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Those are fine. Run them until the holes connect or as jerry said, the crack goes to the edge.
Here is a done rotor on our endurance car, note that the brake cooling hose failed. The passenger side rotor was fine. This is after 14 hours at Daytona.
We changed to a different type of hose after this event.
I'd agree that the OP has some more life in those rotors if they're monitored closely--they appear to be surface cracks. (Those appear quickly.) They'll begin to spiderweb and connect internally first and then when they get closer to the edge they're done. For reference:
I'd agree that the OP has some more life in those rotors if they're monitored closely--they appear to be surface cracks. (Those appear quickly.) They'll begin to spiderweb and connect internally first and then when they get closer to the edge they're done. For reference:
that's when you pitch them! i cant tell you how many ive tossed after 3 weekends when they get to that point. sometimes, i would go until 2 or more holes led to the outside. its more scary with the 2 piece rotor, because structurally, you cont have anything on the inner side rotor (which generally doesnt crack) to hold the rotor to the hub. anyway, i just replaced a rotor that was cracked in 4 places on the rear. man, it vibrated so bad, i thought the car was coming apart. replaced it just before the race this weekend! dreamland smooth! (i have a beding story for that one, because it was new rotor, old pads, racing pads.... LOTS of noise, even after a race session..........my bedding process works for this situation too) fixed it at the track .
REAR ROTORS near 10 years old. They looked like this after the last race at laguna last season, ran laguna the first race of this season and there was a little vibration in the rear of the car , seemed to go away when hot. then, by the last race , the vibration was coming back a little and after the race, when the cooled the car as near undrivable, there was SO much vibration.
changed the rears just before the race this weekend and its smooth as silk. should never have waited. all that vibration only causes damage, or worse!
Back to the OP's question: Yes, those rotors look like they should go a few more days. BUT.....
Sebro stock size rotors for Caymans are so cheap and easy to replace that it's not really worth trying to get every last session out of them. Even if you're only getting 10-12 days, that's like $20/day. I realized this years ago at Laguna when I was stressing about whether I should change out rotors before a race day....and when I realized the $ it was easy to change them and not stress about it.
This decision gets a little more difficult for me running big brakes with expensive rotors...
And if you just switch to slotted sebro, you should get a bit more life out of them.
Back to the OP's question: Yes, those rotors look like they should go a few more days. BUT.....
Sebro stock size rotors for Caymans are so cheap and easy to replace that it's not really worth trying to get every last session out of them. Even if you're only getting 10-12 days, that's like $20/day. I realized this years ago at Laguna when I was stressing about whether I should change out rotors before a race day....and when I realized the $ it was easy to change them and not stress about it.
This decision gets a little more difficult for me running big brakes with expensive rotors...
And if you just switch to slotted sebro, you should get a bit more life out of them.
+1 for wgn. Basically, if you think you need to ask, then they are done.
The 997 Cup front rotors are $650 each and still, why take chances. They can go from "I got one more session" to no more brakes too quick.
Back to the OP's question: Yes, those rotors look like they should go a few more days. BUT.....
Sebro stock size rotors for Caymans are so cheap and easy to replace that it's not really worth trying to get every last session out of them. Even if you're only getting 10-12 days, that's like $20/day. I realized this years ago at Laguna when I was stressing about whether I should change out rotors before a race day....and when I realized the $ it was easy to change them and not stress about it.
This decision gets a little more difficult for me running big brakes with expensive rotors...
And if you just switch to slotted sebro, you should get a bit more life out of them.
the real concern i have during this analysis, is how much pads are left. if there there is a lot, i recommend running for anther day or two, rather than putting on new rotors with old pads.... pads are expensive too. however, if cost is not an issue, just junk them and buy new pads. putting good old pads with new rotors makes the bedding process a little harder occasionally. but, those cracks are not that bad and i suspect they wont get worse for a couple of weekends, but keep an eye on them for sure! if it was a honda rotor, i would replace it immediately. (those things just fall apart like they are made of clay)
Back to the OP's question: Yes, those rotors look like they should go a few more days. BUT.....
Sebro stock size rotors for Caymans are so cheap and easy to replace that it's not really worth trying to get every last session out of them. Even if you're only getting 10-12 days, that's like $20/day. I realized this years ago at Laguna when I was stressing about whether I should change out rotors before a race day....and when I realized the $ it was easy to change them and not stress about it.
This decision gets a little more difficult for me running big brakes with expensive rotors...
And if you just switch to slotted sebro, you should get a bit more life out of them.
This was my thinking exactly and went ahead and changed them. I had a track event the next morning and Sebro drilled was the only thing I could get on short notice.
Changed both and bled all 4 wheels in an hour flat wheels up to wheels down.
Not pinching pennies. Just wanted to get some opinions on whether this was finished or not.
i used these rotors for a race weekend and they were in pretty bad shape by the last day. if they were solids, it wouldnt have been a problem, but as a 2 piece, look at the anulus mounting tabs. thats a little scary. was very glad to change those out, even though they were near the same as yours as far as spider cracks due to the holes. at the end of the weekend, the outer holes had gaping cracks out to the outer edge. solids and 2 piece is the way to go. so many advantages, pictures show contrast
07-01-2017, 09:04 PM
