Removing side windows
#17
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I have a Spec Boxster with the doors fully gutted with a fiberglass shell top with no window framing at all. I made two transport/rain windows out of Plexiglas. I cut a large piece of cardboard to test fit the shape in the car and then used it as a stencil for the Plexiglas. I notched the rear of the window to sit on one of the roof support tabs on my cage (the red arrow in the first photo shows the notch). I also cut the front of the window to slide up into the vertical factory window seal that is part of the mirror housing.
Photo #1 shows the window and notch. The black thing is a rubber stopper I bolted to the window to use as a pull up handle and the green stripe is just a piece of tape to help see the window when it is off the car. To install, I slide the rear notch onto my cage tab (photo #2) which holds the rear in place. Then in photo #3 as I start to close the door, I line of the front of the window up into the vertical seal slot in the mirror housing and slide it upward into the slot. Then with the door fully closed, I pull up on the rubber stopper handle to snug the window into place.
To finish things off and ensure the best fit possible, I used a heat gun to bend the Plexiglas out slightly in certain areas to create a nice snug fit against the door. I don't have to use any other fasteners since the tight squeeze of the forward seal keeps the window firmly in place - even when the car is on the trailer bouncing around on bumpy roads.
Photo #1 shows the window and notch. The black thing is a rubber stopper I bolted to the window to use as a pull up handle and the green stripe is just a piece of tape to help see the window when it is off the car. To install, I slide the rear notch onto my cage tab (photo #2) which holds the rear in place. Then in photo #3 as I start to close the door, I line of the front of the window up into the vertical seal slot in the mirror housing and slide it upward into the slot. Then with the door fully closed, I pull up on the rubber stopper handle to snug the window into place.
To finish things off and ensure the best fit possible, I used a heat gun to bend the Plexiglas out slightly in certain areas to create a nice snug fit against the door. I don't have to use any other fasteners since the tight squeeze of the forward seal keeps the window firmly in place - even when the car is on the trailer bouncing around on bumpy roads.
#18
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my car is going to become a dedicated track car. getting ready to do a cage. i plan to gut the doors, remove the regulators, etc.
for the near term, i will drive it to / from track until i can figure out where to store a trailer.
with no glass in the doors, how do i keep the rain out when i'm off track? my car is a boxster, so no door frames like cup cars. do i go plexi with a pull strap or something to that extent?
for the near term, i will drive it to / from track until i can figure out where to store a trailer.
with no glass in the doors, how do i keep the rain out when i'm off track? my car is a boxster, so no door frames like cup cars. do i go plexi with a pull strap or something to that extent?
#19
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Originally Posted by hf1
Is there anyone that makes these or has a pair for sale?
#20
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5 hours open trailer tow during pouring rain is different from a 30min sprint race. Plus the driver's body covers the seat during a race -- it gets soaked by rain on the open trailer. Also, a lot of people just don't race in pouring rain -- too risky.
#21
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In my miata I have these brackets.
https://www.advanced-autosports.com/...s/window-mount
Which are simple bent aluminum that uses the factory holes in the glass and then it just goes back into window slot and hangs on the edge of the door.
https://www.advanced-autosports.com/...s/window-mount
Which are simple bent aluminum that uses the factory holes in the glass and then it just goes back into window slot and hangs on the edge of the door.
#22
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#23
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On my 987 Cayman (possibly different on 986), I plan to leave the windows in but remove everything else. All that's left in the door are the windows and tracks, and I can lift the windows up manually at the end of the day, for overnight parking, or trailering, if that's what you need.
I got the partially-built car that way and hadn't gotten around to removing the windows when I did a DE last month and found the setup very convenient.
Yeah, it might be a bit heavier, but I might have to add ballast anyway for SPC.
I got the partially-built car that way and hadn't gotten around to removing the windows when I did a DE last month and found the setup very convenient.
Yeah, it might be a bit heavier, but I might have to add ballast anyway for SPC.
#24
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my car is going to become a dedicated track car. getting ready to do a cage. i plan to gut the doors, remove the regulators, etc.
for the near term, i will drive it to / from track until i can figure out where to store a trailer.
with no glass in the doors, how do i keep the rain out when i'm off track? my car is a boxster, so no door frames like cup cars. do i go plexi with a pull strap or something to that extent?
for the near term, i will drive it to / from track until i can figure out where to store a trailer.
with no glass in the doors, how do i keep the rain out when i'm off track? my car is a boxster, so no door frames like cup cars. do i go plexi with a pull strap or something to that extent?
what you do is put a strap on the bottom mounting of the class and run it over the top of the door frame and then use a clip (like on a backpack ) and a sinch strap to tighten it up. that way, its stock-ish for security, fits all the seals, so it doesnt leak and easy to remove by just unclipping the window strap and remove the window on race day. i drove my car to many race days even lowering the window for the trip with the straps. this is the best way, as it uses your stock glass and makes the car appear to have windows when not in use on the track and protects it when its not on the track.
(i put the windows in at night with the cover on it at the track. or when trailering!.. especially if there is rain or wind, dust, condensation) . i can even lock the car securely, as the door locks still work, even though the doors are completely gutted like a GT3 cup car. (almost)
#25
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My shop made some Lexan windows that take 2 minutes to put in place for transport on open trailer and weather protection, work great. When shutting door, just carefully tuck top of lexan into channel around top. See photos.
#26
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with my idea, you dont need to make brackets and can use the stock glass.. the only problem is if that front guide area is a tight enough fit so that the frameless window doesnt flop around. that is a very nice solution though.. are their wing nunts to bolt the bottom parts to the door frame? maybe you could make two "holders" that the brackets fit into so you dont need bolts.