I guess it goes without saying that if newer was better we'd all be driving GT3s.

Thanks BTW Flat. You've just helped me make an important decision.

 

The steel arms are a VW Rabbit part - really old,LOL. They are also slightly lighter than the late aluminum arms, to boot. They are the practical solution, especially when properly reinforced. The shorter arms do have the downside of more camber loss, especially when lowered, though.

It's more the money part than the "newer" that keeps us out of GT3's ;-)

 

Well, I don't know about you, but I've always thought I'd have to put a sack over my head for safety before I'd drive a 911. Second only to the Karman Ghia, I believe it's the ugliest car I've ever seen.

I have to revise this. After further considertion, the ugliest car I've ever seen was a Citroen Maserati, circa 1978. Thing looked like an abalone shell. I always had this vision of a very fast armored slug whenever I saw one on the road.

 

Now then, the 930 on the other hand, even though a 911 derivative like the GT3, is truly a stunning looking car. If it weren't so tail happy I'd own one in a heartbeat.

 

See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...44-a-arms.html
Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.

 

Love my Pohlman arms....3 years ZERO issues.

...and Andy was the best to deal with to boot!

 

Replaced my worn Blaszak arms with Pohlman ones as well thanks this this thread! Andy was great to deal with.

 

Thanks to both you and Dwane for the testimonials, from the pictures it looks like you've spent some time on your suspension, always a good sign when evaluating a reference

It looks to me as if the choice between using the stock steal arms vs. the Pohlman arms then reduces to one of the cost to beef up the steel arms, otherwise from a price perspective the two are pretty equal. What about freedom of motion in the ball joints? It looks to me like the Pohlman arms might be less susceptible to binding up the ball joints?

 

Thanks, have to go look at mine, not sure I have that reinforcement.

A bit off topic but another failure can be the ball joint--don't ask how I know.


QUOTE="Kurt R;11945304"] See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...44-a-arms.html Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.[/QUOTE]

 

For 944 Cup, and the SP2 and SP 3 classes, the ways the rules will be interpreted is for the allowance of non stock pin lengths for control arms and the rules will be revised next year to clarify. For this season in the SP2 and 3 classes, we interpret the rules to allow a longer pin thru a non stock length, and/or with shims.

Longer pin lengths improve the ability to lower a car more, and still retain A arm angles which are closer to stock, minimizing binding and related failures. This interpretation does not apply to PCA stock classes.

The inner end links are not permitted to be adjustable for either class.

 

More info on the HS 44 arms:
https://www.facebook.com/highstrung44

Can also be bought direct by emailing: highstrung44@aol.com

 

Question about hardware. I assume you can reuse the bolt and nut where the HS44 A-arm connects to the crossmember. (?) what should be used where it attaches to the replacement caster block? What about the caster block replacement? Can it use the original bolts to the frame?
Thanks
Jay

 

Yes, use all factory bolts.