to my door. Found a motor with South Florida Dismantlers and can get the same deal shipped to my door for $7,383.00. Motor from Ontario is newly re-built while the one in Florida has 8000 miles on it. The Florida offer came late this afternoon. I'm one for keeping my word but $2,000.00 is a lot of money.
Being new to the Porsche world give me your thoughts?
06-10-2013, 07:11 PM
#10
Race Car
Florida motor. At the end of the day, it's not just $2k, but you have 2 motors. Your old one is worth at least $1000 as a core, more if you part it out.
06-10-2013, 07:13 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Who is the Ontario engine supplier?
06-10-2013, 07:26 PM
#12
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can offer you the motor with factory heat exchangers, a used distributor,3 liter fly wheel ,very nice used factory alternator housing ( refinished in Guards Red ) , New EPS Brand 11 Blade Fan and new intake and exhaust seals for $6000.
A New Permatune ignition box = $498
New Factory Clutch Disk Sachs 915-116-011-22 = $260
Shipping door to door is $625
That's what I'm being offered from the Florida Supplier
Total inc shipping. $7383
A New Permatune ignition box = $498
New Factory Clutch Disk Sachs 915-116-011-22 = $260
Shipping door to door is $625
That's what I'm being offered from the Florida Supplier
Total inc shipping. $7383
06-10-2013, 08:01 PM
#14
Race Car
Ok, I'm a bit confused. Is the Florida engine rebuilt? If not, $2000 more for a zero-mileage rebuilt motor is a WAY better option, IMO. Having the exhaust is a nice bonus, but if it's not rebuilt who knows how long you'll get out of it. Does it have compression and leakdown #s?