Trailer Question
03-25-2016, 09:49 PM
#31
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03-25-2016, 10:24 PM
#32
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IMHO - You will need to cross the rear straps and (preferably) find some different tie down points on the chasis than your wheels because your car still seems to be too far forward. I can tie down my 911 that way, but not my mid engine Cayman. A front engine car would need to go even further back.
03-25-2016, 10:35 PM
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IMHO - You will need to cross the rear straps and (preferably) find some different tie down points on the chasis than your wheels because your car still seems to be too far forward. I can tie down my 911 that way, but not my mid engine Cayman. A front engine car would need to go even further back.
If I can move the axles about 12" forward, that would really help.
03-26-2016, 06:36 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by schaibaa
Really hoping I won't have to cross the rears, but it is looking that way. They are so close to the D rings that the majority of the tension is lateral when crossed.
If I can move the axles about 12" forward, that would really help.
If I can move the axles about 12" forward, that would really help.
03-26-2016, 09:00 AM
#35
WRT crossing the rear ties
β is the angle that the strap makes from straight back
the force in the strap can be resolved into 2 perpendicular parts
a is the force that stops the car from rolling forward or backward, this is the important one
b is the force that stops the rear of the car from moving side to side, this is unimportant as the tires do the vast majority of the work in this direction
as β increases
a decreases and b increases
Is that really what you want??
β is the angle that the strap makes from straight back
the force in the strap can be resolved into 2 perpendicular parts
a is the force that stops the car from rolling forward or backward, this is the important one
b is the force that stops the rear of the car from moving side to side, this is unimportant as the tires do the vast majority of the work in this direction
as β increases
a decreases and b increases
Is that really what you want??
03-26-2016, 11:42 AM
#36
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So clearly the car needs to ride a foot back from the front. I generally put front engine cars as far back as possible as trailex's are generally set up for rear engine cars. Regarding the straps being at an inconvenient angle, someone is going to make a corvette solution. For our 911's, someone manufactures tie down loops that permanently attach to sub frame bolts. They attach a little inboard of the wheels but not so far that Bill's "force b" becomes problematic. I would think a 5 minute search on corvette boards would yield the answer.
03-26-2016, 11:55 AM
#37
WRT crossing the rear ties β is the angle that the strap makes from straight back the force in the strap can be resolved into 2 perpendicular parts a is the force that stops the car from rolling forward or backward, this is the important one b is the force that stops the rear of the car from moving side to side, this is unimportant as the tires do the vast majority of the work in this direction as β increases a decreases and b increases Is that really what you want??
^^^KEY POINT
I never cross the rear tie downs.
03-26-2016, 12:23 PM
#38
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So clearly the car needs to ride a foot back from the front. I generally put front engine cars as far back as possible as trailex's are generally set up for rear engine cars. Regarding the straps being at an inconvenient angle, someone is going to make a corvette solution. For our 911's, someone manufactures tie down loops that permanently attach to sub frame bolts. They attach a little inboard of the wheels but not so far that Bill's "force b" becomes problematic. I would think a 5 minute search on corvette boards would yield the answer.
03-26-2016, 12:56 PM
#39
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03-26-2016, 01:05 PM
#40
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WRT crossing the rear ties β is the angle that the strap makes from straight back the force in the strap can be resolved into 2 perpendicular parts a is the force that stops the car from rolling forward or backward, this is the important one b is the force that stops the rear of the car from moving side to side, this is unimportant as the tires do the vast majority of the work in this direction as β increases a decreases and b increases Is that really what you want??
Drive 400 miles non crossed and then do them crossed
Non crossed I bet you will see one or two straps loose from the car shifting
03-26-2016, 01:33 PM
#41
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On my steel deck I had to cross the fronts. On my new to me trailex I have to cross the rears to get the car positioned correctly. Only have one trip with the new trailer but while I would prefer not to cross them I'd be pretty shocked to have a real problem that way.
03-26-2016, 03:04 PM
#42
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Conversely, on my Cayman, I go through the wheels have had straps come loose when utilizing a straight pull. I am adding the Rennline tiedown hooks so hopefully, it will make it more secure.
03-26-2016, 03:57 PM
#43
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My Trailer Experience (Long)
There may be a glimmer of insight here, things I have learned by incorporating my personal 3X rule when it comes to cars, example, I am on my 3rd suspension after the stock, have had 3X + muffler systems, 3X Data Loggers, 3X+ race seats, 3X+ different tire and wheel brands, so it it should be no surprise that I am about to unpack on my fourth var hauler, from Haulmark 20' enclosed, to Featherlite 3110 17' 6" car trailer, to Trailex CT 8045...sold all of these, and now my latest an all aluminum Becker 20' enclosed with a drivers side escape door, awesome.
On all three (3) trailers I have had, Haulmark 20' enclosed, Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110, Trailex CT 8045 14.6' for the square area of the bed, I crossed the front straps, and went straight back on the rears. I also attached the straps to the tub of the 911.
Trailering History : First I started with a 20' Hallmark, bought it used. It weighed 3,000 Lbs dry. I used a weight distribution hitch and added some auxiliary springs to the rear of my 2006 4.7 V* Tundra: It towed like a dream and kept me out of the weather at the track. But the view to the rear was always scary, just didn't know what was back there...compare to towing an open trailer. Kept it for over 10 years....started lusting for the simplicity of an open trailer, better view to the rear, better mileage, easier aess to the drivers door to get the car in and out of the trailer, etc.
A Featherlite Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110, popped up at an estate sale...I bought it and sold my Hallmark, broke even on the sale. Who doesn't want a Feratherlite, all the Big Boys have them!
But a few months later, I got the hots for a Trailex open trailer...300 Lbs lighter, supposedly easier to tow, and it was bolted together, no welds to crack. I could live with the square of the deck being 3' shorter than the Featherlite, couldn't I? The open Trailex bottom gives you access to the under side of the cars for simple repairs. I call BS on this...jack stands provide far better access. And with the Trailex, you can have a tire rack and and a wind screen, nearly impossible to easily mount both on a Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110. However, the Trailex Tire Rack is mounted very high detrimental for streamlining (mileage) and tough on the back schlepping 50 Lb tires high up into the air.
Trailex: As to placement of the spare and a Trailex tool box, really think through where you will mount them. The way I stupidly mounted the box and the spare aft to the the trailing axel (Factory recommendation), it became nearly impossible to hook up the rear of my 993 standing up. I had to crawl under the car to make the rear connection. Not so much fun in the rain
Compared to the Featherlite....the Trailex
1. Was 300 Lbs lighter, definitely a plus, providing an added 3 to 4 mpg,
up to 12 from 9 mpg.
2. Could mount windscreeen and tire rack on the Trailex, but that damn tire rack scrapes the sky providing more drag. Don't know how much as I didn't add a tire rack to my Trailex. But, with the Featherlite, I did have a custom tire rack installed, and because of the extra bed length, it could be mounted lower to the bed, providing for optimal streamlining, saving my back, and at the same time, I could balance the position of the car for optimal tongue weight,
4. The longer Featherlite allowed me to but a storage box on the tongue, and because of the sold deck, I could tie down a plastic storage box, two if need me. Not so with the Trailex, need to add the box aft of the trailer fender, NOT a good idea
5. With the Trailex open deck, it is difficult to but a spare box ahead of the car
6. The Featherlite ramps are easier to pull out and engage, but they are shorter than the Trailex. This may be a problem with super low cars and ramp extensions may be required. The Featherlite ramps are wider than the Trailex, a comfort factor.
7. The Featherlite ramps can be bolted in place for travel, not the case with trailer. They can rattle around when towing empty, a little annoying.
8. Brakes: The Trailex came with Hydraulic Override, touted to be simple, put there is no gradual breaking in most cases, they either on, or they are off. When they kick in with a 3,900 Lb load behind your tow vehicle, you'll experience a wee bit of a pucker factor. You also need to maintain the hydraulic system, another chore. Electric brakes were an option...the previous owner did not choose them.
The Featherlite came with "Electric Brakes.....Through a controller mounted in your vehicle, electric brakes apply a constant and variable amount of braking on your trailer. Your trailer is braking and not pushing your vehicle which is a huge benefit. Electric brakes are smoother and safer especially in off road situations. The brakes can also be manually applied via the controller in you vehicle, great for drying out brakes after a water crossing. Also if you are in a situation where you are descending in low range in a low gear you can apply trailer braking manually as and when required to take the load off the vehicle."
Both Featherlite and Trailex open trailers have their unique features. But having experienced both brands, , their top of the line open trailers, I have concluded, the enclosed is best for me. If for no other reason than security and weather protection. I am having a Becker/ATX 20' enclosed trailer built for me. It has an escape door feature that is awesome, in my opinion. 2,700 Lbs try, all aluminum and all wired up for shore power, when available.
http://www.beckercustomtrailers.com/...door-carhauler I am also installing a Reese weight distribution hitch...want to tongue weigh to be optimal. that 10 to 15% #.
On all three (3) trailers I have had, Haulmark 20' enclosed, Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110, Trailex CT 8045 14.6' for the square area of the bed, I crossed the front straps, and went straight back on the rears. I also attached the straps to the tub of the 911.
Trailering History : First I started with a 20' Hallmark, bought it used. It weighed 3,000 Lbs dry. I used a weight distribution hitch and added some auxiliary springs to the rear of my 2006 4.7 V* Tundra: It towed like a dream and kept me out of the weather at the track. But the view to the rear was always scary, just didn't know what was back there...compare to towing an open trailer. Kept it for over 10 years....started lusting for the simplicity of an open trailer, better view to the rear, better mileage, easier aess to the drivers door to get the car in and out of the trailer, etc.
A Featherlite Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110, popped up at an estate sale...I bought it and sold my Hallmark, broke even on the sale. Who doesn't want a Feratherlite, all the Big Boys have them!
But a few months later, I got the hots for a Trailex open trailer...300 Lbs lighter, supposedly easier to tow, and it was bolted together, no welds to crack. I could live with the square of the deck being 3' shorter than the Featherlite, couldn't I? The open Trailex bottom gives you access to the under side of the cars for simple repairs. I call BS on this...jack stands provide far better access. And with the Trailex, you can have a tire rack and and a wind screen, nearly impossible to easily mount both on a Featherlite 17' 6" car trailer 3110. However, the Trailex Tire Rack is mounted very high detrimental for streamlining (mileage) and tough on the back schlepping 50 Lb tires high up into the air.
Trailex: As to placement of the spare and a Trailex tool box, really think through where you will mount them. The way I stupidly mounted the box and the spare aft to the the trailing axel (Factory recommendation), it became nearly impossible to hook up the rear of my 993 standing up. I had to crawl under the car to make the rear connection. Not so much fun in the rain
Compared to the Featherlite....the Trailex
1. Was 300 Lbs lighter, definitely a plus, providing an added 3 to 4 mpg,
up to 12 from 9 mpg.
2. Could mount windscreeen and tire rack on the Trailex, but that damn tire rack scrapes the sky providing more drag. Don't know how much as I didn't add a tire rack to my Trailex. But, with the Featherlite, I did have a custom tire rack installed, and because of the extra bed length, it could be mounted lower to the bed, providing for optimal streamlining, saving my back, and at the same time, I could balance the position of the car for optimal tongue weight,
4. The longer Featherlite allowed me to but a storage box on the tongue, and because of the sold deck, I could tie down a plastic storage box, two if need me. Not so with the Trailex, need to add the box aft of the trailer fender, NOT a good idea
5. With the Trailex open deck, it is difficult to but a spare box ahead of the car
6. The Featherlite ramps are easier to pull out and engage, but they are shorter than the Trailex. This may be a problem with super low cars and ramp extensions may be required. The Featherlite ramps are wider than the Trailex, a comfort factor.
7. The Featherlite ramps can be bolted in place for travel, not the case with trailer. They can rattle around when towing empty, a little annoying.
8. Brakes: The Trailex came with Hydraulic Override, touted to be simple, put there is no gradual breaking in most cases, they either on, or they are off. When they kick in with a 3,900 Lb load behind your tow vehicle, you'll experience a wee bit of a pucker factor. You also need to maintain the hydraulic system, another chore. Electric brakes were an option...the previous owner did not choose them.
The Featherlite came with "Electric Brakes.....Through a controller mounted in your vehicle, electric brakes apply a constant and variable amount of braking on your trailer. Your trailer is braking and not pushing your vehicle which is a huge benefit. Electric brakes are smoother and safer especially in off road situations. The brakes can also be manually applied via the controller in you vehicle, great for drying out brakes after a water crossing. Also if you are in a situation where you are descending in low range in a low gear you can apply trailer braking manually as and when required to take the load off the vehicle."
Both Featherlite and Trailex open trailers have their unique features. But having experienced both brands, , their top of the line open trailers, I have concluded, the enclosed is best for me. If for no other reason than security and weather protection. I am having a Becker/ATX 20' enclosed trailer built for me. It has an escape door feature that is awesome, in my opinion. 2,700 Lbs try, all aluminum and all wired up for shore power, when available.
http://www.beckercustomtrailers.com/...door-carhauler I am also installing a Reese weight distribution hitch...want to tongue weigh to be optimal. that 10 to 15% #.