End of season, same comparison, R6 v. R1
#1
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Now that 2011 is closing, I wonder if folks have a greater base for comparison.
How have the BFG R1s held up vs. Hoho R6s and.......does anyone have real data to support performance of one versus the other.
I have no data but would suggest they seem to fall off gradually after 16 HCs or so and remain consistent after that until, for me, they loose it at 25. They also "seem" to take longer than R6s to get to temp.
How have the BFG R1s held up vs. Hoho R6s and.......does anyone have real data to support performance of one versus the other.
I have no data but would suggest they seem to fall off gradually after 16 HCs or so and remain consistent after that until, for me, they loose it at 25. They also "seem" to take longer than R6s to get to temp.
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R6 is better in heat cycle #1 and #2. They are pretty damned close thereafter, but IMO the Hoosier will wear out whereas the BFG will heat cycle out.
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But only with the caveat that you are truly driving the car 100%, if you are driving it at 80-90% of the cars potential then the tires will last much longer before falling off. I think this is one of the big confusions over people having differences of opinions on how long each tire lasts. If you are driving to the cars potential they won't last as long, if you are driving to your potential then they will last for more heat cycles before you notice a difference. I will also say that car prep could play into this also.
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Fully agree.
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Track surface makes a huge difference as well. On a good set of R6's that didn't get beat to death the 1st couple of HC's they have lasted 15-20 HC. Sometimes they are done at 12-14.
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#8
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Though my use was on a 944, not 911, I got pretty decent life out of the R1 this year. I ran probably 1000 race miles total on the track on 1 set of tires... 26 heat cycles. Corded one tire the last weekend of the year then went out on scrubbed stickers and spanked the guys on worn out R6's.
I probably could have gotten better wear on that set but I didn't flip them on the rims to balance wear. That's definitely longer life than we're seeing on R6 in the same application.
The peak grip did seem to fall off mid-season for sure. Overall I was quite happy with them for the value. I have to agree with VR that they probably can't hang with the R6 for raw grip when new but I think in the middle part of their life cycle they are pretty close to even.
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The peak grip did seem to fall off mid-season for sure. Overall I was quite happy with them for the value. I have to agree with VR that they probably can't hang with the R6 for raw grip when new but I think in the middle part of their life cycle they are pretty close to even.
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On the Boxster I ran both R6 and R1 this year. I thought the grip with the Hoosier was better compared to the BFG but I could not make the Hoosiers last very long. The first set of R6 I ran also got out of round or horribly imbalanced after sitting overnight and I had to swap them. I really preferred the grip of R6 but I couldn't justify getting such a short life out of them especially since I just play and don't race. On one set of R1s I got almost 600 miles of driving over a 2 1/2 day period before they were significantly slower.
All that being said, if I were racing and really wanted to be competitive, I'd go with the Hoosiers realizing they wouldn't last long.
All that being said, if I were racing and really wanted to be competitive, I'd go with the Hoosiers realizing they wouldn't last long.
#10
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i havent run the R1 in about 2 years but the last set i had while they did great, it seemed to me that if you overheated the tire it took like 2-4 laps to really get the good grip back
an R6 on the otherhand seems to get its grip back in a lap or less.
didnt have data till after i made the R6 switch but maybe ill have to go out and try an R1 again for the hallibut.
never corded an R1, corded many R6
an R6 on the otherhand seems to get its grip back in a lap or less.
didnt have data till after i made the R6 switch but maybe ill have to go out and try an R1 again for the hallibut.
never corded an R1, corded many R6
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It seems the general thoughts have not changed over the season:
R1s are or are not faster/slower than R6s; we have no real data one way or the other.
R1s seem to last longer than R6s, given a (non-quantified) drop off in performance after a certain number of heat cycles.
R1s probably take longer to come to temp than R6s.
R1s probably take longer to come back after overheating than R6s.
R1s are or are not faster/slower than R6s; we have no real data one way or the other.
R1s seem to last longer than R6s, given a (non-quantified) drop off in performance after a certain number of heat cycles.
R1s probably take longer to come to temp than R6s.
R1s probably take longer to come back after overheating than R6s.
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It seems the general thoughts have not changed over the season:
R1s are or are not faster/slower than R6s; we have no real data one way or the other.
R1s seem to last longer than R6s, given a (non-quantified) drop off in performance after a certain number of heat cycles.
R1s probably take longer to come to temp than R6s.
R1s probably take longer to come back after overheating than R6s.
R1s are or are not faster/slower than R6s; we have no real data one way or the other.
R1s seem to last longer than R6s, given a (non-quantified) drop off in performance after a certain number of heat cycles.
R1s probably take longer to come to temp than R6s.
R1s probably take longer to come back after overheating than R6s.
#13
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But...
which oil to use and how long before I get promoted from the Beige run group to the Tan run group?
Actually, these two tires have been the topic of dissusion (some heated) for quite some time. I find it interesting that we spend thousands on data aquisition and video, spend less on proper coaching and even less time quantifying the choice of tires.
Now I've opened the can...
which oil to use and how long before I get promoted from the Beige run group to the Tan run group?
Actually, these two tires have been the topic of dissusion (some heated) for quite some time. I find it interesting that we spend thousands on data aquisition and video, spend less on proper coaching and even less time quantifying the choice of tires.
Now I've opened the can...
#14
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But...
which oil to use and how long before I get promoted from the Beige run group to the Tan run group?
Actually, these two tires have been the topic of dissusion (some heated) for quite some time. I find it interesting that we spend thousands on data aquisition and video, spend less on proper coaching and even less time quantifying the choice of tires.
Now I've opened the can...
which oil to use and how long before I get promoted from the Beige run group to the Tan run group?
Actually, these two tires have been the topic of dissusion (some heated) for quite some time. I find it interesting that we spend thousands on data aquisition and video, spend less on proper coaching and even less time quantifying the choice of tires.
Now I've opened the can...
I can say for me, the Hoosiers are a bunch quicker becuase they work for me and my car better, but I don't drive like the typical 914 driver.
#15
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I've used both and find the R1 to be about a second a lap slower for me. However, the R1 lasts much longer than the R6. I'm not sure if it's my driving style or car setup- but I chew through rear R6 (285/30/18) in ~8 heat cycles. I can get two days out of set of rears at Mid-Ohio before I cord them and three days at VIR. I'm swapping them at the end of each day too.
I've also had two Yoko slick failures at VIR both going into NASCAR bend- makes for a wild ride! VR, do you think I could change my driving style to help save my tires?
I've also had two Yoko slick failures at VIR both going into NASCAR bend- makes for a wild ride! VR, do you think I could change my driving style to help save my tires?