944 family aluminum control arms and ball joints: what is state of the situation?
10-16-2014, 05:26 PM
#46
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thanks for taking the time to share your experience....
you've presented quite a lot to think about. in the link above, I wasn't sure if they'd be boring the 968 arm to fit the larger joint on a part that wasn't designed to be bored, using a larger arm or doing something else... I'll have to move up the learning curve before going ahead.... but, the $1,236.00 price for something that's proven is looking a lot better.
you've presented quite a lot to think about. in the link above, I wasn't sure if they'd be boring the 968 arm to fit the larger joint on a part that wasn't designed to be bored, using a larger arm or doing something else... I'll have to move up the learning curve before going ahead.... but, the $1,236.00 price for something that's proven is looking a lot better.
10-16-2014, 07:57 PM
#47
Alan, this thread is what prompted me to have Andy Pohlman build me a set of arms for the 968. Same price as a set of new OEM arms, but with a bolt-on $15 VW ball joint. They also come with caster blocks, since his caster adjustment is a little different from the normal type. Tell him you want the 968 brake duct scoop tabs included.
01-05-2015, 08:52 PM
#49
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Base control arms with 3 piece Teflon lined rod ends and stock style ball joints
Retail $1150.00
Base control arms with 3 piece Teflon lined rod ends and non stock longer length ball joints.
Retail $1350.00
Powder coating basic colors $75.00
All control arms are available in late or early off-set
All control arms, price also includes solid caster block.
No other parts need be purchased for installation.
Shipping is $20.00 in the US
Last edited by 944Cup; 01-22-2015 at 12:38 PM.
01-09-2015, 07:20 AM
#50
Burning Brakes
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Updated price and option list for High Strung 44 control arms:
Base Arms with solid caster blocks and stock style ball joints, early or late offset $975.00
Add : Teflon lined moly rod ends $175.00
Adjustable ball joints $200.00
Fixed inner pivots $175.00
Powder coating basic colors $75.00
Shipping is $20.00 in the US
Base Arms with solid caster blocks and stock style ball joints, early or late offset $975.00
Add : Teflon lined moly rod ends $175.00
Adjustable ball joints $200.00
Fixed inner pivots $175.00
Powder coating basic colors $75.00
Shipping is $20.00 in the US
01-09-2015, 09:45 AM
#51
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The question is how are spherical bearings going to hold up to abuse on the street in regards to contamination from dirt, salt, snow, rain, etc long term? A rubber control arm bushing will help protect from the abuse of potholes, etc that aren't normally found on a race track. Don't get me wrong (and those arms do look fantastic!), I run sphericals on my control arms on my car, but is a 95% track car that is inspected every couple hours of racing.
$1200 for a new set of 968 control arms that you will likely not have to replace for another 20 years......don't overlook what is a simple solution.
Rebuilt arms might last you a few years, they might not. I have seen them fail again with little use, and I have seen some rebuilt and still going strong!
My typical advise to customers, and it usually isn't far off, is that the cheapest solution is always the most expensive one in the end.
$1200 for a new set of 968 control arms that you will likely not have to replace for another 20 years......don't overlook what is a simple solution.
Rebuilt arms might last you a few years, they might not. I have seen them fail again with little use, and I have seen some rebuilt and still going strong!
My typical advise to customers, and it usually isn't far off, is that the cheapest solution is always the most expensive one in the end.
01-09-2015, 10:00 AM
#52
Rennlist Member
01-09-2015, 10:08 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
The question is how are spherical bearings going to hold up to abuse on the street in regards to contamination from dirt, salt, snow, rain, etc long term? A rubber control arm bushing will help protect from the abuse of potholes, etc that aren't normally found on a race track. Don't get me wrong (and those arms do look fantastic!), I run sphericals on my control arms on my car, but is a 95% track car that is inspected every couple hours of racing.
$1200 for a new set of 968 control arms that you will likely not have to replace for another 20 years......don't overlook what is a simple solution.
Rebuilt arms might last you a few years, they might not. I have seen them fail again with little use, and I have seen some rebuilt and still going strong!
My typical advise to customers, and it usually isn't far off, is that the cheapest solution is always the most expensive one in the end.
$1200 for a new set of 968 control arms that you will likely not have to replace for another 20 years......don't overlook what is a simple solution.
Rebuilt arms might last you a few years, they might not. I have seen them fail again with little use, and I have seen some rebuilt and still going strong!
My typical advise to customers, and it usually isn't far off, is that the cheapest solution is always the most expensive one in the end.
01-09-2015, 07:11 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
Weight and grip may play a role here. We see very few failures in lightweight, non-aero, 944 Spec cars. Most of them use the early steel arms. I have seen those crack from stiff antiswaybars. Once those are box welded, the next weak area is the inner barrel/pivot. These are so cheap that it is very economical just to time them out every season.
The one OEM ball joint that I saw fail had distinct machining marks that looked like significant stress risers. I forgot the brand but other brands looked better in this regard.
For the new LS swap, I am using the High Strung arms, which do look like a very soild piece with the 19mm extended ball joints. Now to fix the bump steer...
The one OEM ball joint that I saw fail had distinct machining marks that looked like significant stress risers. I forgot the brand but other brands looked better in this regard.
For the new LS swap, I am using the High Strung arms, which do look like a very soild piece with the 19mm extended ball joints. Now to fix the bump steer...
01-09-2015, 07:23 PM
#55
I'm with Sterling.
The stock steel arms are fine for street use and if you box them they are a great option for the track. If you track the car I would replace the ball joints year for $25/pr.
If you track more than a Spec car and want more strength and better geometry there are other options. I owned a set of Charlie Arms and they were very nice, but securing new pins was a challenge. I ended up changing to the Lindsey Racing arms and thought they were fantastic. They had taller pins for me which totally fixed the bump steer issue I had been experiencing and they were indestructible.
The stock steel arms are fine for street use and if you box them they are a great option for the track. If you track the car I would replace the ball joints year for $25/pr.
If you track more than a Spec car and want more strength and better geometry there are other options. I owned a set of Charlie Arms and they were very nice, but securing new pins was a challenge. I ended up changing to the Lindsey Racing arms and thought they were fantastic. They had taller pins for me which totally fixed the bump steer issue I had been experiencing and they were indestructible.
01-10-2015, 12:17 PM
#56
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Weight and grip may play a role here. We see very few failures in lightweight, non-aero, 944 Spec cars. Most of them use the early steel arms. I have seen those crack from stiff antiswaybars. Once those are box welded, the next weak area is the inner barrel/pivot. These are so cheap that it is very economical just to time them out every season.
The one OEM ball joint that I saw fail had distinct machining marks that looked like significant stress risers. I forgot the brand but other brands looked better in this regard.
For the new LS swap, I am using the High Strung arms, which do look like a very soild piece with the 19mm extended ball joints. Now to fix the bump steer...
The one OEM ball joint that I saw fail had distinct machining marks that looked like significant stress risers. I forgot the brand but other brands looked better in this regard.
For the new LS swap, I am using the High Strung arms, which do look like a very soild piece with the 19mm extended ball joints. Now to fix the bump steer...
01-10-2015, 03:10 PM
#58
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I thought the whole problem was the ball joints were cast into the arm and couldn't be replaced? How do you replace them for $25/yr on the stock arms?
01-10-2015, 04:16 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
..
Whoa, timeout.
I thought the whole problem was the ball joints were cast into the arm and couldn't be replaced? How do you replace them for $25/yr on the stock arms?
I thought the whole problem was the ball joints were cast into the arm and couldn't be replaced? How do you replace them for $25/yr on the stock arms?