Tarett Engineering new 944 Spec Sponsor!
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tarett Engineering new 944 Spec Sponsor!
I'm proud to announce Tarett Engineering as a new 944 Spec Sponsor.
For the first time, Tarett is offering substantial savings exclusive to 944 Spec drivers.
I have run Tarret bars for years, and won several NASA Regional and National Championships on them. As you can see in the picture below, they are a work of art, and have superior quality hardware that stands up to frequent adjustments in a racing environment. They have always been the premium option, but now at a great price as well. This is a limited time offer through June 31st, so don't miss out!
Here's the deal:
$552 Front & $420 Rear (15% / $171 discount)
Offer valid now through June 30th.
Each individual must contact me to set up their discount to verify their status as a 944 Spec driver. Email me at Eric dot Kuhns at G mail dot com.
Each driver must run 18" Tarret decals (provided with bar shipment) for one year.
Also new is hardware to adapt to the early steel arms, which was developed so all in the class could have equal access to this deal and hardware. It is recommended that you box weld the front steel a arms for use with the Tarett antisway bars.
For the first time, Tarett is offering substantial savings exclusive to 944 Spec drivers.
I have run Tarret bars for years, and won several NASA Regional and National Championships on them. As you can see in the picture below, they are a work of art, and have superior quality hardware that stands up to frequent adjustments in a racing environment. They have always been the premium option, but now at a great price as well. This is a limited time offer through June 31st, so don't miss out!
Here's the deal:
$552 Front & $420 Rear (15% / $171 discount)
Offer valid now through June 30th.
Each individual must contact me to set up their discount to verify their status as a 944 Spec driver. Email me at Eric dot Kuhns at G mail dot com.
Each driver must run 18" Tarret decals (provided with bar shipment) for one year.
Also new is hardware to adapt to the early steel arms, which was developed so all in the class could have equal access to this deal and hardware. It is recommended that you box weld the front steel a arms for use with the Tarett antisway bars.
Last edited by Sterling Doc; 04-25-2012 at 01:18 AM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
While I think they would fit, steel arms a cheap, safer, and direct bolt in solution, Steve. Though we see it less on our lighter cars, the early aluminum arms were prone to failure in a racing environment.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Both problems should be fixed, Kurt. I'm not missing any more races this year to let someone borrow my car! It was pretty sad to see Sam's car taken out by a $2 plug failing. I think Sam is going to be really fast no matter what he's in.
Your lap times came down tremendously this weekend. Welcome back to the addiction!
Your lap times came down tremendously this weekend. Welcome back to the addiction!
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#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bump for a good support story. I broke a reinforcing bracket last weekend. Rare failure, but parts were not only warrantied, but shipped out overnight to keep me on track for the next event. Now that's service!
#10
Three Wheelin'
Since your Spec car more than likely has the A/C compressor removed, and the Tarett brackets have 4 holes and 2 possible mounting positions for the sway bar mount blocks, you can cut the bottom mounting hole off of the brackets and gain a critical inch in ground clearance and therefore have less of a chance of impact damage and breakage.
Despite all of this, Ira has been great about supplying me with replacement brackets quickly and reasonably. He makes great suspension products for a range of Porsches, and is a cool guy on top of that.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I have them up in the upper position, and have sawed of the bottom of the bracket not being used. With that, clearance is adequate. No impact damage here, though a prototype mount to the steel arms caused some binding that may have stressed them. Ira is looking into modifying that area regardless.
#12
Three Wheelin'
I backdated to the steel arms on my 951 almost a year ago, and Ira sent me a pair of the adaptor mounts to try out . . . I don't know if they are prototype status as yours are but they do have 2 different mounting holes for the bottom end of the drop links, one forward and one to the center. Since I run my front bar on the loose side, I am able to use the center mounting hole, which is good since that places the drop link on the same plane as the rear pivot point of the control arm, which ensures that the control arm is not getting twisted as it would be when using the forward mounting hole.
I have run ~10 weekend-long track events plus all of the street driving in between, and I have not had any issues except with the aforementioned impact damage (my car is very softly sprung due to POC class rules, it is easy to bottom out and scrape on curbs and from compression at places like the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca!).
With this bar it is imperative to be sure that the bar pivots freely in the mounts when the drop links are disconnected. Gradually tightening the brackets and center mounts helps to ensure this. Also, the drop links should only be connected with the suspension loaded at the normal ride height to be sure that there is no preload on the bar; you should adjust the length of the drop links so that you can thread in the mounting bolts entirely by hand. This should be checked any time the stiffness of the front bar is adjusted. It is kind of a pain, but worth it to ensure that the bar does not bind.
I have run ~10 weekend-long track events plus all of the street driving in between, and I have not had any issues except with the aforementioned impact damage (my car is very softly sprung due to POC class rules, it is easy to bottom out and scrape on curbs and from compression at places like the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca!).
With this bar it is imperative to be sure that the bar pivots freely in the mounts when the drop links are disconnected. Gradually tightening the brackets and center mounts helps to ensure this. Also, the drop links should only be connected with the suspension loaded at the normal ride height to be sure that there is no preload on the bar; you should adjust the length of the drop links so that you can thread in the mounting bolts entirely by hand. This should be checked any time the stiffness of the front bar is adjusted. It is kind of a pain, but worth it to ensure that the bar does not bind.