SG_M3

If someone is buying new hoosiers, I'd hope they know how to set their cold pressures so the tire comes up to the correct pressure and temp. This applies to a qual session and during a race, they will be different. Qual should only be 2-4 laps, if you can't get a fast lap in that time, you're never going to get it.

M758

This is not as easy as it appears... I have never had all 4 tires rise by exactly the same amount. Each tire will rise by slight different levels depending on which corner of the car based on the track. Ideal starting pressures for Miller motorsports park for exmaple varried by 1-2 psi per tire all to equal the same hot pressure.

pmason

Joe, I haven't run NT01's on the race car (968 E class) only Hoosiers, came with Hoosiers. Only NT01 experance is on the 911 DE car, still have a new set for that car of course not the right sizes for the 968. Aug. last year is when I bought the 968 car, and was already a well prepared E class car, so been learning the car late last year and begining of this year. So its all set up for Hoosiers and the data I received from the PO support that config.

FredC

As I said, my advice is based on my very limited experience as a continuously learning D and E class PCA racer... And you're either a pro or temporarily full of hot air with your 2-4 laps remark. It's not true at all unless you are assuming a clear track. Don't throw stuff like this out to a guy who is asking advice as a rookie dude, no matter how great or experienced you are.

And i bow to you for getting pressures right from the get go. I'd love to know how to do that...

SG_M3

Who says the starting pressure will all be the same? Its not hard to figure out, after a couple of events you can get it down.

SG_M3

There are multiple people reading this, and no need to treat a rookie with kid gloves. He should see what the front runners are doing, stuff i'm talking about, and start to incorporate these things into his own routine.

I'm not pro, just a decent club racer. Getting space, then ripping off a flyer or two should be common practice. If a driver is that inconsistent so that cant be accomplished, then sticker tires are not something to be worried about. Dude.

FredC

then I guess you just saved me $1,300 bucks in tires for this weekend's PCA club race at the Glen.

Lemming

I always shoot for my qualifying lap to occur in the first couple of hot laps. If I don't get it by hot lap 4, I'll pull into the hot pits and wait till late in the session to head back out after most have come in. I don't bother staying out as I start the session with my cold tire pressure only a few pounds less than hot tire pressure. Why, I want my tires up to temp and pressure by my first hot lap (A6's).

I've raced with SG-M3 and yes, he is pretty quick on track

TheOtherEric

Ah, ok. Guys I've spoken with are getting quite a bit more life out of Hoosiers than what you're saying (commonly run up to 12 heat cycles). Perhaps scrubbing them in really does extend life?? Just a thought.

+1.

multi21

If on a budget and can't afford new set of tires each race weekend, I'd have a set of wheels with Hoosiers for Quali ONLY. If you're not in the front of the pack, then use a Nitto NT-01 or Toyos for the race. If you are close to the front of the pack then you almost have to use the Hoosiers for sprint race to stay up front.

If the goal is to set the fastest lap possible then the Hoosier set should last you several race weekends for qualifying only. Lap times during a race usually are slower than qualifying thus the use of lesser tires.

All older tires used for practice.

For an enduro, go with an NT-01.

Once again this is for a person on a budget

M758

My advice is to recored all the setting as is. Save them in a logbook or something and then change it if needed. The simple fact is that a good race set-up is very driver dependant. Meaning that the car is tuned to the driver and then to the track. So what worked for the PO may not work at all for you even if you are on the same tires. Don't throw it away, but don't assume that it will work for you.

Very fast guys will set-up a car to run on the edge such that it may be hard for a rookie to handle. You maybe fast with a less agressive set-up. Even things like tire wear can change if you don't push the car hard in every turn like the last guy. That is one thing I work on with 944 spec guys. They each need to figure out their own set-up as what I like and works for me may be "scary loose" to someone else or "understeer like dump truck". The other thing is that the PO may not have had a good set-up even to start with.

So again record alignment settings and all other adjustable elements and save them just incase you want to back, but don't stay fixaed on that set-up as it may not work for. This applies even if you run the same tires on the same tracks.

M758

That is my point. Starting pressures will not be the same all around and that is why unless you have it locked in best to run one session to set the pressures.

If you run at different tracks or even the same tracks at different times of the year you can still be off when you roll off the trailer. If you do your homework you can dial in the pressures just right, but I have seen alot of guys that don't do that. At NASA Nationals in 2009 I ran the test day were I took tire pressures and temps after each of my 5 practice sessions. It took alot more effort to pull into pit lane and check tire pressures/temps rather than go back to the paddock and hop out of the car grab a water. It was valuable to me as I adjusted the car and nailed tire pressures, but some guys don't put that effort in. In that case running a session and setting is much easier if not as precise.

M758

I have to agree with this. In my experience best qualifying lap is achieved in first 1-4 from the drop of the green. Most of the time if you have clear track the lap times will drop off slightly after these first few. The exception is traffic or a mistake on the first few laps or if you learning the track. All you need to do to confirm is to see which lap the fast lap was set. Most of the time on results sheets it wil be in the first 5 laps for 80% of the field.

So the goal of qualy should be to get out and cut off 2-3 fast laps and then get off track. If you need more practice time fine, say out. However stil try for fast lap early and let the rest of the session be for practice.

jrgordonsenior

Agreed. It's also important to run higher starting cold pressures if you're running stickers in qualifying versus cold racing pressures. As others have pointed out, you want to get your qual laps over in 3, 4 laps at the most. You can damage cold tires by running them hard underinflated, so run 2-3 more lbs. than cold race pressures. If you can't get it done in 4 then come in, bleed a few lbs off and head back out. Bleed again when you come back in.....

FWIW, I stagger my cold pressures for rear engined Porsches.
Highest pressure at inside front, 1lb. less for inside rear, that same pressure for outside front, and then -1 for outside rear. Different tracks load tires differently, but that should get you close to equal hot pressures....

PS: Friends don't let friends waste stickers for practice. Yell at them if necessary....

jrgordonsenior

Speaking of qualifying strategy.... I always try to be the first one to grid or damn close because I want to get it done on the first hot lap if possible. I know who's faster than me and who's not, and my competitors know where I fit. So I'll point by anyone on the out lap who I know is faster as I don't want them behind me. Conversly, I don't want to be held up so I stay as close as possible to the fastest cars. When we go hot onto the straight I'm then in good position to run at least 1 unhindered hot lap, maybe even 2....