What else to change while upgrading LSD internals?
#1
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I'm about to have my shop upgrade the LSD of my GT3 with Guard internals. Long overdue as the OEM LSD is probably long gone. What else is usually checked/replaced "while there"?
#3
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I'm actually about to change the internals on my LSD to Guard as well. Chose to go with a 40/60 setup. While i'm at it, i'm going to change the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and although not entirely related, all wheel hubs and bearings.
My clutch still has 40% life, but since it was never upgraded to the 4.0 kit, i'm just going to get it done all in one shot.
My clutch still has 40% life, but since it was never upgraded to the 4.0 kit, i'm just going to get it done all in one shot.
#4
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I'd chat with Matt Monson at Guard on the options for ramp angles (50/80, etc.), get his thoughts on which set makes best sense given the use you plan to make of it.
Otherwise, "while we're in there," it generally makes sense to take a look at the condition of the transmission bearings and synchros. In your car, this will require a little more disassembly. But given that your car's eleven years old, and assuming it hasn't sat in a garage most of its life, my take is that it's a good investment. Good luck!
Otherwise, "while we're in there," it generally makes sense to take a look at the condition of the transmission bearings and synchros. In your car, this will require a little more disassembly. But given that your car's eleven years old, and assuming it hasn't sat in a garage most of its life, my take is that it's a good investment. Good luck!
#5
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Thanks guys! All useful stuff. Keep adding if you find anything missing.
#6
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Assuming you are just doing the Guard plates (good idea), and keeping the stock differential housing, not sure how much there is to do 'while you're in there' - part of the beauty of this upgrade is that the original diff itself is plug and play, does not require any specialized and time consuming fitment, setting of backlash etc.
Checking transmission internals is a whole separate project. If yours is shifting well and has had good maintenance, perhaps something to defer until there is an actual need?
At least that's what I would do. Guess it depends on how much usage you have on your transmission already.
Cheers
Matt
Checking transmission internals is a whole separate project. If yours is shifting well and has had good maintenance, perhaps something to defer until there is an actual need?
At least that's what I would do. Guess it depends on how much usage you have on your transmission already.
Cheers
Matt
#7
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If this is just a street car then just have the shop rebuild the LSD. No need to change the ramps. I race my GT3 all I had done is replacement of disks with guards parts. Like Matt stated the transmission is a separate issue. If you are not grinding when shifting then leave as is. No need for additional expenses. Good luck.
Steve
Steve
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#8
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so many internet experts here,
I've had ZERO problems with my LSD on my 2010 C4s.
I simply followed porsches guidelines in the owners manual and have not installed (racing slicks) n the vehicle.
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
Lets all panic and buy aftermarket diffs...
What is more concerning is if I buy a vette it comes with a rear electronic DIFF standard.. If I buy a S or GTS 911 it does not.
BTW someone confused the electronic twin clutch 4wd with the mechanical locking diff. The 4s comes with an electronic twin clutch 4wd coupled to a mechanical locking diff (best of all worlds in my mind for a track car)
The 991 also does not have electronic diff.
All corvettes have electronic diffs now except the super base model.
I've had ZERO problems with my LSD on my 2010 C4s.
I simply followed porsches guidelines in the owners manual and have not installed (racing slicks) n the vehicle.
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
Lets all panic and buy aftermarket diffs...
What is more concerning is if I buy a vette it comes with a rear electronic DIFF standard.. If I buy a S or GTS 911 it does not.
BTW someone confused the electronic twin clutch 4wd with the mechanical locking diff. The 4s comes with an electronic twin clutch 4wd coupled to a mechanical locking diff (best of all worlds in my mind for a track car)
The 991 also does not have electronic diff.
All corvettes have electronic diffs now except the super base model.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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so many internet experts here,
I've had ZERO problems with my LSD on my 2010 C4s.
I simply followed porsches guidelines in the owners manual and have not installed (racing slicks) n the vehicle.
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
Lets all panic and buy aftermarket diffs...
What is more concerning is if I buy a vette it comes with a rear electronic DIFF standard.. If I buy a S or GTS 911 it does not.
BTW someone confused the electronic twin clutch 4wd with the mechanical locking diff. The 4s comes with an electronic twin clutch 4wd coupled to a mechanical locking diff (best of all worlds in my mind for a track car)
The 991 also does not have electronic diff.
All corvettes have electronic diffs now except the super base model.
I've had ZERO problems with my LSD on my 2010 C4s.
I simply followed porsches guidelines in the owners manual and have not installed (racing slicks) n the vehicle.
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
Lets all panic and buy aftermarket diffs...
What is more concerning is if I buy a vette it comes with a rear electronic DIFF standard.. If I buy a S or GTS 911 it does not.
BTW someone confused the electronic twin clutch 4wd with the mechanical locking diff. The 4s comes with an electronic twin clutch 4wd coupled to a mechanical locking diff (best of all worlds in my mind for a track car)
The 991 also does not have electronic diff.
All corvettes have electronic diffs now except the super base model.
#10
Rennlist Member
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I take it you have ZERO time in a 996 or 997 gt car with a worn stock diff. If you did or knew what you were referring to you'd not have posted this snarky comment.
Op: not much to do. Inspect rp inspect flange seals, cv, etc.
Op: not much to do. Inspect rp inspect flange seals, cv, etc.
#11
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+1 the trans doesn't come out so all you really can do is replace the seals. You can look at the wear on the ring and pinion and then decide if you need to do anything else. Chances are you will have it pulled out, rebuilt, and reinstalled, no more than 3-5 hours if the shop knows what they are doing.