MarkM

Can't connect cage for any stock class either, but may count as a prepared mod.

I re-tubbed my last SC race car with a flood roller. It was a 50K mile car with perfect paint and gaps. I had no issues at all, but my electronics were a lot more simple and it was a fresh-water flood.

I bought it from one of our favorite dismantlers here in GA. The best part of the deal was I negotiated a lower price by letting him keep the interior and trim pieces. 4 guys spent a couple of hours stripping all the things it would have taken me several weekends to do, and I saved $1,500. Probably the only good deal any of us have ever gotten from him.

dgmark

I think that those cage mods are not on the prepared list ether. It kicks you into the GT classes I will defiantly give a postmortem with pics when I strip the car, after that it will be layed up till racing season is over.

good hands

Don't be afraid of no stinkin Caymans

MarkM

Scott, I wouldn't be afraid of them either, but you started with a Koni car and the OP is starting from scratch. That's a much different path to get competitive.

dgmark - I have my original tub with all the electronics and other bits still attached. Send me your needs list when you have it. I need to strip it and get it out of storage this spring or my wife is going to kill me.

DrJupeman

dgmark

Well I have an update, Car came in on Saturday and boy did it smell good after sitting in the shop for a few hours.. I have a project. Salt water flood up to the Instrument cluster. Every piece of the interior minus the dash and instrument pod is junk and went in the garbage. Every electrical part will have to be replaced, Fan Motors, Ecu, Wire harnesses Ect. The motor is locked up solid ,Water in the Cylinder's and Pistons are frozen, 1 quart of water drained from the sump. Alternator froze ac compressor clutch , accessory drive pulleys are all junk
The good news is that the body is in great shape, no water in the trans and the anti lock controller and brake master-booster are OK. The parts I need are readily available used and are cheap. The motor will need a complete rebuild but that was planed anyway. The first order of business is to strip the car and give it a good power wash inside and out to get rid of the salt.
I plan on updating this thread as the build progresses and do the cardinal sin of documenting the cost to build out. My initial estimate is $35,000 plus the cost of the car. so here are the opening figures.

Vehicle Price, $8,000.00
Shipping $650.00
Used PCM, Main Wire harness and theft module $825.00
Total To Date $9,47500

mglobe

You're missing some weight reduction possibilities if this is the case. I can't tell where in the car, but I can assure you that it's possible to make weight in SP996 without going to a lexan rear window. In fact, if I were to do it again, I probably would not go to the bother to take the glass out of the back. I run a passenger seat and a fairly large, full cool suit cooler in order to make my car heavy enough to make weight in SP996. There's lots of stuff you can remove from the car to make it lighter.

DDun911

I am sure I am missing some weight reduction but not a lot . The interesting thing we found is that my car is a 01 I have a few friends with 99's and they are 200 and some lbs lighter to start.

onefastviking

Each year model got a little heavier as they went on, metal was added to chassis for stiffening as well as additional other items/options. But as Mike stated, you still should not have any issue getting below weight. Mike has a 2000 model and it's still got more weight that could be taken out via additional lexan, some more wiring etc, but the cost of weight at this point for gain is limited so no great reason to do it. Yes, the weight could be slightly better located, but that's not the difference in racing at this level. As it is Mike still is RIGHT at the limit.

As well, Mike has a more substantial cage in his car than most people which adds weight to his as well.

Horus2000

I can tell you that the lexan rear window isn't worth it. Only about 10 pounds lighter than stock. But yanking out all the seals in the doors is 12lbs loss. And it's free. Also, the "front bumper bar" that you can order is only a 3lbs loss over the stock bumper.

pmason

Mark, nice looking car, you give up on us E guys?

dgmark

Not this year, I am still to slow, this is next year or maybe two. Wally at Werner is going to do the engine and Charles at LN will do the cyl,s and supply his bearing kit oil pan and other parts. I just saw your pics last month thanks. I didn't know you were such an accomplished photographer. Here are some crappy cell phone pics.

333pg333

Sorry to jump into this thread but can I ask, for 996 Spec are you restricted to keeping all the same rear suspension or are you able to upgrade to Cup or GT3 (if that’s different) hardware?
If you’re allowed to upgrade is this because the other products are considered stronger…or just allow different geometry?

MarkM

Spec996 has a spec Tarret/JRZ suspension package that is allowed for new builds, so no cup stuff there.

mglobe

Rear suspension in SP996 includes the Spec996 JRZ RS dampers with 900lb springs (600 for the front), GT3 Rear Toe Link, GT3 Sway bar, and Tarrett Drop Links. Everything else stays stock.

In the front, the mods are eseentially the same except that we use the GT3 LCA's, and a Tarrett Camber Plate.