Spyerx

Figure I'd post this here ... I do a partial bleed after every couple track days, mainly because it forces me to remove wheels and give a good look at the brakes, suspension, links, clean out track boogers from the brakes, etc... Car is 07 RS with 380mm front brakes (big ones, same as 997.2 cars and 997 cup cars)

Driver front inner bleed screw was feeling a little balky. When I first got the car I had the brakes bled with endless (a while ago) and that shop really cranked down the bleeders...

I can tighten it down but it doesn't feel like it wants to 'cinch'. I use a flare wrench and tighten these until they just start to cinch down, by no means over-torquing.

Anyway, so I order a new set of bleed nuts, install yesterday, and it threads in fine with no resistance, cleaned out the hole and it LOOKS ok, and the old bleeder valve looks OK, but when I go to torque it, just feels like it is starting to strip. It's not leaking even when standing on the pedal nor after a track day.

But I don't trust it.

So, options:
--Get shop to chase it with a 10x1 thread chase and see if that fixes (this is the ONE thread chase I DONT HAVE!!!!!!)
--replace the caliper $$$$
--time sert by a machine shop? $$

Looking at time serts there is a 6mm high M10 x 1mm thread insert. The threads on the OEM bleeder are about 7.5mm high. So seems like this could work. Would need to be done in a drill press at perfect angles or seat won't work... so I won't attempt at home, let a machine shop do it.

Thoughts?

Not happy, track weekends coming up.

TRAKCAR

Don't risk it.
I had one come off, lest corner great, next corner nothing..
It was a rough ride and very close call.

madmurdock

You can buy a 10mm tap from McMaster.com

You can also try putting a conical seal on the end of the bleeder screw and see if that resolves the issue. I'm not sure if the bleeder is a AN 37 degree fitting or JIC, but this place should have them. http://www.flaretite.com/flaretite.php. I used these seals when plumbing a pedal box. Copper for steel fittings and aluminum for aluminum fittings.

Worst case would be having a machinist repair the threads. This place makes high quality inserts. http://fulltorque.com

Good luck!

24Chromium

I've had the same happen. The best fix is an insert. Remember that the caliper is aluminum, so it's softer and more prone to stripping. The insert is typically stainless steel and therefore much more durable.

If you're having a shop do the work, you might consider doing all of the calipers all at once.

Spyerx

Chromium, appreciate this. Did SP do this for you or did you bring to a machinist? If Chasen did would like to ping him on what he used... i'd have him do if he was local!!!

If I do a time-sert, I'm going to replace the 2 on this caliper and replace the screws on all the others. They seem fine.

Matt Romanowski

Chasing the threads won't help. you could put a thread insert in (timesert or helicoil). Some companies make a steel insert so the bleader that you are torquing goes into a steel insert instead of the aluminum caliper. This one won't work for you, but something like this https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9836

Spyerx

Now THAT is a cool piece of kit to keep the threads in the aluminum clean.

Any idea if this fits in the porsche calipers? I may just put those on all of the bleeders after I get this busted one taken care of...

Thanks

linzman

The guy I bought my car from had repaired one stripped bleeder with a brake bleeder repair kit similar to this (not sure what size, but you get the idea).
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman/326/139...FUgA7AodoGQAWg

It worked well, and would be perfect for a street car, but it made bleeding a lot more painful. Since the nipple was smaller, my bleeder hose didn't fit well and it would leak. It required a different size wrench. Every once in a while, the "sleeve" piece would loosen instead of the bleeder, requiring yet a third wrench size to tighten it back up. Not the end of the world, but a pain, especially when you're in a hurry and scrambling to find the 3 wrenches instead of 1 Although more expensive, I would go with the machine shop permanent sleeve solution. Worth the lack of aggravation in my book.

Spyerx

^^^^ Appreciate the response on those fix kits. My intent is to fix it right or replace the caliper and do this right since this car sees about 70% track and 30% street use right now. Unfortunately for my wallet these issues tend to turn into opportunities for an upgrade (but the oem gt3 brakes are really, really good...I don't need that brembo kit!). Last time I had a shock go out, the only other issue I had with the car, I ended up with an Ohlins/motorsport/erp mono ball setup LOL.

Anyway, the trick now is finding a quality machinist to get the job done. Pulling caliper is the easy part. Will call shop in a couple hours to see who they suggest. Unfortunately the 2 race shops I like around here are all off to SEMA this morning!

Question for those who know these: Helicoil or timesert better? Timesert LOOKS like a stronger product but who knows... I should be able to get both kits locally here in LA if the machinist doesn't have them.

Matt Romanowski

The Alcon pieces might work best. They look like they are fine pipe thread with the insert. You could make those work.

Also try calling these guys. They probably have a solution www.hayworthracingbrakes.com/

linzman

Or these guys http://www.vehiclecraft.com Fixed my old 930 caliper for me. Had the same problem. it was never a problem again.

RobT 394

If you elect to use an insert then use a time-cert and not a helicoil. A few of the other ideas Matt put out there look they would do the trick.