PCA Club Racing I Class Build
#1
PCA Club Racing I Class Build
Hi All,
I currently have a 2009 6 spd Cayman S and want to take the leap into Club Racing, plan short term is to run Stock "I" with the ability to go into GTB-1 longer term. Trying to sort out the build, open to suggestions and advice.
Current Debates include,
1. JRZ 2 or 3 way? Any other brands I should be considering?
2. Fabspeed or Cargraphics Headers and exhaust or a mix of the two?
3. What do the rules allow for with respect to Aero, can I add a small wing? Rules didn't appear clear to me?
4. Suggestions for Fire Suppression system?
Any other must do changes? Naturally will add Toe Links, control arms etc.
Many thanks,
Graham
I currently have a 2009 6 spd Cayman S and want to take the leap into Club Racing, plan short term is to run Stock "I" with the ability to go into GTB-1 longer term. Trying to sort out the build, open to suggestions and advice.
Current Debates include,
1. JRZ 2 or 3 way? Any other brands I should be considering?
2. Fabspeed or Cargraphics Headers and exhaust or a mix of the two?
3. What do the rules allow for with respect to Aero, can I add a small wing? Rules didn't appear clear to me?
4. Suggestions for Fire Suppression system?
Any other must do changes? Naturally will add Toe Links, control arms etc.
Many thanks,
Graham
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
With respect to Stock I, just be aware that the '11 Cayman R with PDK is on paper the most competitive car in that class. Look at the 2017 PCA Club Racing Rulebook weight tables and you'll see why.
Unless you have the time, money and organization to set-up JRZ 3-ways, go with the JRZ 2-ways. If you want to customize the 2-ways later to add a high speed compression adjustment, that can be done.
With respect to headers and exhaust, Fabspeed will at some point crack at the seams and will be replaced under warranty. The Cargraphic exhaust will be a bit lighter but are more expensive. If you ever want to race in GTB1, get a customized M&M system from Germany.
In stock classes there is no aero allowed that wasn't available from the factory. Factory aero kit items move you into J Prepared. Check with PCA Club Racing first before you buy anything to assure compliance with the rules. Just be aware that from Stock/Prepared Class to GTB1 is not always a natural progression (Example: Flywheel) as GTB1 started with grandfathering the ITC Caymans.
Other than the obvious suspension and engine/trans cooling mods, you should have a clear idea in terms of getting to your 3126 lb min weight as soon as your cage is installed. As others will state, it will be cheaper to buy a car that's already built but there are benefits to doing it from the ground up.
Unless you have the time, money and organization to set-up JRZ 3-ways, go with the JRZ 2-ways. If you want to customize the 2-ways later to add a high speed compression adjustment, that can be done.
With respect to headers and exhaust, Fabspeed will at some point crack at the seams and will be replaced under warranty. The Cargraphic exhaust will be a bit lighter but are more expensive. If you ever want to race in GTB1, get a customized M&M system from Germany.
In stock classes there is no aero allowed that wasn't available from the factory. Factory aero kit items move you into J Prepared. Check with PCA Club Racing first before you buy anything to assure compliance with the rules. Just be aware that from Stock/Prepared Class to GTB1 is not always a natural progression (Example: Flywheel) as GTB1 started with grandfathering the ITC Caymans.
Other than the obvious suspension and engine/trans cooling mods, you should have a clear idea in terms of getting to your 3126 lb min weight as soon as your cage is installed. As others will state, it will be cheaper to buy a car that's already built but there are benefits to doing it from the ground up.
#3
Franks, thanks for the quick reply.
Has anyone ever suggested PCA adjusts the Min weights to level out the power difference between all the various cars? Just seems to me that half of the challenge in Stock Classes is simply picking a car that naturally runs towards the top of the class?
I had considered buying an already build GTB-1 car, but ultimately decided it would be best to learn in the Stock classes before moving into GTB-1. Again open to suggestions.
Thanks again
Has anyone ever suggested PCA adjusts the Min weights to level out the power difference between all the various cars? Just seems to me that half of the challenge in Stock Classes is simply picking a car that naturally runs towards the top of the class?
I had considered buying an already build GTB-1 car, but ultimately decided it would be best to learn in the Stock classes before moving into GTB-1. Again open to suggestions.
Thanks again
#4
Rennlist Member
Suggest that you add the PDK center radiator and a transmission cooler. I found that my manual G car (987.2 base car) ran hot before we made those two changes. Perfect after that. Regarding wing, has to remain the factory element or it will move you into Prepared I. Since it motorized on your car, you can pin it in the upright position and take out the motor which is 5-7lbs.
#5
Drifting
if I were in your shoes I'd buy something like this car:
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...track-car.html
instead of spending more $$ and a lot of time building your 09
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...track-car.html
instead of spending more $$ and a lot of time building your 09
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Has anyone ever suggested PCA adjusts the Min weights to level out the power difference between all the various cars? Just seems to me that half of the challenge in Stock Classes is simply picking a car that naturally runs towards the top of the class?
I had considered buying an already build GTB-1 car, but ultimately decided it would be best to learn in the Stock classes before moving into GTB-1.
I had considered buying an already build GTB-1 car, but ultimately decided it would be best to learn in the Stock classes before moving into GTB-1.
Before building a car, you need to keep your end goal in mind and that should take platform competitiveness into account. From my observations, the weight differences are actually not a big factor in competitiveness but PDK is, especially amongst relatively inexperienced drivers and on some tracks more than others. However, the best drivers still tend to win in the stock classes regardless of what they are driving.
What you are describing in terms of your plans to start in a stock class is a great way to progress as your experience and skill level comes up to speed. You might actually like stock class better than GTB1 and you might decide to just stay there.
#7
Rennlist Member
I wouldn't let your current street car determine which class you should race. Pick a class that's cost effective (for you) to run and that is competitive in your geographical area then buy a built car from that class.
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#8
Rennlist Member
#9
Thxs all for the thoughts, keep them coming, very helpful.
The Cayman isn't a daily driver so no issue on the swap, I also run a GT4 for DE events (Also dedicated track car), just felt that it made sense to start slower, learn the craft and then get into a fast class.
As an aside, not sure everyone's view, but I think the speeds these GT cars can reach with limited safety should be a concern. I have a 1/2 roll/harness bar, 6pt harness etc....but I still question truly how safe they are at speed.
The Cayman isn't a daily driver so no issue on the swap, I also run a GT4 for DE events (Also dedicated track car), just felt that it made sense to start slower, learn the craft and then get into a fast class.
As an aside, not sure everyone's view, but I think the speeds these GT cars can reach with limited safety should be a concern. I have a 1/2 roll/harness bar, 6pt harness etc....but I still question truly how safe they are at speed.
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
To the OP, just keep in mind that a faster car is not necessarily more FUN to race (just look at the SPB Forum or the E-Class at WGI thread). There is nothing cost effective about GTB1 if you want to run at the front.
#11
Drifting
Hi All,
I currently have a 2009 6 spd Cayman S and want to take the leap into Club Racing, plan short term is to run Stock "I" with the ability to go into GTB-1 longer term. Trying to sort out the build, open to suggestions and advice.
Current Debates include,
1. JRZ 2 or 3 way? Any other brands I should be considering?
2. Fabspeed or Cargraphics Headers and exhaust or a mix of the two?
3. What do the rules allow for with respect to Aero, can I add a small wing? Rules didn't appear clear to me?
4. Suggestions for Fire Suppression system?
Any other must do changes? Naturally will add Toe Links, control arms etc.
Many thanks,
Graham
I currently have a 2009 6 spd Cayman S and want to take the leap into Club Racing, plan short term is to run Stock "I" with the ability to go into GTB-1 longer term. Trying to sort out the build, open to suggestions and advice.
Current Debates include,
1. JRZ 2 or 3 way? Any other brands I should be considering?
2. Fabspeed or Cargraphics Headers and exhaust or a mix of the two?
3. What do the rules allow for with respect to Aero, can I add a small wing? Rules didn't appear clear to me?
4. Suggestions for Fire Suppression system?
Any other must do changes? Naturally will add Toe Links, control arms etc.
Many thanks,
Graham
#12
Rennlist Member
you really need to consider SPC cayman with that. If you have to run against newer cars with PDK, you will never out run them.
Class size is growing in SPC and that would be the cheapest conversion and cheapest run costs.
Class size is growing in SPC and that would be the cheapest conversion and cheapest run costs.
#13
Rennlist
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Newer cars are better, IMO. SPC is growing and a competitive class. I would be less **** about car spec and more focused on gaining track time in the car and gaining confidence and comfort so you can COMMIT!
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-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
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"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
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-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#14
Rennlist Member
A large and competitive class is important because (1) you always have a group of cars to race with and (2) you always have an idea about how much room there is to improve (when compared to the pointy end of the class). You can't do this with 4 cars in your class separated by seconds in laptimes. SPB and E-class seem to lead there on the east coast. Hopefully SPC catches up.
#15
Rennlist Member
Note, SPC can only be 06-08 cayman S non DFI cars. So the OP's current "donor" car would not be valid. This is why I posted Sam's SPC for sale.