Race ABS Conversion on 987.2 Cayman S
#1
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Race ABS Conversion on 987.2 Cayman S
While I'm cheating the clock by beginning with all of the necessary parts in-hand, I will still report back with any issues with install, plumbing, execution, etc.
Cheers.
John
Cheers.
John
#3
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We haven't had any failures now after nearly two years of running the factory 2nd generation Cayman S ABS system on the 987.2 car and I'm curious to do a back to back and expand on the very limited feedback of "i dunno...it just feels better."
See you in CT in a few days.
John
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Alright gents. All done. She survived the shakedown around the park and seems to be acting fine.
Steps were as follows:
1. Unpin all 4 wheel speed signals and 4 corresponding grounds from the OEM chassis harness where they plug into the ABS DME.
2. Drain the brake fluid reservoir and disconnect all hydraulic lines from the master.
3. Remove the OEM hydraulic pump/brain.
4. Pin those OEM 8 wires into the standalone ABS harness.
5. Unpin and pin the brake light switch wire from the OEM harness nto the ABS harness.
6. Connect all supplied hydraulic lines using (4 braided brake lines and 2 Ts for the front/rear pressure sensors)
7. Install Teves/Continental MK60 hydraulic unit/brain.
8. Install ABS harness consisting of the following odds/ends:
- LED light and 3-way switch to be run to center switch panel as indicator for driver that all systems are working
- Wheel speed and brake pressure output for signals for AIM data.
- Circuit breakers (30/30/10)
- Lateral G Sensor
- Lat G ground
- Diagnostic Cable Plug-In
- Relay
- Front/Rear Brake Pressure Sensors
- ABS Hydraulic Unit DME Connector
- ABS Hydraulic Unit & DME
Drop me a line with any questions, comments or observations.
John
Steps were as follows:
1. Unpin all 4 wheel speed signals and 4 corresponding grounds from the OEM chassis harness where they plug into the ABS DME.
2. Drain the brake fluid reservoir and disconnect all hydraulic lines from the master.
3. Remove the OEM hydraulic pump/brain.
4. Pin those OEM 8 wires into the standalone ABS harness.
5. Unpin and pin the brake light switch wire from the OEM harness nto the ABS harness.
6. Connect all supplied hydraulic lines using (4 braided brake lines and 2 Ts for the front/rear pressure sensors)
7. Install Teves/Continental MK60 hydraulic unit/brain.
8. Install ABS harness consisting of the following odds/ends:
- LED light and 3-way switch to be run to center switch panel as indicator for driver that all systems are working
- Wheel speed and brake pressure output for signals for AIM data.
- Circuit breakers (30/30/10)
- Lateral G Sensor
- Lat G ground
- Diagnostic Cable Plug-In
- Relay
- Front/Rear Brake Pressure Sensors
- ABS Hydraulic Unit DME Connector
- ABS Hydraulic Unit & DME
Drop me a line with any questions, comments or observations.
John
#7
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So you installed the BMW Motorsports unit then, it's a great system, and of course it works, it's a stand alone ABS system when done like that. Although most people don't like it because it looses some things. - No PSM, no speedo (atleast on the earlier cars), and of course the biggie that most people can't seem to get over is the cost factor. While cheaper than the Bosch Motorsports ABS system, you can still hardly say it is a cheap system.
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So you installed the BMW Motorsports unit then, it's a great system, and of course it works, it's a stand alone ABS system when done like that. Although most people don't like it because it looses some things. - No PSM, no speedo (atleast on the earlier cars), and of course the biggie that most people can't seem to get over is the cost factor. While cheaper than the Bosch Motorsports ABS system, you can still hardly say it is a cheap system.
I will let you know though that if you can build the harness and source the connectors, this is achievable with a factory E46 M3 pump/brain. So it's not nearly as expensive as the Bosch and seen by many as every bit as suitable. I never said it was a cheap system!
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I'm with you and for those reasons I haven't wanted to remove it. 1. Cost 2. Loss of PSM 3. Headaches, etc., yada. But we're doing this to push the edge of the envelope beause it's allowed per the rules.
I will let you know though that if you can build the harness and source the connectors, this is achievable with a factory E46 M3 pump/brain. So it's not nearly as expensive as the Bosch and seen by many as every bit as suitable. I never said it was a cheap system!
I will let you know though that if you can build the harness and source the connectors, this is achievable with a factory E46 M3 pump/brain. So it's not nearly as expensive as the Bosch and seen by many as every bit as suitable. I never said it was a cheap system!
I know on the cheap part, that's just a big killer for most people/customers.
Are you using the new software (motorsports reprogram) ? There are a few generations of this software now although I am sure you are already aware of it.
If they allow it, and it's in the budget, it's a great system, as you already know from using it in the previous GA cars. As for losing PSM and the speedo, etc, those things don't matter much to me but to the guy using it as a DE car or such it's like the end of the world.
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Installed, figure around 7k+/- with the reprogrammed software, custom wiring harness, sensors, unit, and sometimes making a line or two if you don't have a true 4 channel system. You could do a non-reprogrammed unit for less but it's the software that makes it so great.
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Installed, figure around 7k+/- with the reprogrammed software, custom wiring harness, sensors, unit, and sometimes making a line or two if you don't have a true 4 channel system. You could do a non-reprogrammed unit for less but it's the software that makes it so great.
As for brains, I've tried this with the stock E46 M3 street brain and an M3 CSL brain. The reprogrammed ones are spoken of like urban legends. I'm dying to find someone that can tell me what's in there or how they have written to them.
Thanks.
John
#13
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I figure that's about right but I think we could probably hit that mark and deliver it installed at those levels.
As for brains, I've tried this with the stock E46 M3 street brain and an M3 CSL brain. The reprogrammed ones are spoken of like urban legends. I'm dying to find someone that can tell me what's in there or how they have written to them.
Thanks.
John
As for brains, I've tried this with the stock E46 M3 street brain and an M3 CSL brain. The reprogrammed ones are spoken of like urban legends. I'm dying to find someone that can tell me what's in there or how they have written to them.
Thanks.
John
No urban legend. The E46 Teves street brain is better than the Porsche OEM, the CSL even better than the street brain. But the reprogrammed Teves Motorsports is the best, actually it's pretty amazing. I had thought that is the system GA allowed ? I know it's what a few others had been using for a program/system. It was reprogrammed by the BMW Motorsports program for racing purposes only, it's been developed even better over the years.
#14
Very interesting thread guys-- so thankyou for sharing.Can you give me a few clues on what is needed to install on a 997 Cup(non ABS) . My preference is to try and purchase as a complete kit-- so to speak.I would be looking at buying more than one.Needless to say-- I want the best system possible at the best price!!
I also have a 996 Cup that had the ABS removed!! So would look at that also.Any help much appreciated.
I also have a 996 Cup that had the ABS removed!! So would look at that also.Any help much appreciated.
#15
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I tried the BMW abs in two Grand-Am 911s and hated it, maybe it will work better in a mid engine car? They were like hitting an ice patch when the ABS kicked in compared to the 996 GT3 cup ABS. Don't need no stinkin ABS on the 997 cups, locking up saved my *** at Sebring this year. I prefer more control.