Jamie140

Completely missed the thread.

jamesjedi

I believe it is kinda on topic....in reference to which oil to use.

I have a copy of the 2006 "Technical Information" concerning Porsche recommended oils. It covers all "standard" production vehicles as of 1984, with the exception of the Cayenne. It is covered in a separate Technical.

It states that only hydro cracked or synthetic oils are now approved by Porsche. All of the oils are either 5W 40, or 0W 40. It also states that the 0w 40 should be considered for all vehicles in -12 f. The wording is confusing. I will try to post it, or you can search for it.

Some of these recommendations have expired....perhaps there is newer list available.

James

webbie

This one?

http://img194.imageshack.us/i/oil.pdf/

IXLR8

I just bought some Mobil 1 15W-50 regularly priced for $4.65 per liter at Wal-Mart...in NY state.

You really have to wonder why the same product costs so much up here.

jamesjedi

Yes. That is the same Porsche document 1701.

Sputter

FYI, that approved list is way out of date by 2 years.
27/08 is current

Jim

Sputter

Not to get into an Oil war. The Castrol Syntec is on sale this week at CDN Tire. 5W-40 by the jug.
I dunno why it's packaged as 4.4 liters, it makes me have to buy one single liter on top of two jugs.


Jim

gofor28off

I did not know you were a CTC dealer.
I am sure we have met at dealer conventions. Were you at the Products Parade in Oct and did you buy your Golfgreen LOL?

IXLR8

Probably because of a 10% bonus that they once had as a promotion. So they just continued using the same jugs.

The US jugs are 4.73 liters because they sell them as 5 US quarts.

theiceman

I really do dislike companies that don't sell the big Jugs ... For me it is not even a cost issue .. I just think 12 samll jugs are going to be more of a biohazard. There is no way to really recycle these like I do the larger ones with used oil and take them to the dump . i am not a real tree hugger but to me this seams an easy fix for manufacturers of oil . I don't like mobil one anyway so i do understand I am in the minority .. I like Brad- Penn and valvoline VR-1 Racing .. both of which are only available in small bottles .. grrrrrrr !!!!!

Sputter

I hate having to line up all the bottles (top down) just to get all that I paid for.
lol

I think folks are starting to shift from Mobil1 as it's not the same blend as it used to be. I'm going by what those that know more about oils say.

Short interval changes are key no matter what your favorite flavour is.

webbie

Could you share the latest list?

Jaak Lepson

That is the key. I know a few garages that are making a killing doing engine rebuilds on BMW's who were told to go 20,000+ km before changing oil!!!

Rebuilder say change it at least twice a year irregardless of how many "miles" one puts on. With our toys ... the engines are $$$$$$$$$$$ squared to rebuild or replace!!!! I would rather be on the cautious side and replace the oil more often. ~$100 in parts VS $17,000+ in engine replacement (this is an average cost over the board across the models, YMMV). I have seen lifters that have gotten stuck due to the crap in the oil with the "factory recommended" oil change interval.

If one wants to be true to the Euro model ... go find some Euro oil such as Motul etc. to fill the crankcase. What I have learned is this is better than the NA stuff which has been formulated for NA vehicles. EU had a different standard. Motul can be found at independant BMW shops (one is off Kennedy RD north of Lawrence Ave E. ... same street where the Brick is.

petee_c

I am not sure if the above reasoning is sound. I am not sure if Jaak's statement/observation proves anything. Are engine rebuilds not happening on vehicles with less than a 20,000km interval?


I don't think that the oil change interval can be held directly to blame for engine failures.

I would argue the following points could also be true (i.e. not false).

- engine rebuilds can occur, at any mileage, on a vehicle with any degree of maintenance

- engine failures may be related to stresses in the metals molded, cast, or machined to control combustive forces ( turning the combustion of gas and air into movement of the piston, then reversing the movement of that piston and related metal parts and starting over again)

- a lot of what we think we know about our vehicles/toys is from what we have heard other people say, who are not necessarily in the field.

- there have been advancements in oil over the years, what we heard as the standard practise back then, may not apply today.

- oils have base additives to neutralize (buffer) acidic byproducts of combustion. If those buffers are used up, then u start to have a problem with acidic oil. Anytime the buffers are still active, then your oil is fine from an acid/base standpoint.

- from oil analysis, most viscocity changes occur early on in the (oil change) interval. i.e. an oil with 0km on it is substantially different than an oil with 1000km on it, but the difference in viscosity between an oil with 1000km on it and 10,000km on it is not as drastic.

- there is a lot more oil in the pan of a BMW, or a Porsche then most other vehicles we see on the road, there may be some validity to the extended oil change intervals given the fact that our oils are used 1/2 as much. i.e. My Jetta 1.8T (APR chip) holds 4.4L of 5w40, I let oil changes go 10,000km before changing, given the Boxster's oil pan capacity is over twice as much, the oil only gets 'worked' 1/2 as hard. Oil appears fine with the extended interval on the Jetta, according the Blackstone analysis.

--------------
It's my hypothesis that people give too much credit to the notion that doing frequent oil changes helps the longevity of their vehicles, given today's advances in clean burning engines, and oil technologies.

P

Jaak Lepson

Pete ... this is what I have heard from several wrenchs who work on these engines. For me, I am changing it more often than required in the manual, but then again I have access to my friends Independant Porsche shop (HPCARS) and get to see cars that come in for service. I also get to meet owners of other shops through him and hear their stories. To me changing it more often has it's benefits. My wrench has shown me many a stuck lifter on 993 & 996 as well as a few 986 engines.

Now mine was rebuilt (2002 986 S) due to the PO putting in 4 extra litres of oil ... so I know what the cost of an engine rebuild is. This was factored in the price of the car when I bought it. I still don't have it on the road as I am waiting for headers that are stuck in NY in UPS hub and the sender is out till next week.

Just a bit of information that I have gotten from a few sources who have practical experiences. I see and I adjust. It's cheap insurance. YMMV.