944 family aluminum control arms and ball joints: what is state of the situation?
#61
#62
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The steel arms are a VW Rabbit part - really old,LOL. They are also slightly lighter than the late aluminum arms, to boot. They are the practical solution, especially when properly reinforced. The shorter arms do have the downside of more camber loss, especially when lowered, though.
It's more the money part than the "newer" that keeps us out of GT3's ;-)
It's more the money part than the "newer" that keeps us out of GT3's ;-)
Last edited by Sterling Doc; 01-13-2015 at 11:45 PM.
#63
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I have to revise this. After further considertion, the ugliest car I've ever seen was a Citroen Maserati, circa 1978. Thing looked like an abalone shell. I always had this vision of a very fast armored slug whenever I saw one on the road.
Last edited by Pfc. Parts; 01-10-2015 at 10:46 PM.
#64
#65
Hates Family Guy
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See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...44-a-arms.html
Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.
Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.
#67
Three Wheelin'
#68
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It looks to me as if the choice between using the stock steal arms vs. the Pohlman arms then reduces to one of the cost to beef up the steel arms, otherwise from a price perspective the two are pretty equal. What about freedom of motion in the ball joints? It looks to me like the Pohlman arms might be less susceptible to binding up the ball joints?
#69
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Thanks, have to go look at mine, not sure I have that reinforcement.
A bit off topic but another failure can be the ball joint--don't ask how I know.
QUOTE="Kurt R;11945304"] See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...44-a-arms.html Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.[/QUOTE]
A bit off topic but another failure can be the ball joint--don't ask how I know.
QUOTE="Kurt R;11945304"] See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...44-a-arms.html Page 5 for a wrapped barrel.[/QUOTE]
#70
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For 944 Cup, and the SP2 and SP 3 classes, the ways the rules will be interpreted is for the allowance of non stock pin lengths for control arms and the rules will be revised next year to clarify. For this season in the SP2 and 3 classes, we interpret the rules to allow a longer pin thru a non stock length, and/or with shims.
Longer pin lengths improve the ability to lower a car more, and still retain A arm angles which are closer to stock, minimizing binding and related failures. This interpretation does not apply to PCA stock classes.
The inner end links are not permitted to be adjustable for either class.
Longer pin lengths improve the ability to lower a car more, and still retain A arm angles which are closer to stock, minimizing binding and related failures. This interpretation does not apply to PCA stock classes.
The inner end links are not permitted to be adjustable for either class.
#71
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Thanks to both you and Dwane for the testimonials, from the pictures it looks like you've spent some time on your suspension, always a good sign when evaluating a reference ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It looks to me as if the choice between using the stock steal arms vs. the Pohlman arms then reduces to one of the cost to beef up the steel arms, otherwise from a price perspective the two are pretty equal. What about freedom of motion in the ball joints? It looks to me like the Pohlman arms might be less susceptible to binding up the ball joints?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It looks to me as if the choice between using the stock steal arms vs. the Pohlman arms then reduces to one of the cost to beef up the steel arms, otherwise from a price perspective the two are pretty equal. What about freedom of motion in the ball joints? It looks to me like the Pohlman arms might be less susceptible to binding up the ball joints?
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#72
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Question about hardware. I assume you can reuse the bolt and nut where the HS44 A-arm connects to the crossmember. (?) what should be used where it attaches to the replacement caster block? What about the caster block replacement? Can it use the original bolts to the frame?
Thanks
Jay
Thanks
Jay
#73
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Question about hardware. I assume you can reuse the bolt and nut where the HS44 A-arm connects to the crossmember. (?) what should be used where it attaches to the replacement caster block? What about the caster block replacement? Can it use the original bolts to the frame?
Thanks
Jay
Thanks
Jay
Last edited by 944Cup; 04-18-2017 at 09:57 PM.