Who would be considered the PCA 911 E-Class suspension gurus?
07-13-2017, 05:10 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
I'll see what Dan has lying around.
07-13-2017, 08:39 PM
#17
Drifting
As you know, but others reading this may not, I owned that car before you. That car was built by Charlie at Intersport for a back marker driver. That's who I bought the car from.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
Last edited by GT3DE; 07-13-2017 at 09:00 PM.
07-14-2017, 06:57 AM
#18
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As you know, but others reading this may not, I owned that car before you. That car was built by Charlie at Intersport for a back marker driver. That's who I bought the car from.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
07-14-2017, 10:21 AM
#19
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Also, schedule some time at the track with Evan... He has a great manner, solid information and soon serious tools to help bootstrap progress...
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-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
07-15-2017, 03:24 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As you know, but others reading this may not, I owned that car before you. That car was built by Charlie at Intersport for a back marker driver. That's who I bought the car from.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
I'm still trying to figure out what's in the car. I've asked Charlie, but haven't heard back from him. I'd like to have a baseline of what has already been done.
I don't have enough seat time in it to probably give appropriate feedback for adjustments, but the car, when pushed becomes really unstable out back. The esses at VIR were particularly challenging at the top as the rear end was almost unmanageable setting up for south bend. I'm definitely going to start playing with sway bar settings before tearing anything out, but going over 8/10ths and the car was very squirrelly.
Do you know what's in the car? Probably a question I should have asked at the point of sale but I didn't know jack about E cars. For that matter, still don't know much but I'm trying to learn.
Are the shocks revalved?
Torsion bar size?
What brand sway bars?
Thanks!
Agreed. Already planning more weekends. Had been racing a 914-6 prior to this, but a vintage 911 drives very very different through the corners. Way more throttle steering going on. As soon as it's out of the body shop, I'll be back at it.
Yeah, he's a good guy and obviously very quick. Would most certainly like to collaborate with him on getting more out of me and the car.
07-15-2017, 03:42 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
As you know, but others reading this may not, I owned that car before you. That car was built by Charlie at Intersport for a back marker driver. That's who I bought the car from.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
The suspension in that car is the same as both my current car and Evan's car (with the exception that my car has adjustable shocks, Evan's has same shocks as you). While that car was mostly driven by Sly, the few times I drove it, it was just as fast as my car.
That car doesn't need any suspension upgrades. It's not the suspension. Go do 10 or 12 race weekends before making changes.
07-15-2017, 05:38 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
07-18-2017, 03:11 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
One of the reasons I went back to E class. Pick your t bars, match your bilsteins to them, put in Smart Sways and away you go. Then again the guys finishing ahead of me are running remote doubles or triples 
07-18-2017, 04:10 PM
#26
07-18-2017, 04:13 PM
#27
Peter I think I know what tools you're talking about and I AM EXCITED!
Seriously to OP - Evan has been coaching me for a year and a half and took me from ok DE drover to podiums and even some class and overall wins.
Safety, seat time, and coaching are imho the best investments, in that order...
Seriously to OP - Evan has been coaching me for a year and a half and took me from ok DE drover to podiums and even some class and overall wins.
Safety, seat time, and coaching are imho the best investments, in that order...
07-20-2017, 04:12 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Turns out one of the rear sway bar mounts broke... Which explains why the rear end wouldn't settle down.
I guess step one will be to replace the mount with an aftermarket reinforcement kit like this one and then go drive again:
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...nforcement-kit
Unless there is another option you guys prefer... Buckley used to sell his version but no longer offers them.
I guess step one will be to replace the mount with an aftermarket reinforcement kit like this one and then go drive again:
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...nforcement-kit
Unless there is another option you guys prefer... Buckley used to sell his version but no longer offers them.
07-20-2017, 06:52 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
I can't offer any specific feedback for E class, but the spec 911 class with PRC is ridiculously competitive out west. Essentially the same platform, 911 with euro 3.0L.
Coming from racing cup cars, I had a hard time adapting to all the body roll even with 24/34mm torsion bars. Lots of the cars run super low ride height, so low that they take off the rear sway bar. Counter intuitive to everything I knew... until I put 2 and 2 together figured out that the fast guys are running on the bump stops. I like running a little higher with a small rear bar. Double check your rear bar diameter. Last I checked Elephant only sells the big Tarrett rear bar that's the same diameter as the front, total overkill, hence many people ripping their mounts off.
Nearly everyone out here runs the rebel racing's rear trailing arm bushings (I tried the elephant poly bronze and had issues). Lots of bushing options for the front A arms, I run the elephant.
Settings, I go 3 deg camber in front, 4.5 deg in rear. 2mm toe out in front, 3 mm toe in in the rear.
Coming from racing cup cars, I had a hard time adapting to all the body roll even with 24/34mm torsion bars. Lots of the cars run super low ride height, so low that they take off the rear sway bar. Counter intuitive to everything I knew... until I put 2 and 2 together figured out that the fast guys are running on the bump stops. I like running a little higher with a small rear bar. Double check your rear bar diameter. Last I checked Elephant only sells the big Tarrett rear bar that's the same diameter as the front, total overkill, hence many people ripping their mounts off.
Nearly everyone out here runs the rebel racing's rear trailing arm bushings (I tried the elephant poly bronze and had issues). Lots of bushing options for the front A arms, I run the elephant.
Settings, I go 3 deg camber in front, 4.5 deg in rear. 2mm toe out in front, 3 mm toe in in the rear.