Entry level racing . ...not spec Miata
#16
The Penguin King
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#17
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Save yourself a lot of money and find a SRF (SCCA) or Spec Miata (SCCA/NASA), or SpecE30 (NASA) to rent. This will give you an introduction to the class and racing organization from people that know what they are doing. You will save time by learning from there experience.
I'm guessing you need to learn to race as well. It sure is easier to see if you are improving your driving in a spec car. If you aren't looking for really competitive lower cost racing then I would not recommend any of these options.
I'm guessing you need to learn to race as well. It sure is easier to see if you are improving your driving in a spec car. If you aren't looking for really competitive lower cost racing then I would not recommend any of these options.
#18
Burning Brakes
I've never raced with Porsche Club, but I would recommend Spec Racer Ford (SCCA) since you don't want a Spec Miata. And before you buy, RENT! And go watch a few races. Seriously, there's more to racing than just the car. It's the people in the class, the organization that runs the race, and just the logistics of racing.
You also have to ask yourself what you want from racing - close competition, racing a cool car, wrenching on the car, etc. From what I have seen (generalizing here), the classes with close competition are the spec classes. The more you can spend / tune / customize in a class, the fewer the competitors and the competition isn't as even.
Full disclosure: I race in Spec Miata.
You also have to ask yourself what you want from racing - close competition, racing a cool car, wrenching on the car, etc. From what I have seen (generalizing here), the classes with close competition are the spec classes. The more you can spend / tune / customize in a class, the fewer the competitors and the competition isn't as even.
Full disclosure: I race in Spec Miata.
#19
The Penguin King
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Out of curiosity, why do you say no to Spec Miata?
#20
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You could build a really nice 944 Spec car, and have money left over for driver coaching, and lots of seat time. Don't make yourself car poor! Spend money on racing. I can help with contacts & resources if you are interested.
#21
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I second that question, if you want competition, low cost, big field, a race on any weekend within a few hundred miles, and want to learn how to wheel a car, SM is the ticket. I am bias of course.
if you do not have a comp license SCCA or NASA might be easier. While SCCA does have 6 or so run groups, you do not have the same amount of hand holding that you get in PCA and NASA, It just depends on what you need and want.
I enjoy showing up to the track, no meetings, we all know what we need to do, go line up and qualify or race. Simple is good for me.
if you do not have a comp license SCCA or NASA might be easier. While SCCA does have 6 or so run groups, you do not have the same amount of hand holding that you get in PCA and NASA, It just depends on what you need and want.
I enjoy showing up to the track, no meetings, we all know what we need to do, go line up and qualify or race. Simple is good for me.
#24
This is a great idea. In most cases FF drivers are physically fit, trim and not too tall. These are narrow, low slung machines.
#25
Limey940
There is a very nicely prepared Porsche 996 for sale at Goldcrest Motorsports in Kennesaw, GA. They do not own the car but they prepared it for the owner. It's for sale for around $30K. I'm only posting this because it's in your price range and all the work on it was done by Goldcrest. The also prepared the 59 Brumos car for last year's 24 hours at Daytona. I'm not associated with Goldcrest except as a customer and I do not know what PCA class the car would run in. There are a lot of opportunities for racing in a lot of venues, so do your homework. I have nothing to gain or lose by posting this other than pointing out a possible opportunity for you.
There is a very nicely prepared Porsche 996 for sale at Goldcrest Motorsports in Kennesaw, GA. They do not own the car but they prepared it for the owner. It's for sale for around $30K. I'm only posting this because it's in your price range and all the work on it was done by Goldcrest. The also prepared the 59 Brumos car for last year's 24 hours at Daytona. I'm not associated with Goldcrest except as a customer and I do not know what PCA class the car would run in. There are a lot of opportunities for racing in a lot of venues, so do your homework. I have nothing to gain or lose by posting this other than pointing out a possible opportunity for you.
#27
Rennlist Member
As noted above for SRF-rent one and then if you like it, competetive used ones can be had for $20K or less. Sealed engines and transmission. A great bunch of friendly and helpful racers. They are also relatively safer than open wheel racers with a double tube frame on the sides.
#29
Some very good information and some misguided information.
FF motors do not blow up at the drop of the hat. A few hours of run time is bullsh*t. If you want to run at the very pointed edge of the field at the Sprints or the Runoffs then you probably will be refreshening the motor once a year. If you are running vintage you can go a long time between rebuilds. Parts are readily available. Vintage fields are more plentiful than SCCA regionals and nationals. If you buy a quality vintage FF and take care of it, the resale should be pretty high.
FF is a great place to learn racecraft. Mistakes are magnified in these light low HP cars. No down force puts a premium on smooth driving and understanding how the chassis works. There probably isn't a better place to learn the skills to drive quickly and smoothly.
Spec Miata and SRF are also great places to learn. Any low HP class is going to be better than jumping into something with high hp. I've watched numerous well funded guys buy Cup cars only to find out 2 to 3 years later that spending big dollars on the car doesn’t help them run with the fast guys. It's not the car.
Building a racecar is always a losing game. You'll spend two to three times what you thought you were going to spend and will need to spend more to get it to work well. That money could have been used to better effect by spending it on track time. Buy a car that is already sorted and go to the track often. Laps, Laps, Laps..
Renting can be a good idea as well. You can see what you are getting into before taking the leap.
Go to the track you plan to race most often and find out what class has the most participants. Racing isn't much fun without someone to race against.
YMMV
FF motors do not blow up at the drop of the hat. A few hours of run time is bullsh*t. If you want to run at the very pointed edge of the field at the Sprints or the Runoffs then you probably will be refreshening the motor once a year. If you are running vintage you can go a long time between rebuilds. Parts are readily available. Vintage fields are more plentiful than SCCA regionals and nationals. If you buy a quality vintage FF and take care of it, the resale should be pretty high.
FF is a great place to learn racecraft. Mistakes are magnified in these light low HP cars. No down force puts a premium on smooth driving and understanding how the chassis works. There probably isn't a better place to learn the skills to drive quickly and smoothly.
Spec Miata and SRF are also great places to learn. Any low HP class is going to be better than jumping into something with high hp. I've watched numerous well funded guys buy Cup cars only to find out 2 to 3 years later that spending big dollars on the car doesn’t help them run with the fast guys. It's not the car.
Building a racecar is always a losing game. You'll spend two to three times what you thought you were going to spend and will need to spend more to get it to work well. That money could have been used to better effect by spending it on track time. Buy a car that is already sorted and go to the track often. Laps, Laps, Laps..
Renting can be a good idea as well. You can see what you are getting into before taking the leap.
Go to the track you plan to race most often and find out what class has the most participants. Racing isn't much fun without someone to race against.
YMMV
#30
Burning Brakes
If I were to be starting racing today, I would pick spec Boxster. Cheap cars, lots of parts availability, cheap to operate/maintain, reliable, reasonably modern technology.
I love 944 Turbo's and have lots of time, money and parts invested otherwise I would switch.
PCA E stock is a fantastic class, with great competition but Spec Boxster is catching up, if not eclipsing. I previously raced F and G stock, but winning class when your the only participant lacks something.
I am not a fan of the bumping and barging in SCCA or NASA. PCA provides lots of track time, and generally courteous, "racing room" driving.
I just came back from the PCA Clubrace at Hallett. 4 races (including the fun race). Great competition, close but no malicious maneovers or reckless driving. Great weekend, just as it should be. Highly satisfying.
I love 944 Turbo's and have lots of time, money and parts invested otherwise I would switch.
PCA E stock is a fantastic class, with great competition but Spec Boxster is catching up, if not eclipsing. I previously raced F and G stock, but winning class when your the only participant lacks something.
I am not a fan of the bumping and barging in SCCA or NASA. PCA provides lots of track time, and generally courteous, "racing room" driving.
I just came back from the PCA Clubrace at Hallett. 4 races (including the fun race). Great competition, close but no malicious maneovers or reckless driving. Great weekend, just as it should be. Highly satisfying.