Oil Change before/after Winter storage?
03-01-2018, 07:12 PM
#16
Drifting
For winter applications, aren't 0w40 and 30w are totally different ends of the spectrum.... (as in it would do better in a mower than a blower? due to running the mower in the summer?)
03-01-2018, 09:41 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
my bad, you are totally correct. I never could understand why a 30 w oil in the winter.....just pulled the i manual and its 5w 30 called for. So I guess 0 w 40 should perform even better in the old girl.
03-09-2018, 04:23 PM
#21
Drifting
I agree as do several mechanics's I've talked with as well. Changing oil before you store a car and then changing it again... after already doing so at the end of the previous season, justifies the Internet's view of Porsche owners as being ****... 
The only byproduct sitting in fresh oil after a few months of non *starts* (this is key) is water from condensation. It will burn off within 20 minutes of driving. But if spending money is ok and adding used oil to the oil recycling industry is not an issue for you - have at it. Shrug
The only byproduct sitting in fresh oil after a few months of non *starts* (this is key) is water from condensation. It will burn off within 20 minutes of driving. But if spending money is ok and adding used oil to the oil recycling industry is not an issue for you - have at it. Shrug
03-09-2018, 04:37 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
03-09-2018, 10:14 PM
#23
Race Car
That's BS you're smelling. There are post use Blackstone oil tests all over this site. One shows no appreciable impurities even after 5,600 miles. Chat's with several Exxon M1 techs confirm the stuff is good for years and we're all wasting money tossing perfectly good oil. Check it out for yourself. Make sure you get past the customer service types to an engineer.
Last edited by ronnie993tt; 03-09-2018 at 10:39 PM.
03-14-2018, 04:06 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
That's BS you're smelling. There are post use Blackstone oil tests all over this site. One shows no appreciable impurities even after 5,600 miles. Chat's with several Exxon M1 techs confirm the stuff is good for years and we're all wasting money tossing perfectly good oil. Check it out for yourself. Make sure you get past the customer service types to an engineer.
FWIW, I like doing a spring oil change... because I'd rather change oil when it's warm out. That probably won't change until I get a warmer garage.
03-15-2018, 01:52 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
If you happened to not have changed the oil before the winter, can you simply just drain it without starting since it will all be collected at the bottom? I know it won't be hot oil but...
03-15-2018, 02:33 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Will not ,make a difference, might as well heat it up for a quicker drain. The reason to do before is to have virgin oil on all the bearings rather than potentially used acidic oil during a lay up period.
03-15-2018, 05:10 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
What I meant is will all the oil drain out even though it's not at operating temp? No point dry starting twice...
03-15-2018, 05:52 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
I would start it and warm it up. Then everything will be coated. If you change it before then there is a possibility of a lag no flow as the filter has been emptied when you put the new filter on. As far as draining, the difference you get out it probably a non factor, unless you start tipping the car like someone did in here. Jmo