Coolant troubles - Looks like a bad leak
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Coolant troubles - Looks like a bad leak
Driving home and started to see some white smoke coming out from the decklid at the stop light. Smell like coolant burning (sweet smell). Then started to hear a whistling sound when the car slows down. Got home and coolant started leasking from the driver side rear next to the exhuast tip. No oil just coolant.
Could this be the tank or hose? Coolant light and temp guage was fine when driving. But looks like the leak got really bad when I got home.
How do I get my car to the garage with the leak for repair?
HELP!
Could this be the tank or hose? Coolant light and temp guage was fine when driving. But looks like the leak got really bad when I got home.
How do I get my car to the garage with the leak for repair?
HELP!
#2
Burning Brakes
Driving home and started to see some white smoke coming out from the decklid at the stop light. Smell like coolant burning (sweet smell). Then started to hear a whistling sound when the car slows down. Got home and coolant started leasking from the driver side rear next to the exhuast tip. No oil just coolant.
Could this be the tank or hose? Coolant light and temp guage was fine when driving. But looks like the leak got really bad when I got home.
How do I get my car to the garage with the leak for repair?
HELP!
Could this be the tank or hose? Coolant light and temp guage was fine when driving. But looks like the leak got really bad when I got home.
How do I get my car to the garage with the leak for repair?
HELP!
I dunno if I'd risk driving it, especially if you get into some traffic or something.
Do you have CAA? If not, I have a bunch of tows left on mine, so if my Friday and weekend are open, I might be able to help you with a flatbed.
#3
Drifting
Check the expansion tank for a split and or if the cap is damaged. These two items have a habit of going bad. The cap was subject to a recall a few years back. In hot weather the cap's sometimes failed to open to allow an over pressure situation to release. When the cap fails to open up the pressure can split the plastic tank - normally on the seams. If it's leaking, it's going to run down over the cans and pipes causing the smoke you saw when you came to a stop. It's easy to spot if you get under the car with a light. There are also coolant pipes (rubber) that may have a split or loose clip. If it were a major leak you wouldn't have made it home and you'd be looking at a CELL glowing in your face...
Check the levels in the tank - I bet it's low.
If your not that far away from a dealer or P Car Indy (5km-10km) - you can always top it off (with coolant - not water) and drive it over at night when the traffic is light and it's cooler with the heater full bore to suck some of the heat away.
Check the levels in the tank - I bet it's low.
If your not that far away from a dealer or P Car Indy (5km-10km) - you can always top it off (with coolant - not water) and drive it over at night when the traffic is light and it's cooler with the heater full bore to suck some of the heat away.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did a search on coolant leaks and the tank is a common problem. Does it make a whistling sound when it is cracks? It started to leak bad when I got home after turning off engine in garage. What is the cost to replace?
James, really appreciate your offer. I may just have to take you up on it.
James, really appreciate your offer. I may just have to take you up on it.
#6
Drifting
I recall having a split in a rad hose in another car years back and was faced with pulling over and steaming all the coolant away or driving in the slow lane of a 400 series highway with my 4 ways on doing 80KM and the windows all open and the heater on full blast in mid summer. You don't know hot until you try this in 25C temps and then put the heat on! Felt like I was training for a run in a closed cockpit P1 car at LeMans.
I even timed my exit on the off ramp so I got to the light when it was green and did like wise for the next 4 lights to get it to a service center I had dealt with before. The trick was never stop moving or turn the car off.
As far as cost? It's a P car! I think someone in the 996 forum said it's a two hour job.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
@#$@!#!
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#8
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Depends how bad the leak is when the pressrue is releived form the system. If it's sligh, you can open the rad cap 1/4 turn to releive the pressure. If needed, top up the with coolant or distilled water and drive it to the garage. If the leak is bad with the cap/ system de pressurized, tow it.
#14
Drifting
Just an FYI - Found this on another site related to coolant leaks on 986/996's
Since first introduced, the cap has been redesigned. The old style (left) can vent coolant at a lower temp/pressure than specified after some years of use. The new version (right) has been revised and will last many more years without dumping the coolant. New part number should be 996 106 447 01 and lists for $13.00 (2005 price)
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Took it to autowerks, close by to my place.
Water pump $450 and labour - total $950
Is that a good deal?
I could have bought the pump from Suncoast for $250 but didn't want to wait.
Also found water pumps on eBay ranging from $95 - $365 brand new OEM...WTF?
Water pump $450 and labour - total $950
Is that a good deal?
I could have bought the pump from Suncoast for $250 but didn't want to wait.
Also found water pumps on eBay ranging from $95 - $365 brand new OEM...WTF?