RV knowledge and towing?
11-06-2012, 09:00 PM
#16
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I can't believe that this would be a safe tow vehicle. Especially with the top heavy camper shell.
I'd love an Earthroamer but way too much. For a smaller RV built on a F450/550 with big towing capacity it's hard to beat Host:
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
11-07-2012, 12:01 PM
#17
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We've rented a few C Class RV's and think they all had right around a 5K tow rating. Plenty of power with the 8.1L gasser. Not sure if it was the long overhang behind the rear axle or because we were towing near the rated max (open trailer with extra wheels, tools, etc.) but it was NOT a stable platform. If I was going to purchase something to use on a regular basis it would definitely have to be on a bigger chassis.
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I'd love an Earthroamer but way too much. For a smaller RV built on a F450/550 with big towing capacity it's hard to beat Host:
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
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11-07-2012, 08:16 PM
#19
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11-07-2012, 08:18 PM
#20
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I'd love an Earthroamer but way too much. For a smaller RV built on a F450/550 with big towing capacity it's hard to beat Host:
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
11-08-2012, 08:03 AM
#21
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How about one of those piggyback (slide-on) campers that sit in the bed of a pickup? You should then have normal towing capacity as well as the amenity of a (albeit minimal) RV.
11-08-2012, 12:44 PM
#22
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11-10-2012, 12:23 AM
#24
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There is nothing like setting up and being at the track the night before an event. You have the whole place to yourself, it's so peaceful. Then, the next morning, you can watch folks come in, set up, and hurry to get everything ready, while you relax and sip on your home-brewed coffee.
I made the move this year, mostly because my wife had started coming with me, and it sure beat sitting under the awning in the paddock all day.
Don't try to go too small. As with tow vehicles, trailers, our cars, mods, ..., more is better than less.
- Delta between GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, max weight of the loaded vehicle alone) and GCWR (G Combined WR, max of RV + towed trailer) will give you your towing "allowance". But if the RV is not loaded to its max weight, you can take the "weight credit" toward you trailer. Just make sure that the hitch itself is rated for what you need to tow
- If you get a C or Super C, make sure that you get one where the "big" (main) chassis goes all the way back. These RVs are generally built on delivery truck or school bus frames, and the longer ones have smaller frame extensions added to the back to accommodate the longer "houses" (not very good for towing)
- A diesel Super C can be quite noisy with its diesel engine between the two front seats
- I purchased a 35' diesel pusher, and although it struggles a bit on the big hills, it is quite capable on flatter routes. Exhaust brake is a nice feature when pulling a trailer (I pull a 8500lbs, 26' enclosed). Because of the long overhang and large mirrors, it's actually easier to backup with the trailer than my pickup.
- Be patient, educate yourself, and buy right. That way you will do it only once (no need to upgrade quickly), your rv will retain its value, and you wont look back
- Mine is a 2005 Monaco Cayman, had 24000 miles, came from Arizona, and cost me $78k. As an added benefit: We are renovating the house and have been without a tub or shower for a month; guess what's been really handy... It's like going to the cottage, but in the driveway.
Good luck.
This is Tremblant. The morning after can also be nice.
I made the move this year, mostly because my wife had started coming with me, and it sure beat sitting under the awning in the paddock all day.
Don't try to go too small. As with tow vehicles, trailers, our cars, mods, ..., more is better than less.
- Delta between GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, max weight of the loaded vehicle alone) and GCWR (G Combined WR, max of RV + towed trailer) will give you your towing "allowance". But if the RV is not loaded to its max weight, you can take the "weight credit" toward you trailer. Just make sure that the hitch itself is rated for what you need to tow
- If you get a C or Super C, make sure that you get one where the "big" (main) chassis goes all the way back. These RVs are generally built on delivery truck or school bus frames, and the longer ones have smaller frame extensions added to the back to accommodate the longer "houses" (not very good for towing)
- A diesel Super C can be quite noisy with its diesel engine between the two front seats
- I purchased a 35' diesel pusher, and although it struggles a bit on the big hills, it is quite capable on flatter routes. Exhaust brake is a nice feature when pulling a trailer (I pull a 8500lbs, 26' enclosed). Because of the long overhang and large mirrors, it's actually easier to backup with the trailer than my pickup.
- Be patient, educate yourself, and buy right. That way you will do it only once (no need to upgrade quickly), your rv will retain its value, and you wont look back
- Mine is a 2005 Monaco Cayman, had 24000 miles, came from Arizona, and cost me $78k. As an added benefit: We are renovating the house and have been without a tub or shower for a month; guess what's been really handy... It's like going to the cottage, but in the driveway.
Good luck.
This is Tremblant. The morning after can also be nice.
11-10-2012, 07:46 PM
#25
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There is nothing like setting up and being at the track the night before an event. You have the whole place to yourself, it's so peaceful. Then, the next morning, you can watch folks come in, set up, and hurry to get everything ready, while you relax and sip on your home-brewed coffee.
I made the move this year, mostly because my wife had started coming with me, and it sure beat sitting under the awning in the paddock all day.
Don't try to go too small. As with tow vehicles, trailers, our cars, mods, ..., more is better than less.
- Delta between GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, max weight of the loaded vehicle alone) and GCWR (G Combined WR, max of RV + towed trailer) will give you your towing "allowance". But if the RV is not loaded to its max weight, you can take the "weight credit" toward you trailer. Just make sure that the hitch itself is rated for what you need to tow
- If you get a C or Super C, make sure that you get one where the "big" (main) chassis goes all the way back. These RVs are generally built on delivery truck or school bus frames, and the longer ones have smaller frame extensions added to the back to accommodate the longer "houses" (not very good for towing)
- A diesel Super C can be quite noisy with its diesel engine between the two front seats
- I purchased a 35' diesel pusher, and although it struggles a bit on the big hills, it is quite capable on flatter routes. Exhaust brake is a nice feature when pulling a trailer (I pull a 8500lbs, 26' enclosed). Because of the long overhang and large mirrors, it's actually easier to backup with the trailer than my pickup.
- Be patient, educate yourself, and buy right. That way you will do it only once (no need to upgrade quickly), your rv will retain its value, and you wont look back
- Mine is a 2005 Monaco Cayman, had 24000 miles, came from Arizona, and cost me $78k. As an added benefit: We are renovating the house and have been without a tub or shower for a month; guess what's been really handy... It's like going to the cottage, but in the driveway.
Good luck.
This is Tremblant. The morning after can also be nice.
I made the move this year, mostly because my wife had started coming with me, and it sure beat sitting under the awning in the paddock all day.
Don't try to go too small. As with tow vehicles, trailers, our cars, mods, ..., more is better than less.
- Delta between GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, max weight of the loaded vehicle alone) and GCWR (G Combined WR, max of RV + towed trailer) will give you your towing "allowance". But if the RV is not loaded to its max weight, you can take the "weight credit" toward you trailer. Just make sure that the hitch itself is rated for what you need to tow
- If you get a C or Super C, make sure that you get one where the "big" (main) chassis goes all the way back. These RVs are generally built on delivery truck or school bus frames, and the longer ones have smaller frame extensions added to the back to accommodate the longer "houses" (not very good for towing)
- A diesel Super C can be quite noisy with its diesel engine between the two front seats
- I purchased a 35' diesel pusher, and although it struggles a bit on the big hills, it is quite capable on flatter routes. Exhaust brake is a nice feature when pulling a trailer (I pull a 8500lbs, 26' enclosed). Because of the long overhang and large mirrors, it's actually easier to backup with the trailer than my pickup.
- Be patient, educate yourself, and buy right. That way you will do it only once (no need to upgrade quickly), your rv will retain its value, and you wont look back
- Mine is a 2005 Monaco Cayman, had 24000 miles, came from Arizona, and cost me $78k. As an added benefit: We are renovating the house and have been without a tub or shower for a month; guess what's been really handy... It's like going to the cottage, but in the driveway.
Good luck.
This is Tremblant. The morning after can also be nice.
11-10-2012, 11:55 PM
#26
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I owned a Host for two years, blew up the motor while towing my race car trailer. Ford replaced it under warranty and then I sold it. I was just under the GVWR and GCVR, but the service manager at the dealer said those ratings are are for down hill with a tail wind.
Even though it is a 550 chassis, with a high weight rating, it is the same motor Ford puts in the 150 diesel pick ups.
I've been through more motor homes than I care to admit (and made every mistake).
If I wanted small, I would go for a diesel 350 dually pick up, with a light camper on the back and no more than 20' enclosed trailer (aluminum preferred).
Otherwise, it's the small Freightliner based RV's or a diesel pusher.
I would 100% avoid a gas powered motor home for towing - the chassis are lightweight, the overhangs are often long (tail wags the dog deathtraps).
Even though it is a 550 chassis, with a high weight rating, it is the same motor Ford puts in the 150 diesel pick ups.
I've been through more motor homes than I care to admit (and made every mistake).
If I wanted small, I would go for a diesel 350 dually pick up, with a light camper on the back and no more than 20' enclosed trailer (aluminum preferred).
Otherwise, it's the small Freightliner based RV's or a diesel pusher.
I would 100% avoid a gas powered motor home for towing - the chassis are lightweight, the overhangs are often long (tail wags the dog deathtraps).
I'd love an Earthroamer but way too much. For a smaller RV built on a F450/550 with big towing capacity it's hard to beat Host:
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
http://www.hostcampers.com/graphics/...exterior_6.jpg
I've been renting bigger class C, Supernova and Dynamax, built on large commercial trucks with the tow capacity. It's too big for just the two of us but if you had family along it would be perfect.
11-11-2012, 12:09 AM
#27
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You will make trade offs, there is no perfect option. Except maybe arrive and drive with a private jet to the track.
Don't completely discount the 'camper' option. It is the only choice for diesel towing power, small, reasonable cost and having a multi-use vehicle.
Don't completely discount the 'camper' option. It is the only choice for diesel towing power, small, reasonable cost and having a multi-use vehicle.
12-24-2012, 11:19 AM
#28
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My wife just bought me an RV for Christmas intended for towing and trackside accommodation. We did some serious research before making a final choice. I wanted to have a reasonable towing capacity in as small a package as possible.
In the end we purchased a Freelander Coachman 21QB. Reasons for choice were as follows:
Towing capacity. With a Chevy 4500 chassis GCWR=20000 / GVWR=14200 / CW=9100 means I have at least 6800 lbs and as much as 10000+ lbs capacity presuming I change out the 5000 lb tow hitch. More than enough to deal with my 4000lb open trailer but enough that if I decide to change up to an enclosed I can.
Sufficient facility in a compact size. Everything my wife and I would need including a stand up shower as well as all the normal stuff in a vehicle with a total length of <24'. And as a personal thing, I wanted one that didn't have any slide-outs, to me they just add unneeded weight and complexity and more often than not require the occupant to reorganize interior before moving off.
Relatively short rear overhang - chassis has less than 18" extension which should reduce the tail wagging issues. Having said that, if I go to a heavier hitch in the future I will still reinforce the extension that has been made. Although it maintains the GM chassis' dimensions as it extends back who knows how well it was executed.
Unmodified chassis - the unit is built on the factory 159" wheelbase meaning that no one has cut and shut the chassis. Just a personal preference to not have some unknown of unknown skill screwing with the important bits.
Price is right - she bought it new for under $50k with the 6.0ltr v8 GM 4500 chassis and a 2013 title.
I'm sure there will be plenty of people out there who will tell me that this was a horrible choice and that you can't tow with anything less than a steam train but so far my experimental test drives show that's seems fine for the job. It ain't going to break any land speed records and I'll definitely be traveling slower than the previous cayenne GTS tow vehicle. I'll let you know for certain after Sebring at the end of January. For the record, for the last 5 years, I have been doing the "impossible" and using my Cayenne as a tow vehicle (effortlessly and uneventfully).
Just as an aside, I suspect Australians have a different attitude to what works and what doesn't when it comes to towing. Where I come from there are virtually no Pickups in the American tradition and most Tradesmen drive what we call a "Ute" which is a small pickup based on the same cars you see them racing in Aussie V8 series (kind of like the El Camino - is that what it was called? ) - no separate chassis, no huge weight carrying capacity, not even much weight to speak of. Despite this we wouldn't hesitate to put a 5000 lb weight distribution hitch and a brake controller on it and tow every pound of its' capacity (ie more than the primary vehicles weight ) and not give a second thought. I'm not sure where the difference in attitude came from but I suspect it was just us making do with what we had.
Merry Christmas everyone and looking forward to a great new year.
In the end we purchased a Freelander Coachman 21QB. Reasons for choice were as follows:
Towing capacity. With a Chevy 4500 chassis GCWR=20000 / GVWR=14200 / CW=9100 means I have at least 6800 lbs and as much as 10000+ lbs capacity presuming I change out the 5000 lb tow hitch. More than enough to deal with my 4000lb open trailer but enough that if I decide to change up to an enclosed I can.
Sufficient facility in a compact size. Everything my wife and I would need including a stand up shower as well as all the normal stuff in a vehicle with a total length of <24'. And as a personal thing, I wanted one that didn't have any slide-outs, to me they just add unneeded weight and complexity and more often than not require the occupant to reorganize interior before moving off.
Relatively short rear overhang - chassis has less than 18" extension which should reduce the tail wagging issues. Having said that, if I go to a heavier hitch in the future I will still reinforce the extension that has been made. Although it maintains the GM chassis' dimensions as it extends back who knows how well it was executed.
Unmodified chassis - the unit is built on the factory 159" wheelbase meaning that no one has cut and shut the chassis. Just a personal preference to not have some unknown of unknown skill screwing with the important bits.
Price is right - she bought it new for under $50k with the 6.0ltr v8 GM 4500 chassis and a 2013 title.
I'm sure there will be plenty of people out there who will tell me that this was a horrible choice and that you can't tow with anything less than a steam train but so far my experimental test drives show that's seems fine for the job. It ain't going to break any land speed records and I'll definitely be traveling slower than the previous cayenne GTS tow vehicle. I'll let you know for certain after Sebring at the end of January. For the record, for the last 5 years, I have been doing the "impossible" and using my Cayenne as a tow vehicle (effortlessly and uneventfully).
Just as an aside, I suspect Australians have a different attitude to what works and what doesn't when it comes to towing. Where I come from there are virtually no Pickups in the American tradition and most Tradesmen drive what we call a "Ute" which is a small pickup based on the same cars you see them racing in Aussie V8 series (kind of like the El Camino - is that what it was called? ) - no separate chassis, no huge weight carrying capacity, not even much weight to speak of. Despite this we wouldn't hesitate to put a 5000 lb weight distribution hitch and a brake controller on it and tow every pound of its' capacity (ie more than the primary vehicles weight ) and not give a second thought. I'm not sure where the difference in attitude came from but I suspect it was just us making do with what we had.
Merry Christmas everyone and looking forward to a great new year.
12-24-2012, 01:33 PM
#29
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My wife just bought me an RV for Christmas intended for towing and trackside accommodation. We did some serious research before making a final choice. I wanted to have a reasonable towing capacity in as small a package as possible.
In the end we purchased a Freelander Coachman 21QB. Reasons for choice were as follows:
Towing capacity. With a Chevy 4500 chassis GCWR=20000 / GVWR=14200 / CW=9100 means I have at least 6800 lbs and as much as 10000+ lbs capacity presuming I change out the 5000 lb tow hitch. More than enough to deal with my 4000lb open trailer but enough that if I decide to change up to an enclosed I can.
Sufficient facility in a compact size. Everything my wife and I would need including a stand up shower as well as all the normal stuff in a vehicle with a total length of <24'. And as a personal thing, I wanted one that didn't have any slide-outs, to me they just add unneeded weight and complexity and more often than not require the occupant to reorganize interior before moving off.
Relatively short rear overhang - chassis has less than 18" extension which should reduce the tail wagging issues. Having said that, if I go to a heavier hitch in the future I will still reinforce the extension that has been made. Although it maintains the GM chassis' dimensions as it extends back who knows how well it was executed.
Unmodified chassis - the unit is built on the factory 159" wheelbase meaning that no one has cut and shut the chassis. Just a personal preference to not have some unknown of unknown skill screwing with the important bits.
Price is right - she bought it new for under $50k with the 6.0ltr v8 GM 4500 chassis and a 2013 title.
I'm sure there will be plenty of people out there who will tell me that this was a horrible choice and that you can't tow with anything less than a steam train but so far my experimental test drives show that's seems fine for the job. It ain't going to break any land speed records and I'll definitely be traveling slower than the previous cayenne GTS tow vehicle. I'll let you know for certain after Sebring at the end of January. For the record, for the last 5 years, I have been doing the "impossible" and using my Cayenne as a tow vehicle (effortlessly and uneventfully).
Just as an aside, I suspect Australians have a different attitude to what works and what doesn't when it comes to towing. Where I come from there are virtually no Pickups in the American tradition and most Tradesmen drive what we call a "Ute" which is a small pickup based on the same cars you see them racing in Aussie V8 series (kind of like the El Camino - is that what it was called? ) - no separate chassis, no huge weight carrying capacity, not even much weight to speak of. Despite this we wouldn't hesitate to put a 5000 lb weight distribution hitch and a brake controller on it and tow every pound of its' capacity (ie more than the primary vehicles weight ) and not give a second thought. I'm not sure where the difference in attitude came from but I suspect it was just us making do with what we had.
Merry Christmas everyone and looking forward to a great new year.
In the end we purchased a Freelander Coachman 21QB. Reasons for choice were as follows:
Towing capacity. With a Chevy 4500 chassis GCWR=20000 / GVWR=14200 / CW=9100 means I have at least 6800 lbs and as much as 10000+ lbs capacity presuming I change out the 5000 lb tow hitch. More than enough to deal with my 4000lb open trailer but enough that if I decide to change up to an enclosed I can.
Sufficient facility in a compact size. Everything my wife and I would need including a stand up shower as well as all the normal stuff in a vehicle with a total length of <24'. And as a personal thing, I wanted one that didn't have any slide-outs, to me they just add unneeded weight and complexity and more often than not require the occupant to reorganize interior before moving off.
Relatively short rear overhang - chassis has less than 18" extension which should reduce the tail wagging issues. Having said that, if I go to a heavier hitch in the future I will still reinforce the extension that has been made. Although it maintains the GM chassis' dimensions as it extends back who knows how well it was executed.
Unmodified chassis - the unit is built on the factory 159" wheelbase meaning that no one has cut and shut the chassis. Just a personal preference to not have some unknown of unknown skill screwing with the important bits.
Price is right - she bought it new for under $50k with the 6.0ltr v8 GM 4500 chassis and a 2013 title.
I'm sure there will be plenty of people out there who will tell me that this was a horrible choice and that you can't tow with anything less than a steam train but so far my experimental test drives show that's seems fine for the job. It ain't going to break any land speed records and I'll definitely be traveling slower than the previous cayenne GTS tow vehicle. I'll let you know for certain after Sebring at the end of January. For the record, for the last 5 years, I have been doing the "impossible" and using my Cayenne as a tow vehicle (effortlessly and uneventfully).
Just as an aside, I suspect Australians have a different attitude to what works and what doesn't when it comes to towing. Where I come from there are virtually no Pickups in the American tradition and most Tradesmen drive what we call a "Ute" which is a small pickup based on the same cars you see them racing in Aussie V8 series (kind of like the El Camino - is that what it was called? ) - no separate chassis, no huge weight carrying capacity, not even much weight to speak of. Despite this we wouldn't hesitate to put a 5000 lb weight distribution hitch and a brake controller on it and tow every pound of its' capacity (ie more than the primary vehicles weight ) and not give a second thought. I'm not sure where the difference in attitude came from but I suspect it was just us making do with what we had.
Merry Christmas everyone and looking forward to a great new year.