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open trailer tie down question

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Old 07-06-2013, 12:24 PM
  #61  
dan212
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I use the tie down rings all around. Easy to attach, doesn't interfere with jack and unlike using front jacking point - doesn't depend on tension to stay on.

(just One strap failure will show how important this can be )

Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
Agree with many, do NOT leave car in gear. Set parking brake since you have one and why not leave the winch attached with a touch of slack. Cheap insurance.

I like the Rennline hooks in the rear, but I need my jacking point up front. I just hook behind the front jacking point (not into the hole). It's hollow and the strap-hook fits nicely. I've towed a variety of P-cars this way with out any issues.....
Old 07-07-2013, 04:25 PM
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gvtesse
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Originally Posted by kormaster
I'll be using rennline tow plate on my 997 front and back. Cross fronts and straight/cross tie the rear. As redundancy, I will hook ties to wheels (w those cushion padded ties). This is all to the 4 D rings in each corner.
I didn't realize there were different angle plates. Which ones did you end up using? TIA
Old 07-09-2013, 01:00 AM
  #63  
DC640
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for 997 GT3

60 degree rear tow plate/hook is that i recieved. Front tow plate = super easy to install. Unscrew the underbody panel nut, pull down the underbody panel, squeeze in the red tow plate.. tighten the nut like there is no tomorrow. The tow hook will face diagonally to make Criss crossing your ties easier.

Now, the rear one is tricky. I do see the subframe bolt behind the sway bar. I think i have to remove the sway bar to gain access to the bolt. If i unbolt the 2 nuts holding the sway bar, does that loose any tension on the whole sway bar to a point where i cant just rebolt it in? I dont have a lift.. just conventional jack/jackstand.
Old 07-09-2013, 01:27 AM
  #64  
32krazy!
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Originally Posted by kormaster
for 997 GT3

60 degree rear tow plate/hook is that i recieved. Front tow plate = super easy to install. Unscrew the underbody panel nut, pull down the underbody panel, squeeze in the red tow plate.. tighten the nut like there is no tomorrow. The tow hook will face diagonally to make Criss crossing your ties easier.

Now, the rear one is tricky. I do see the subframe bolt behind the sway bar. I think i have to remove the sway bar to gain access to the bolt. If i unbolt the 2 nuts holding the sway bar, does that loose any tension on the whole sway bar to a point where i cant just rebolt it in? I dont have a lift.. just conventional jack/jackstand.
on my 996 turbo the nut is facing the rear of the car so i didnt have to remove any sway bar bolts. just undid the nut installed the 60* rennline mount and tighten the nut back. done.
Old 07-09-2013, 03:41 AM
  #65  
DC640
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Mine covers the bolt =( behind it... Unless I'm looking at something totally different.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:31 PM
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Winnidude
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Mine just arrived today and will be installing tomorrow and will post any issues with the sway bar removal. I have a GMG sway bar which shows more of that bolt, but removing the 4 bolts of the sway bar looks straight forward.
Old 07-22-2013, 04:36 PM
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Winnidude
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Installed these over weekend, super easy job. Taking off sway bar to get at bolts was easy, just remove the 4 bolts, it moves freely, bolt on hooks and put back sway bar. Threw on the trailer and what a difference to use over wheels straps. Highly recommend these.
Old 07-22-2013, 05:24 PM
  #68  
scott40
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Originally Posted by kormaster
for 997 GT3

Now, the rear one is tricky. I do see the subframe bolt behind the sway bar. I think i have to remove the sway bar to gain access to the bolt. If i unbolt the 2 nuts holding the sway bar, does that loose any tension on the whole sway bar to a point where i cant just rebolt it in? I dont have a lift.. just conventional jack/jackstand.
I just did this on RS yesterday. Just loosen bolt from the back and pull forward, remove nut, slide toe hook on and tighten. You do not need to remove the sway bar. Takes 5 minutes per side. Much easier with car on a lift.



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