Heat in the garage
01-04-2010, 02:13 AM
#31
Burning Brakes
I thought on this, the coldest day of the year, it might be a good test of the heater. I gave it a half hour and opened the big door to **cough cough* exhaust the fumes and within 5 minutes it was +15. Time to get the tank re-charged though as I'm seeing a noticeable drop in pressure and flame size.
they are specially imported from Jamaica.
01-04-2010, 12:16 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carbon monoxide is odorless so you can't smell it. It'll just silently kill off neurons and if given a chance, it'll kill you. In the meantime if you're feeling super smart and can do anything, that'll probably mean you've killed off a ton of brain cells and can now start a career in politics. 
01-04-2010, 02:20 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Carbon monoxide is odorless so you can't smell it. It'll just silently kill off neurons and if given a chance, it'll kill you. In the meantime if you're feeling super smart and can do anything, that'll probably mean you've killed off a ton of brain cells and can now start a career in politics.
The one I bought and had for a weekend before returning it stated that it needed a square foot of venting to the outside for every X thousand of BTUs. That meant my garage door had to be open by about an inch. Wonderful...I was heating plant earth, especially when the wind blew!
It hardly heated up the place without giving me one hell of a splitting headache. CO has a nasty habit of attaching itself to your cells.
I'm buying a Mr. Heater Big Maxx or something like it when the time comes.
01-04-2010, 02:38 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
I'm curious, does anybody have experience with infrared heaters? Saw those at the Home Show last year at CNE. Supposed to be very efficient as they heat up object (furniture, car, etc) instead of heating up the air (repeating the sales pitch here). The smaller units were in the $200-300 range...
01-04-2010, 04:34 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
I'm looking into forced air, infrared and radiant. As mentioned previously, tube style (radiant or infrared) have clearance issues and I've also learned that they are way less efficient than forced air. Forced air units are cheaper as well.
I'll post my findings here. Thanks.
I'll post my findings here. Thanks.
01-04-2010, 05:50 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I looked at gas powered radiant and those are nice but don't park a car under them. In the end the problem for me was the intake and vent locations. Neither worked well and overall the price was quite high. The second option was Quartz Ray electric infra-red heaters and if I continue the silly notion of working in the garage in winter I'll go that route. The manufacturer is Brant Radiant Heaters in Paris Ontario, and the distributer is Davis Energy Systems in Mississauga 905 677-3499. They gave me a price of $ 450.00 ea. 220VAC. Those are 30" long and two or three would be plenty.
I found that once the propane heater heats up the contents, even after dumping the air, it stayed comfortable, so I may still go that way even if i go to the electric quartz heaters. Thing is, I hate waiting, i want to work in the garage now, not next thursday.
I found that once the propane heater heats up the contents, even after dumping the air, it stayed comfortable, so I may still go that way even if i go to the electric quartz heaters. Thing is, I hate waiting, i want to work in the garage now, not next thursday.
01-04-2010, 09:24 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Tube heaters are pretty good if used in the right application.If you had a high ceiling with ceiling fans they will work. The key is being far enough away from the roof of a car (especially if you have a lift).
A small unit heater is probably the best for a residential garage.You can pick up a Reznor unit heater for around $1200 depending on the input. I believe they have the option of ducting outside air directly to the combustion blower, and you can sidewall the exhaust. What I did was use construction lights close to the area that I work in. It warmed up the work area enough that I could work without gloves .
When I replace the furnace in my house I might install ductwork and use the old furnace.
A small unit heater is probably the best for a residential garage.You can pick up a Reznor unit heater for around $1200 depending on the input. I believe they have the option of ducting outside air directly to the combustion blower, and you can sidewall the exhaust. What I did was use construction lights close to the area that I work in. It warmed up the work area enough that I could work without gloves .
When I replace the furnace in my house I might install ductwork and use the old furnace.
01-04-2010, 10:16 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a shop in the garage and I have three of the common smaller heaters.
- propane tank mounted dual burner radiant heater (should really only be used with the door open)
- electric quartz IR radiant heater from Lee Valley
- two forced air (fan with heater coil) electric heaters
As mentioned up yonder, a heater that works on combustion (like the propane heater I have) that isn't vented is a no-no. CO will kill off brain cells and it could kill you.
The electric quartz IR radiant heater heats up objects in the room. When this is on and when you are in the "zone", then you will feel warmth instantly. Great when you are standing at a workbench, cleaning a car part in your cold garage. You will feel toasty, fast. However, when you walk over to the tool box, out of direct "sight" of the heater, you will freeze your nuts off. Roll under the car - same thing. You will freeze. My small heater only has a range of about 14 feet.
I prefer the warm air blowing by me from an electric heater with a fan assist. I use a couple small 1500W ones on heavy duty timers and these come on automatically every morning and go off at night. The best value in these type of heaters is the 4800W "construction heater" that operates on 230V and uses a 30 amp circuit. These can be bought at Canadian Tire, Home Depot, etc for $65-90. These will heat a 2 car garage fairly quickly. You can wire these up with a thermostat to maintain a temperature or rig up a timer system for them if you build it yourself (I made a remote control unit for my woodworking dust collector that powers a 5HP, 20amp, 230V motor so I know for sure this can be done).
Cheers,
- propane tank mounted dual burner radiant heater (should really only be used with the door open)
- electric quartz IR radiant heater from Lee Valley
- two forced air (fan with heater coil) electric heaters
As mentioned up yonder, a heater that works on combustion (like the propane heater I have) that isn't vented is a no-no. CO will kill off brain cells and it could kill you.
The electric quartz IR radiant heater heats up objects in the room. When this is on and when you are in the "zone", then you will feel warmth instantly. Great when you are standing at a workbench, cleaning a car part in your cold garage. You will feel toasty, fast. However, when you walk over to the tool box, out of direct "sight" of the heater, you will freeze your nuts off. Roll under the car - same thing. You will freeze. My small heater only has a range of about 14 feet.
I prefer the warm air blowing by me from an electric heater with a fan assist. I use a couple small 1500W ones on heavy duty timers and these come on automatically every morning and go off at night. The best value in these type of heaters is the 4800W "construction heater" that operates on 230V and uses a 30 amp circuit. These can be bought at Canadian Tire, Home Depot, etc for $65-90. These will heat a 2 car garage fairly quickly. You can wire these up with a thermostat to maintain a temperature or rig up a timer system for them if you build it yourself (I made a remote control unit for my woodworking dust collector that powers a 5HP, 20amp, 230V motor so I know for sure this can be done).
Cheers,
01-05-2010, 01:30 PM
#39
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Since I've been home sick for the last few days, dicided to see how much can i heat up the garage without using the propane space heater. I have two 300W on the cieling and four 60W bulbs on eather side of the garage door opener. The garage always stays at least at +2C so turned all the lights on and after a day and a half, it was up to around +8C. Then, while leaving the lights on, I plugged in a small 1500W electric heater and another day later the entire garage was up to +11C. Just now I turned the lights off, but kept the heater on to see how much will the temperature drop. Either way, looks I can get the garage warm enough to work in it, without having the jet engine afterburner heater on.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
01-05-2010, 05:32 PM
#40
Three Wheelin'
I've got a bunch of quotes and still one or two more to go but it looks like the way for me is with a forced air, natural gas unit. As Brian 162 correctly stated, I ran into clearance issues with the tube style heaters. As it turns out, forced air units are way more efficient than the tube style heaters.
The furnace company that did the HVAC in my house is giving me a pretty good deal. A 45,000 BTU unit, all-in $1,695+GST.
Christien will be rebuilding his engine in my garage before I know it!!
The furnace company that did the HVAC in my house is giving me a pretty good deal. A 45,000 BTU unit, all-in $1,695+GST.
Christien will be rebuilding his engine in my garage before I know it!!
01-05-2010, 07:38 PM
#41
Drifting
Since I've been home sick for the last few days, dicided to see how much can i heat up the garage without using the propane space heater. I have two 300W on the cieling and four 60W bulbs on eather side of the garage door opener. The garage always stays at least at +2C so turned all the lights on and after a day and a half, it was up to around +8C. Then, while leaving the lights on, I plugged in a small 1500W electric heater and another day later the entire garage was up to +11C. Just now I turned the lights off, but kept the heater on to see how much will the temperature drop. Either way, looks I can get the garage warm enough to work in it, without having the jet engine afterburner heater on.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
If I were to heat my garage which is very likely i'd opt for passive solar heating, not the warmest or most consistent solution but comfortable enough. A warm garage would make the floors of the coach house above it alot more comfortable as well.
Last edited by Mark Lue; 01-05-2010 at 08:01 PM. Reason: Info
01-05-2010, 09:12 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
Since I've been home sick for the last few days, dicided to see how much can i heat up the garage without using the propane space heater. I have two 300W on the cieling and four 60W bulbs on eather side of the garage door opener. The garage always stays at least at +2C so turned all the lights on and after a day and a half, it was up to around +8C. Then, while leaving the lights on, I plugged in a small 1500W electric heater and another day later the entire garage was up to +11C. Just now I turned the lights off, but kept the heater on to see how much will the temperature drop. Either way, looks I can get the garage warm enough to work in it, without having the jet engine afterburner heater on.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
So if you are in a pinch and your garage is insulated, you can get a couple of 300W bulbs at Home Depot and they should keep the garage above freezing. I know this is not the most efficient way but it works.
01-06-2010, 07:33 PM
#43
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
01-06-2010, 10:55 PM
#44
Pro
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 570
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the Mr Heater Big Maxx ala princess auto. Somewhere around $300 IIRC. Works great on a thermostat just like a furnace. Hang it anywhere on the ceiling with minimal clearances and you get to keep all your brain cells. Last time I checked we still need them.
But if you want the best then radiant in floor hot water heat is the cat's ***.
A friend built a carport which he then closed in. Dug up the ground, put down gravel, mesh, water pipes, concrete and somewhere in between all that was blue styrofoam insulation board. It's unbelievable how efficient the system is when you heat a huge concrete slab from the bottom up, don't forget that heat rises and all the above mentioned formats either move hot and cold air around or produce heat from a single source. One of the ways our bodies tell us that we are cold is by our feet and standing on a warm concrete slab is more comfortable than it is in my home with a forced air gas system.
Truly if you have no budget then radiant in-floor heating is the only way to do it right. The justification is that you'll pay more upfront but alot less in monthly utility expense and you have the benifit of use all along the way, oh ya and the floor dries up immediately and stays dry.
But if you want the best then radiant in floor hot water heat is the cat's ***.
A friend built a carport which he then closed in. Dug up the ground, put down gravel, mesh, water pipes, concrete and somewhere in between all that was blue styrofoam insulation board. It's unbelievable how efficient the system is when you heat a huge concrete slab from the bottom up, don't forget that heat rises and all the above mentioned formats either move hot and cold air around or produce heat from a single source. One of the ways our bodies tell us that we are cold is by our feet and standing on a warm concrete slab is more comfortable than it is in my home with a forced air gas system.
Truly if you have no budget then radiant in-floor heating is the only way to do it right. The justification is that you'll pay more upfront but alot less in monthly utility expense and you have the benifit of use all along the way, oh ya and the floor dries up immediately and stays dry.
01-08-2010, 01:07 AM
#45
Burning Brakes
Shemmer, I am assuming the Styrofoam would go under the heating pipes,
where all the cold is.
I am wondering what is the most efficient system: water heating radiation?
Gas systems over-head?
It looks like everybody has a different opinion.
where all the cold is.
I am wondering what is the most efficient system: water heating radiation?
Gas systems over-head?
It looks like everybody has a different opinion.
I have the Mr Heater Big Maxx ala princess auto. Somewhere around $300 IIRC. Works great on a thermostat just like a furnace. Hang it anywhere on the ceiling with minimal clearances and you get to keep all your brain cells. Last time I checked we still need them.
But if you want the best then radiant in floor hot water heat is the cat's ***.
A friend built a carport which he then closed in. Dug up the ground, put down gravel, mesh, water pipes, concrete and somewhere in between all that was blue styrofoam insulation board. It's unbelievable how efficient the system is when you heat a huge concrete slab from the bottom up, don't forget that heat rises and all the above mentioned formats either move hot and cold air around or produce heat from a single source. One of the ways our bodies tell us that we are cold is by our feet and standing on a warm concrete slab is more comfortable than it is in my home with a forced air gas system.
Truly if you have no budget then radiant in-floor heating is the only way to do it right. The justification is that you'll pay more upfront but alot less in monthly utility expense and you have the benifit of use all along the way, oh ya and the floor dries up immediately and stays dry.
But if you want the best then radiant in floor hot water heat is the cat's ***.
A friend built a carport which he then closed in. Dug up the ground, put down gravel, mesh, water pipes, concrete and somewhere in between all that was blue styrofoam insulation board. It's unbelievable how efficient the system is when you heat a huge concrete slab from the bottom up, don't forget that heat rises and all the above mentioned formats either move hot and cold air around or produce heat from a single source. One of the ways our bodies tell us that we are cold is by our feet and standing on a warm concrete slab is more comfortable than it is in my home with a forced air gas system.
Truly if you have no budget then radiant in-floor heating is the only way to do it right. The justification is that you'll pay more upfront but alot less in monthly utility expense and you have the benifit of use all along the way, oh ya and the floor dries up immediately and stays dry.