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Hoosier R6 Tire Separation Problem: Hankook V Hoosier

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Old 01-24-2013, 05:04 PM
  #31  
Plavan
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Originally Posted by tcracer
It has been said a couple of times in this thread already, but almost all tire issues like what have been shown in this thread are due to under inflated tires. There also seems to be a lot of myth about Hoosier's only working in the 32-34 hot range, this is also not true. I have found and Hoosier tire engineers will also tell you most cars will be fastest and use the tire the best around 38-40 hot, but you have to be smooth and have the car set-up well.

-tony, <--runs Hoosiers and set three track records last year with them.
That is a blanket statement.
Depends on the car weight... I start at 28 pounds, like 32hot, too slippery over 34. Been doing it for 15 years the same way, but never have had a tire failure.
-Chad, <-Patrick Long agrees with me
Old 01-24-2013, 06:17 PM
  #32  
paradisenb
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My tires were not under inflated when they went bad. It was an enduro late in the afternoon after having run sprints earlier, so pressures were set. Tires were new that weekend. The Hoosier tire vendor at the track said it was belt separation, IIRC. Mine bubbled like the OPs pic.

One of them went bad first. I was bouncing all around on the back straight at Rd Atl. I drove one more lap thinking I had pickup. Then I came in and looked, but could not see anything (suppose the bubble was under the fender. I went back out, this time thing were twice as bumpy. Second rear had gone off. I retired to the paddock for further inspection, that is when I found the bubbles. I felt lucky they did not blowout on track.

Proper inflation is not a fixed number. It varies with car and weight. Probably even tire size.
Old 01-24-2013, 10:55 PM
  #33  
J Smith
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I have run the crap out of many, many Hoosier R6's (275/35/18) over the past 3 years and have never had any of these problems on my 3000lb E46 M3. I run them hard from heat cycle 1 usually until they show cords. Starting pressures as low as 28psi, usually shooting for about 36-38 hot.
Seems the issue is common on the rears of heavier 911's?

I love Hoosier, but I agree another manufacturer needs to step up and offer another option in a DOT tire that is readily available. Competition is a good thing. Hankooks may be great, but you can't find them anywhere. And BFG is close with the R1/R1S, but those tires are just not quite there to be able to compete with the R6/A6.

Whatever the issue is, I hope Hoosier makes good when these problems arise and it's clearly a manufacturing defect.
Old 01-24-2013, 11:05 PM
  #34  
4forme
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Mine were a 2011 DOT date. How do I get in on a group but to save a few bucks on some sets?


Originally Posted by TAI2
Well, as many NE guys are getting ready to buy their tires for the 2013 season, and there may be some 2012 leftovers in the NE Warehouses, any indication of DOT codes we should TRY to avoid? Thanks.
Old 01-24-2013, 11:19 PM
  #35  
KOAN
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I have run the crap out of many, many Hoosier R6's (275/35/18) over the past 3 years and have never had any of these problems on my 3000lb E46 M3. I run them hard from heat cycle 1 usually until they show cords. Starting pressures as low as 28psi, usually shooting for about 36-38 hot.
Seems the issue is common on the rears of heavier 911's?

I've only experienced the problem with my rears, 315/30/18
Old 01-24-2013, 11:21 PM
  #36  
mooty
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Originally Posted by analogmike
Low 30s hot are TOO LOW for a car over 2500 pounds. You would have to start at the low 20s and that could damage the tire. My 2300lb car is fine at upper 30s to 40, which is what Hoosier recommends.
Originally Posted by Plavan
I have not seen them on my race car. But it is unsettling to see here. I use R6's 245/50 R15 front, 275/50 R15 rear. My car weighs around 2100 with me in it. I like 32 hot.

Are these tires that are having problems all the same size?
chad, most of our fat modern cars are 2700 lbs (cup: NO driver) or more. a DE car is likely 3200 (street RS: NO driver), if you re on 32 hot at 2100 lbs, then the late cars would be close to 38-40 hot on R6 no?

on my fat car i run 38. haven't had delam issues. i hope never.
Old 01-25-2013, 02:01 AM
  #37  
jenk12m
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So mooty your staring at 28-30 cold
Old 01-25-2013, 02:32 AM
  #38  
333pg333
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Seems pretty clear that Hoosier are not going to admit to any fault. Can't be coincidence all these recorded issues though. That's just in here too. Must be hundreds of them out there.

Still wondering if anyone is having similar issues with their R80/100 slicks???
Old 01-25-2013, 02:39 AM
  #39  
Rokket
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Default Here is Hoosiers Recommendations: Official Pressures

http://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/warranty/HOOSIER.pdf

Holy crap man...That defective Hoosier damn near totaled the left rear quarter. BTW, I let a track buddy of mine "talk me into" starting a session around 36-38 psi....I spun in turn 16 on the warm up lap...WAY WAY WAY too high of a pressure cold. My other buddy took various readings at Sebring and we found that 22-23 lbs cold was optimal with nearly perfectly even readings across the treads. I really don't worry that much about the hot pressures...I still do the old school shoe polish trick to monitor the tire roll and tread wear.

I ran a 2:27 (SP3/NASA GTS-3) flat at Sebring on a set of Hankook C51's that finally corded after about 25-heat cycles. They seem to get stickier as they go, until you hit the cords. Problem with the Hankooks is that they don't make anything wider than a 275 and they are sold out as of 2-days ago.

I tried the C71 (Medium Compound) and was expecting to set some kind of land speed record...Spent more time doing the Scooby Doo peel outs and had my hands full after about 6-laps
Old 01-25-2013, 02:53 AM
  #40  
mooty
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Originally Posted by jenk12m
So mooty your staring at 28-30 cold
depending on temp.
sometimes start at 26
Old 01-25-2013, 08:49 AM
  #41  
Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by Rokket
http://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/warranty/HOOSIER.pdf

Holy crap man...That defective Hoosier damn near totaled the left rear quarter. BTW, I let a track buddy of mine "talk me into" starting a session around 36-38 psi....I spun in turn 16 on the warm up lap...WAY WAY WAY too high of a pressure cold. My other buddy took various readings at Sebring and we found that 22-23 lbs cold was optimal with nearly perfectly even readings across the treads. I really don't worry that much about the hot pressures...I still do the old school shoe polish trick to monitor the tire roll and tread wear.

I ran a 2:27 (SP3/NASA GTS-3) flat at Sebring on a set of Hankook C51's that finally corded after about 25-heat cycles. They seem to get stickier as they go, until you hit the cords. Problem with the Hankooks is that they don't make anything wider than a 275 and they are sold out as of 2-days ago.

I tried the C71 (Medium Compound) and was expecting to set some kind of land speed record...Spent more time doing the Scooby Doo peel outs and had my hands full after about 6-laps
My probe pyrometer has shown that, on my M3, starting around 24 front 22 rear yield optimum results on most tracks. I will raise those 2 psi if it is below 45 degrees ambient.

C71's are worthles for track use IMO.
Old 01-25-2013, 11:20 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Still wondering if anyone is having similar issues with their R80/100 slicks???
YES!!! I've documented several blow outs in this forum in the past. They were our spec tire in the Ferrari CCR series and we saw many problems. Hoosier's response is go with bigger sidewall and increase pressure, but this makes you slow. I want a tire that goes fast AND doesn't blow up, I won't buy them again.
Old 01-25-2013, 01:47 PM
  #43  
Bob Rouleau

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On my RS, 36F 38R hot. No issues. As to Hoosier being liable, using them at well below the recommended pressures pretty much lets them off the hook I'd think. Reminds me of the old BFG R1 groove of doom days when guys were running then at 10-12 lbs below the recommended pressures and then complaining about premature failures.

At 38 lbs hot you need to really load the tires to make them stick but if you do, they stick. Drive like you're on street tires and they seem to behave like street tires
Old 01-25-2013, 02:01 PM
  #44  
Astroman
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Though I have not had a big "bubble" like the original post picture, I have had a bad time with my R6s getting "out of round." I've taken the tires to the Hoosier truck thinking I had lost wheel weights only to discover that I had a tire that was nowhere near round anymore... Obviously it creates horrible vibration.

It's frustrating. I would use the Hankooks in a second if they made my sizes.
Old 01-25-2013, 04:59 PM
  #45  
FFaust
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Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
At 38 lbs hot you need to really load the tires to make them stick but if you do, they stick. Drive like you're on street tires and they seem to behave like street tires
This likely is the "solution". Show-em who's the boss, and they will serve you well.


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