Lilft options for 8' garage
#1
Lilft options for 8' garage
Another "does such an animal exist" thread.
Anyone know of a "normal" 2 post lift that will fit in a garage with 8' cielings? I know that there are 4 post lifts that would be fine, but I can't completely stack cars with one of those, due to the added height of the platforms. I would be able to stack some of the 944's with a 2 post lift, but the only one I have found is the Maxjax by Danmar, which they bill as "portable," and it costs about 25% more than most other ones that are 9' tall. Plus it is only rated at 6,000 pounds.
Just wondering if I have any other options I haven't found, yet.
Anyone know of a "normal" 2 post lift that will fit in a garage with 8' cielings? I know that there are 4 post lifts that would be fine, but I can't completely stack cars with one of those, due to the added height of the platforms. I would be able to stack some of the 944's with a 2 post lift, but the only one I have found is the Maxjax by Danmar, which they bill as "portable," and it costs about 25% more than most other ones that are 9' tall. Plus it is only rated at 6,000 pounds.
Just wondering if I have any other options I haven't found, yet.
#2
Lift
I have arelatively low garage (not as low as yours) but have opted for a mid-rise scissor lift. From what I have read and researched, not quite as versitile as a 2 poster but will get most things done. As a bonus, it runs on 110v!
#4
I've got 220, so that isn't an issue. But I really need to stack a couple of cars. I've got 7 cars and a 3 car garage (though one is stored at a relative's farm). really need to clean up the driveway and give my wife a bay (and sell the 968). But yes, dealing with a last minute transaxle change was a bit of an impetus to just getting SOMETHING, so function beyond just stacking cars is definately important!
#5
#6
I have a low profile two post lift with posts 8ft high. The cables run across the floor under a metal hump. I can stack cars with a 9.5' ceiling. My particular manufacturer is no longer around, but I've seen others that make them.
#7
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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#8
#9
My lift was made by autolifters. After they went under, some of the employees started a new co and kept making them. This is the one I have:
http://www.allamericanlifts.com/8oooFdiagram.html
There are better lifts around, but it has met my needs pretty well for home use over the last several years.
http://www.allamericanlifts.com/8oooFdiagram.html
There are better lifts around, but it has met my needs pretty well for home use over the last several years.
#11
Our new house has 10' 6" garage celing, which still isn't enough for a full height lift unless I do the same thing.
#12
Cory M, sorry I misread your post! I somehow saw "truss" and inferred "column."
ltc, interesting idea, but the main thing I need is a way to lift teh car by the frame, rather than the wheels.
#13
I can't freakin win for losing.
Got a lift from Greg Smith Equipment. Cut holes in the cieling, reinforced the joist where I had to trim it, got the columns placed, etc.
I had an anchor bolt on each column fail. They are not the rear-most ones, but the ones on the sides close to the back. On one side, the collar appanetly didn't stay below that step, and the bolt would spin. Drilled around it, and poured some concrete around it hoping I'd be able to get it to work. The stuff I was using was made for holding in place bolts, and said it would cure in 30 minutes. A day later, it didn't.
The other side is the one that kills me. Trying to torque down the anchor bolts, and one pulls up. Not quite out, but up a good ways. Like a couple of inches, meaning that collar would not be nearly as deep as it should. So I try to remove it, thinking I can fill with more concrete and redrill. Instead, I manage to break the concrete around it.
So now what? I can't decide how much tension those bolts are under. I would kind of think a lot, but then when you look at it, it almost seems the lift is designed to transfer all of the weight directly down. Not sure how effectively it does that, it does seem like a large moment would be placed on it, but it also looks like the thing works like a portable deer stand.
Does anyone know a fair amount about these things? Can I cut away just the cracked part, and fill with some fresh asphalt? Or do I need to remove the column fully and cut a big box out essentially starting over?
Got a lift from Greg Smith Equipment. Cut holes in the cieling, reinforced the joist where I had to trim it, got the columns placed, etc.
I had an anchor bolt on each column fail. They are not the rear-most ones, but the ones on the sides close to the back. On one side, the collar appanetly didn't stay below that step, and the bolt would spin. Drilled around it, and poured some concrete around it hoping I'd be able to get it to work. The stuff I was using was made for holding in place bolts, and said it would cure in 30 minutes. A day later, it didn't.
The other side is the one that kills me. Trying to torque down the anchor bolts, and one pulls up. Not quite out, but up a good ways. Like a couple of inches, meaning that collar would not be nearly as deep as it should. So I try to remove it, thinking I can fill with more concrete and redrill. Instead, I manage to break the concrete around it.
So now what? I can't decide how much tension those bolts are under. I would kind of think a lot, but then when you look at it, it almost seems the lift is designed to transfer all of the weight directly down. Not sure how effectively it does that, it does seem like a large moment would be placed on it, but it also looks like the thing works like a portable deer stand.
Does anyone know a fair amount about these things? Can I cut away just the cracked part, and fill with some fresh asphalt? Or do I need to remove the column fully and cut a big box out essentially starting over?
#15
I'm assuming the concrete spalled around the baseplate was the product of your prying on the bolt and not anything due to tightening the bolts.
Not real clear on your apparent fix involving additional drilling and concrete? drilling more of the concrete out will just make it weaker. If you are using expansion bolts I would stop right there and go out and get HILTI expoy inserts. get the same size as the ones that came with the lift. These are a self contained epoxy anchor, just put it in the hole hammer it in and it will release the two part epoxy. You want the insert with female threads, then use a bolt to bolt the baseplate down. that way when you remove it you will only see a threaded hole in the slab.
The way to remove a wedge type insert is to knock it loose by hitting it down. if you can see the expansion sleeve tap it loose with a small screwdriver and then slide the whole thing out. If that doesn't work then its torch time. If you drilled all the way through the slab you can just pound it to china and put in another bolt. Another option is to call the concrete coring guys and have them drill out a 4" hole or so and pour it back with an anchor bolt. If the slab isn't all messed up you can just unbolt the whole thing, slide it over to fresh concrete and redrill. Pain in the *** but might be easiest.
If it appears at any point the slab is not up to snuff, I would call a concrete coring company and have them core a large opening or sawcut a 3'x3' square and pour a small footing with anchor bolts. Not hard to do or all that expensive. PS: don't ask for asphalt, you will get blacktop, what you want is concrete, to fill the chips you will want a leveling compound or non shrink cementitious grout.
anyway good luck with it.
Not real clear on your apparent fix involving additional drilling and concrete? drilling more of the concrete out will just make it weaker. If you are using expansion bolts I would stop right there and go out and get HILTI expoy inserts. get the same size as the ones that came with the lift. These are a self contained epoxy anchor, just put it in the hole hammer it in and it will release the two part epoxy. You want the insert with female threads, then use a bolt to bolt the baseplate down. that way when you remove it you will only see a threaded hole in the slab.
The way to remove a wedge type insert is to knock it loose by hitting it down. if you can see the expansion sleeve tap it loose with a small screwdriver and then slide the whole thing out. If that doesn't work then its torch time. If you drilled all the way through the slab you can just pound it to china and put in another bolt. Another option is to call the concrete coring guys and have them drill out a 4" hole or so and pour it back with an anchor bolt. If the slab isn't all messed up you can just unbolt the whole thing, slide it over to fresh concrete and redrill. Pain in the *** but might be easiest.
If it appears at any point the slab is not up to snuff, I would call a concrete coring company and have them core a large opening or sawcut a 3'x3' square and pour a small footing with anchor bolts. Not hard to do or all that expensive. PS: don't ask for asphalt, you will get blacktop, what you want is concrete, to fill the chips you will want a leveling compound or non shrink cementitious grout.
anyway good luck with it.