open trailer tie down question
06-23-2013, 02:55 PM
#31
its a basket style and wraps tightley over the top of the wheel. when tightened down theres zero movement in any direction. if you wanted you can spread the ratchets father apart for a A PULL style. i havent seen the need as i tow my car to all my track events as far away as 400 miles and have never had to tighten a single strap after the intial tightening.
06-23-2013, 04:46 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
im a 14 yr automotive car hauler. i have logged over 2 million miles and never lost a car. so heres what you need to do.
buy 2 of these for the rear of the car as you will back the car on trailer to center the weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Hauler-S...e70641&vxp=mtr
use 2 regular tie down straps for the front using the rennline tie down points in a x pattern.
leave the car in neutral and use the handbrake if you have it. if not it doesnt matter.
adjust the rears and slightly tighten both sodes then tighten the front. go back to the rears and finish tightening the straps.
once this is done i never have to tighten my straps again until i unload the car. i actaully have my car on my 18ft trailer and can take few pics sunday if you want. my car never moves the first inch . if done properly i can load my car strap it down and put the chairs away beofre my buddy can air his tires up with a small compressor.
once you have mastered all this ill show you how to wrap the excess strap so it never flaps and looks neat and no tie wraps, tape or rubber bands are needed
something that most inexperienced folks do when using a trailer is they fail to get the proper brake setup. most states require trailer brakes for EACH axle on a trailer and you then need a brake controller in the cab to adjust the brake bias from truck to trailer. cruising 70 down the interstate and having to stop with 5000 lbs pushing from behind you isnt much fun with inferior brakes
buy 2 of these for the rear of the car as you will back the car on trailer to center the weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Hauler-S...e70641&vxp=mtr
use 2 regular tie down straps for the front using the rennline tie down points in a x pattern.
leave the car in neutral and use the handbrake if you have it. if not it doesnt matter.
adjust the rears and slightly tighten both sodes then tighten the front. go back to the rears and finish tightening the straps.
once this is done i never have to tighten my straps again until i unload the car. i actaully have my car on my 18ft trailer and can take few pics sunday if you want. my car never moves the first inch . if done properly i can load my car strap it down and put the chairs away beofre my buddy can air his tires up with a small compressor.
once you have mastered all this ill show you how to wrap the excess strap so it never flaps and looks neat and no tie wraps, tape or rubber bands are needed
something that most inexperienced folks do when using a trailer is they fail to get the proper brake setup. most states require trailer brakes for EACH axle on a trailer and you then need a brake controller in the cab to adjust the brake bias from truck to trailer. cruising 70 down the interstate and having to stop with 5000 lbs pushing from behind you isnt much fun with inferior brakes
Get those for rear tires, then use rennline tow plate in X pattern for the fronts... Simple.. More secure than all 4 rennline tow plate
Is it over kill to add rear tow plate and tie them down for added security or it is pointless at that point?
06-23-2013, 06:16 PM
#33
"buy 2 of these for the rear of the car as you will back the car on trailer to center the weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Hauler-S...e70641&vxp=mtr"
Don't think works with Traiilex D rings? Am I missing something?
Don't think works with Traiilex D rings? Am I missing something?
06-23-2013, 07:29 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Right. I have never seen a Trailex open or enclosed loaded rear end first. Only two front and two rear D rings. You either tie down via Rennline tow hooks or through the wheels.
06-23-2013, 07:34 PM
#35
Banned
06-23-2013, 07:37 PM
#36
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
run the excess strap thru the handle and the release handle. loop it back thru the grab handle and tuck it again thru the release handle. make it even at both ends and neat. the handle pressure keeps everything ...
frank 993 c4s you can see how i wrap the excess straps in the first pic. its really easy
frank 993 c4s you can see how i wrap the excess straps in the first pic. its really easy
06-23-2013, 08:24 PM
#37
i hear many folks praise the trailex but my .02 would be a featherlight aluminum or a steel trailer with more tie down points. seems silly to me to have a trailer with only 4 places to secure a car, regardless of its weight.
btw most aluminum trailers weigh in at 1500 to 1800 lbs and my c channel lawrimore trailer weighs in at 2000 lbs. must be all the extra tie down points!
06-23-2013, 08:58 PM
#38
Race Car
I have a featherlight open, and 2 use chains with hooks for the rear, and 2 tie down straps in the front. for a long trip I'll add a single chain to the front as a backup. I feel chains in the high load area is better than straps.
you can also use the bathroom scale method to check the tongue weight.
+ check the level of the trailer, and drop the ball if needed.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-d...ue-weight.aspx
you can also use the bathroom scale method to check the tongue weight.
+ check the level of the trailer, and drop the ball if needed.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-d...ue-weight.aspx
06-23-2013, 09:19 PM
#39
Banned
06-23-2013, 09:51 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
regardless of what trailer you use you want the bulk of the weight on the front half of the trailer not the rear. of course with a rear engine car you back it on. as for the tie downs if you only have 4 drings as tie down points you would use 4 rennline tie down points and criss cross the front and rear to secure the vehicle.
i hear many folks praise the trailex but my .02 would be a featherlight aluminum or a steel trailer with more tie down points. seems silly to me to have a trailer with only 4 places to secure a car, regardless of its weight.
btw most aluminum trailers weigh in at 1500 to 1800 lbs and my c channel lawrimore trailer weighs in at 2000 lbs. must be all the extra tie down points!
i hear many folks praise the trailex but my .02 would be a featherlight aluminum or a steel trailer with more tie down points. seems silly to me to have a trailer with only 4 places to secure a car, regardless of its weight.
btw most aluminum trailers weigh in at 1500 to 1800 lbs and my c channel lawrimore trailer weighs in at 2000 lbs. must be all the extra tie down points!
06-23-2013, 10:04 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
regardless of what trailer you use you want the bulk of the weight on the front half of the trailer not the rear. of course with a rear engine car you back it on. as for the tie downs if you only have 4 drings as tie down points you would use 4 rennline tie down points and criss cross the front and rear to secure the vehicle.
i hear many folks praise the trailex but my .02 would be a featherlight aluminum or a steel trailer with more tie down points. seems silly to me to have a trailer with only 4 places to secure a car, regardless of its weight.
btw most aluminum trailers weigh in at 1500 to 1800 lbs and my c channel lawrimore trailer weighs in at 2000 lbs. must be all the extra tie down points!
i hear many folks praise the trailex but my .02 would be a featherlight aluminum or a steel trailer with more tie down points. seems silly to me to have a trailer with only 4 places to secure a car, regardless of its weight.
btw most aluminum trailers weigh in at 1500 to 1800 lbs and my c channel lawrimore trailer weighs in at 2000 lbs. must be all the extra tie down points!
06-24-2013, 08:41 AM
#42
i havent used a trailex but would be leery of a trailer that weighs 900 lbs doing the job for a 3000 lb car. my trailer is all c channel with steel decking. not light but pulls straight and can haul a 6000 lb truck on it if needed
06-24-2013, 08:45 AM
#43
do the trailex trailers come equipped with each axle brake setup and breakaway kits? what size ball is used on them? i use a 2 5/16 " ball on mine with locking pins. i also have ride rite airbags on my truck to allow me to level the rig and not have my headlights skyward. this also steadies the trailer and makes for a great ride
06-24-2013, 10:26 AM
#44
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
its not that your doing it wrong its that there may be a better way to do it. i use my trailer for other hauling , not just my car. so i wanted a stronger more versatile trailer. having only 4 tie downs really limits what you can do with the rig.
do the trailex trailers come equipped with each axle brake setup and breakaway kits? what size ball is used on them? i use a 2 5/16 " ball on mine with locking pins. i also have ride rite airbags on my truck to allow me to level the rig and not have my headlights skyward. this also steadies the trailer and makes for a great ride
do the trailex trailers come equipped with each axle brake setup and breakaway kits? what size ball is used on them? i use a 2 5/16 " ball on mine with locking pins. i also have ride rite airbags on my truck to allow me to level the rig and not have my headlights skyward. this also steadies the trailer and makes for a great ride
06-24-2013, 10:29 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
do the trailex trailers come equipped with each axle brake setup and breakaway kits? what size ball is used on them? i use a 2 5/16 " ball on mine with locking pins. i also have ride rite airbags on my truck to allow me to level the rig and not have my headlights skyward. this also steadies the trailer and makes for a great ride
