Tow straps coming loose?
06-28-2016, 05:38 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
I agree with not crossing your straps. I went on several sites and they all advised against primarily due to the reason if one of them fails then it will not stop movement in the direction it is supposed to be stopping. Straps due wear, may want to check yours. I run my through the wheels and have to stop to retighten them after about 15 miles of the car bouncing around, the straps pull the wheels around to a more optimal angle creating slack from the original attachment.
The again it could be that old timers disease is catching up with you.
The again it could be that old timers disease is catching up with you.
06-28-2016, 05:39 PM
#17
I'm in....
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Rennlist Member
06-28-2016, 06:38 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
I agree with not crossing your straps. I went on several sites and they all advised against primarily due to the reason if one of them fails then it will not stop movement in the direction it is supposed to be stopping. Straps due wear, may want to check yours. I run my through the wheels and have to stop to retighten them after about 15 miles of the car bouncing around, the straps pull the wheels around to a more optimal angle creating slack from the original attachment.
The again it could be that old timers disease is catching up with you.
The again it could be that old timers disease is catching up with you.
One thing I found during this incident, is even with 3 straps, the car was still pretty fixed, but I didn't have any sudden stops either.
WRT old timers disease, I have to admit I was pretty tired after Chin. However, one of the few benefits of nearing 1/2 a century old is I am smart enough to prioritize properly loading and checking the trailer.
-Mike
06-28-2016, 11:50 PM
#19
Also, make sure you have at least 2 rounds of strapping in the ratchet. Its the strapping-to-strapping friction that does most of the work.
I remember watching "Ice Road Trucker" (ashamed to admit), and one of their policies was to check the strapping every 2 hours. Seems like a good policy. I usually stop within 1 hour after starting a trip. Then at every gas station, pits-stop or food stop, do a walk around of the trailer and physically check the straps.
06-29-2016, 08:53 AM
#20
Tow straps coming loose?
I stopped using the t or j hooks on my E46 M3. May have been the straps but after having them come out two times I didn't want to chance it anymore. Best thing would be to get D rings permanently attached to car. I go through wheels and haven't had alignment issues but that tends to scare a lot of people.
06-29-2016, 09:24 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
I don't like using the factor hook points because they depend on tension to stay attached. So I use Rennline tow rings fore and aft.
All tie down straps age and stretch over time and need to be replaced. Tie down straps exposed to UV e.g. on an open trailer age even faster. To be fair, two years isn't ancient though. Depends on exposure.
You were:
All tie down straps age and stretch over time and need to be replaced. Tie down straps exposed to UV e.g. on an open trailer age even faster. To be fair, two years isn't ancient though. Depends on exposure.
You were:
- Very, very lucky
- Very smart to routinely check your car whenever you stop
I strap my car down to the trailer using the factory hook points and crossing the straps to the opposite corner tie downs on my open trailer. The factory hook points are located just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels under the rocker panel. I use t-hooks that go into the factory slots. I've had this setup for almost 2 years.
I always check the trailer when I stop and have never found anything, until last Sunday. I tugged on a front strap and found it just a bit loose and upon walking back found one of the rear straps completely disconnected. The t-hook had completely come out of its slot and was just lying on the trailer.
I know it was tight when I loaded the car. Fortunately the car hadn't moved at all - I'm just glad I didn't have to do a panic stop, as only one rear strap and the parking brake would have been holding the car. I put the t-hook back in, tightened the strap and noted to keep checking the trailer when I stop.
When I got home, that same strap was still tight, except the handle had pulled up from the locked position. I'm starting to think that these straps have a lifetime and maybe it's time for new ones.
Is this just a fluke after a long race weekend, or something bigger? One thing I recall, is I hit the bump and the exit of the tunnel at TWS faster than I should and I saw the roof of the car bounce pretty hard - is it possible I bounced it hard enough for the t-hook to disengage?
Thanks
-Mike
I always check the trailer when I stop and have never found anything, until last Sunday. I tugged on a front strap and found it just a bit loose and upon walking back found one of the rear straps completely disconnected. The t-hook had completely come out of its slot and was just lying on the trailer.
I know it was tight when I loaded the car. Fortunately the car hadn't moved at all - I'm just glad I didn't have to do a panic stop, as only one rear strap and the parking brake would have been holding the car. I put the t-hook back in, tightened the strap and noted to keep checking the trailer when I stop.When I got home, that same strap was still tight, except the handle had pulled up from the locked position. I'm starting to think that these straps have a lifetime and maybe it's time for new ones.
Is this just a fluke after a long race weekend, or something bigger? One thing I recall, is I hit the bump and the exit of the tunnel at TWS faster than I should and I saw the roof of the car bounce pretty hard - is it possible I bounced it hard enough for the t-hook to disengage?
Thanks
-Mike
06-29-2016, 09:45 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
I stopped using the t or j hooks on my E46 M3. May have been the straps but after having them come out two times I didn't want to chance it anymore. Best thing would be to get D rings permanently attached to car. I go through wheels and haven't had alignment issues but that tends to scare a lot of people.
06-29-2016, 10:22 AM
#23
Race Car
fwiw, I use chains on the rear, cut to length w/ hooks , straps on the front, and a safety chain on the front.
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
06-29-2016, 10:28 AM
#24
Tow straps coming loose?
Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
In all the years I towed that car, i never ever had one of those hooks come loose. They are stupid simple and worked every single time. Which is why they are how the factory ties down cars.
06-29-2016, 10:37 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
You're right, the E46 may indeed be different. And when I stripped & caged my E36, I made sure to retain the e-brake for just this reason. I never wanted to leave it in gear on the trailer to avoid any chance of damaging the transmission.
06-29-2016, 10:41 AM
#26
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
fwiw, I use chains on the rear, cut to length w/ hooks , straps on the front, and a safety chain on the front.
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
06-29-2016, 12:31 PM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Since I bought the car with the trailer, I've never researched how to tie it down. VR showed me how to do it when I picked it up and frankly, the technique has been simple, fast, and effective. I'm guessing the straps are at least 5 years old.
I think I figured out what happened. I have since read several references to check the T-hooks after tensioning to make sure they are not about to fall out. The t-hooks rely on the crossed straps to stay engaged as they need an eighth of turn to keep from dropping out. I have had the hooks fall out during tensioning. It makes sense that a hook could rotate to fall through the hole, but have enough tension to not actually drop out during the tensioning process. Think of holding a tape measure using tension and the hook at the end - it works but it isn't real stable. One good bump would be enough to get it to drop. I've never checked the t-hooks after tensioning. The probability of tightening the hook enough for it not to drop out during tensioning without being rotated properly is low - most of the time it just falls out. Adding a final t-hook check would eliminate this risk.
New straps, and a check of the t-hooks after tensioning should solve the problem. For belts and suspenders, I could use two of the old straps on the tow hooks as backup.
From my research, the t-hook cross strap method is the preferred method for E36/E46 BMWs.
-Mike
I think I figured out what happened. I have since read several references to check the T-hooks after tensioning to make sure they are not about to fall out. The t-hooks rely on the crossed straps to stay engaged as they need an eighth of turn to keep from dropping out. I have had the hooks fall out during tensioning. It makes sense that a hook could rotate to fall through the hole, but have enough tension to not actually drop out during the tensioning process. Think of holding a tape measure using tension and the hook at the end - it works but it isn't real stable. One good bump would be enough to get it to drop. I've never checked the t-hooks after tensioning. The probability of tightening the hook enough for it not to drop out during tensioning without being rotated properly is low - most of the time it just falls out. Adding a final t-hook check would eliminate this risk.
New straps, and a check of the t-hooks after tensioning should solve the problem. For belts and suspenders, I could use two of the old straps on the tow hooks as backup.
From my research, the t-hook cross strap method is the preferred method for E36/E46 BMWs.
-Mike
06-29-2016, 01:36 PM
#28
WRONGLY ACCUSED!
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fwiw, I use chains on the rear, cut to length w/ hooks , straps on the front, and a safety chain on the front.
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
the chains stop the car where I want it, then I get out and put the straps on the fronts. safety chain is somewhat loose. but has a captive 'dog' for the hook.
-similar product
http://www.walmart.com/ip/48360190?w...132769&veh=sem
I chain my car fore and aft and than strap it down.
I have once or twice had a strap looser than I could have wished, but they have never come undone.
With chains if everything goes to hell they will still hold the car in place.
06-29-2016, 01:52 PM
#29
Race Car
^1+ -not sure why you'd chain the fronts vs rears.... (unless backing on trl?)
-Because of the angle, (or something), my rear chains are not exactly the same tightness. one is under load (and stopped the car) and the other is fairly tight.
-probably the car is not perfectly centered, side to side...
also I don't cross anything. so far so good...
-Because of the angle, (or something), my rear chains are not exactly the same tightness. one is under load (and stopped the car) and the other is fairly tight.
-probably the car is not perfectly centered, side to side...
also I don't cross anything. so far so good...