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Old 03-26-2016, 07:30 PM
  #46  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by audipwr1
Diagonal helps more than you might think

Drive 400 miles non crossed and then do them crossed

Non crossed I bet you will see one or two straps loose from the car shifting
I cross mine in front because there is plenty of a distance so β stays reasonable
never cross the rear because like the op's rig β gets too big

never a problem w/ side movement,

Yes the straps tend to loosen a bit, I put that down to stretch.

As β increases and approaches 90 a approaches 0
Old 03-26-2016, 08:57 PM
  #47  
rlm328
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Originally Posted by schaibaa
They are very close to the end of the trailer already. This pic is with the car loaded too far forward. I suppose I actually moved it back about 8".


You may want to try a fixed strap length in the rear using the front straps to snug up the car. A lot of people use fixed in front and snug with the rear, there is no reason why the reverse will not work.

I do not believe in crossing strap, especially in back, if for whatever reason you have a failure on one strap there is nothing to keep the car from moving forward.
Old 03-27-2016, 01:35 AM
  #48  
ShakeNBake
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I've been towing with an 8045 for 4 years now. RS then GT4. It's an awesome trailer, and I think you will come to love it. Love your car BTW.

As people have pointed out, you have WAY too much weight on the tongue. you should be shooting for about 700-800, I'd guess you have 1500+. You also need the hitch to be 19", it's too low, which is why the suspension on the trailer looks like it does.

The 8045 is setup for a 911 or much shorter car. You can actually move the axles forward to help with the weight distribution of a car with the CG much further forward. TailEX has amazing support, they can help you get it figured out. If you have or can find corner weights for the car, and along with the wheelbase, you should be able to calculate where the axles should be, along with the position of the car. PM me if I can be of assistance. I have a model of the trailer to help figure out the position of the car/axle, etc - but first talk to TailEX.
Old 03-27-2016, 03:00 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
Yes the straps tend to loosen a bit, I put that down to stretch.
The straps should not loosen at all if they are tightened properly. Nor should they stretch enough to cause them to loosen. The material is designed to not stretch.

There is a video on Mac's site that says you need to get two full wraps around the mandrels which is about six full cranks of the handle. I had a problem with my straps getting loose. I was not getting those two full wraps around the mandrels. Now I get at least that many and my straps never come loose now.
Old 03-27-2016, 03:01 AM
  #50  
ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by winders
The straps should not loosen at all if they are tightened properly. Nor should they stretch enough to cause them to loosen. The material is designed to not stretch.

There is a video on Mac's site that says you need to get two full wraps around the mandrels which is about six full cranks of the handle. I had a problem with my straps getting loose. I was not getting those two full wraps around the mandrels. Now I get at least that many and my straps never come loose now.
Of you are tiring to wheels, wheels move, and they loosen.
Old 03-27-2016, 03:27 AM
  #51  
Martin S.
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Originally Posted by audipwr1
Go 24ft - those extra 4 feet make a huge difference
I know that 24' is the way to go...I just don't want to spend that extra $$$, nor do I want to buy a new tow rig. I have towed a 20' enclosed before, and it was just fine for me...true, no cabinets....that extra 4', but I'll make do....appreciate the advice.
Old 03-27-2016, 08:51 AM
  #52  
schaibaa
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
I've been towing with an 8045 for 4 years now. RS then GT4. It's an awesome trailer, and I think you will come to love it. Love your car BTW.

As people have pointed out, you have WAY too much weight on the tongue. you should be shooting for about 700-800, I'd guess you have 1500+. You also need the hitch to be 19", it's too low, which is why the suspension on the trailer looks like it does.

The 8045 is setup for a 911 or much shorter car. You can actually move the axles forward to help with the weight distribution of a car with the CG much further forward. TailEX has amazing support, they can help you get it figured out. If you have or can find corner weights for the car, and along with the wheelbase, you should be able to calculate where the axles should be, along with the position of the car. PM me if I can be of assistance. I have a model of the trailer to help figure out the position of the car/axle, etc - but first talk to TailEX.
Thanks a lot for the reply and sending some love for the car. I do like it too and it seems to get a lot of love from others.

I have been talking to Carl at Trailex and he has been helpful - I also try to source some information from forums because I don't want to be his neediest customer

I was under the trailer yesterday and definitely see how the axles can move. It looks like the wiring might need to move a bit too but nothing too extreme.

THANKS for the offer!!! Here are my corner weights - posting here as they may be of interest for others.

Old 03-27-2016, 11:48 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Martin S.
I know that 24' is the way to go...I just don't want to spend that extra $$$, nor do I want to buy a new tow rig. I have towed a 20' enclosed before, and it was just fine for me...true, no cabinets....that extra 4', but I'll make do....appreciate the advice.
You'll be sorry. As far as towing goes, there's not much difference between the 20' and the 24'. If you don't need a new tow rig for the 20', I doubt you'd need one for the 24' unless you're already pushing the envelope with the 20' in which case you should just get a new tow rig and a 24'. (Not my money I'm spending here The extra room is so worth it, and it will be easier to sell one day. The escape door is nice, but I was told by a dealer that the one that has the removable fender is not completely water tight. The older swing open style is nice, but the ATC wheel wells are pretty high and I ended up with a small trailer mate race ramp to raise the front of the car 2" to be able to open the door over the wheel well. Worth it though, because it is 1000x easier to get in and out of the car. You'll love the trailer, well made, great features.
Old 03-27-2016, 11:54 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by winders
The straps should not loosen at all if they are tightened properly. Nor should they stretch enough to cause them to loosen. The material is designed to not stretch.

There is a video on Mac's site that says you need to get two full wraps around the mandrels which is about six full cranks of the handle. I had a problem with my straps getting loose. I was not getting those two full wraps around the mandrels. Now I get at least that many and my straps never come loose now.
all straps stretch, Polyester less so than nylon , but they all stretch. Most tie down straps are Polyester and most recovery straps are nylon.

Even the best high performance Dynema, Vectran, and Zylon(PBO) stretch

This is the reason harness manufacturer want their safety harnesses as short as possible. Same reasoning applies to cargo tiedowns.

I spent 30 years sailing semi pro and am very familiar w/ the friction and stretch characteristics of these materials. On a sail boat the long length of the lines exacerbates any stretch that is present, same w/ tying the boats to a trailer, very long straps are needed stretch and vibration are big issues.

Old 03-27-2016, 12:46 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
all straps stretch, Polyester less so than nylon , but they all stretch. Most tie down straps are Polyester and most recovery straps are nylon.

Even the best high performance Dynema, Vectran, and Zylon(PBO) stretch

This is the reason harness manufacturer want their safety harnesses as short as possible. Same reasoning applies to cargo tiedowns.

I spent 30 years sailing semi pro and am very familiar w/ the friction and stretch characteristics of these materials. On a sail boat the long length of the lines exacerbates any stretch that is present, same w/ tying the boats to a trailer, very long straps are needed stretch and vibration are big issues.

Bill,

We don't need your resume and we are not tying down sail boats here.

Notice I said "stretch enough to cause them to loosen". They are designed to not stretch but they all stretch a bit. In our car trailer application, they should not "stretch enough to cause them to loosen" just driving down the road if they are "tightened properly".
Old 03-27-2016, 09:37 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by audipwr1
Diagonal helps more than you might think

Drive 400 miles non crossed and then do them crossed

Non crossed I bet you will see one or two straps loose from the car shifting
I have an open Trailex and have never crossed the straps. Don't like putting so much cross-stress/force on the suspension and risking to mess up or loosen the alignment. As for loosened straps, the proper procedure is to stop 5-10mins after starting the trip (typically right before you get on the highway) and re-tighten all straps. If this is followed, the straps should be as tight as you left them.



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