Trailer Workbench?
#18
Herr Unmöglich
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Looks like a great trailer Scott... I can see the subtle differences between our two units. The trim package up front looks nice as do the LED tails.
Be sure to setup the Reese correctly. I spent like 5 hours doing everything and as soon as I made a left hand turn it literally sheared the heavy duty bolts holding the cam to the trailer. Don't know what I did wrong but at this point I am having a trailer shop deal with it. Nothing like drilling holes in a new trailer frame and then having to deal with that nonsense. Still works fine just using the torsion bars but for towing to Spokane and THill I will want the full setup for sure.
Be sure to setup the Reese correctly. I spent like 5 hours doing everything and as soon as I made a left hand turn it literally sheared the heavy duty bolts holding the cam to the trailer. Don't know what I did wrong but at this point I am having a trailer shop deal with it. Nothing like drilling holes in a new trailer frame and then having to deal with that nonsense. Still works fine just using the torsion bars but for towing to Spokane and THill I will want the full setup for sure.
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
Looks like a great trailer Scott... I can see the subtle differences between our two units. The trim package up front looks nice as do the LED tails.
Be sure to setup the Reese correctly. I spent like 5 hours doing everything and as soon as I made a left hand turn it literally sheared the heavy duty bolts holding the cam to the trailer. Don't know what I did wrong but at this point I am having a trailer shop deal with it. Nothing like drilling holes in a new trailer frame and then having to deal with that nonsense. Still works fine just using the torsion bars but for towing to Spokane and THill I will want the full setup for sure.
Be sure to setup the Reese correctly. I spent like 5 hours doing everything and as soon as I made a left hand turn it literally sheared the heavy duty bolts holding the cam to the trailer. Don't know what I did wrong but at this point I am having a trailer shop deal with it. Nothing like drilling holes in a new trailer frame and then having to deal with that nonsense. Still works fine just using the torsion bars but for towing to Spokane and THill I will want the full setup for sure.
The Reese install went fine for me with one caveat. There was a video showing how to install the Reese we both have on the eTrailer web site. It was quite helpful.
After installing it all I drove around and did some tight right and left hand turns as well as a u-turn. All worked as expected with one problem. The safety chain mounts on the trailer frame are in a bad place and the trunnion bars hit them. One was hit so hard it broke and the other is bent. I will have to get new mounts welded on in a different location.
Scott
#20
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
i have reese dual cam. you can make very tight u turn no prob. never had issue.
put blobs of vaseline on it if you hear noises
put blobs of vaseline on it if you hear noises
#21
Herr Unmöglich
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Scott, I had the same problem with the chains, and broke the left one on that same turn. Perhaps that is actually what got me. But I have to get out of my driveway somehow!
#22
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
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After reading your post a little bit closer this may not work very well for you if you primarily use plastic containers. This works well if you like to bring almost all of your tools to the track.
These are the 2 Gladiator tool chests that I roll in/out of the trailer for race weekends.
I built the above out of 2x4's, plywood, and a laminate counter top material. The tool chests fit tightly underneath the trailer work bench with ~1/4" to spare on top, and about 2' or so left towards the left. I put a strap across them during transport but it's probably not necessary. I stack some plastic containers on the 2' space on the left. I've rarely used the coat hanger area on the right, suits usually just end up thrown over a chair. Plus my spare tires(I carry 2 now) get wedged in there.
... might be time to clean the trailer .
These are the 2 Gladiator tool chests that I roll in/out of the trailer for race weekends.
I built the above out of 2x4's, plywood, and a laminate counter top material. The tool chests fit tightly underneath the trailer work bench with ~1/4" to spare on top, and about 2' or so left towards the left. I put a strap across them during transport but it's probably not necessary. I stack some plastic containers on the 2' space on the left. I've rarely used the coat hanger area on the right, suits usually just end up thrown over a chair. Plus my spare tires(I carry 2 now) get wedged in there.
... might be time to clean the trailer .
#23
Race Car
Thread Starter
Greg,
If I were planning on taking a ton of tools to the track, the toolbox idea would be great. But I just don't need that much tool storage. My 26" W x 16" D x 20" H Craftsman tool chest will hold most the tools I need. The bigger stuff will go in a storage bin of some type.
I need more room for spare parts, oils, greases, fasteners, fuses, cleaners, waxes, fiberglass repair materials, etc.
All of the storage bins will be clearly labeled so finding what I need will be fast. The storage bins make it easier to unload the trailer when the weekend is done.
I'm still pondering, but that 8' workbench in my first post is still the front runner.
Thanks,
Scott
If I were planning on taking a ton of tools to the track, the toolbox idea would be great. But I just don't need that much tool storage. My 26" W x 16" D x 20" H Craftsman tool chest will hold most the tools I need. The bigger stuff will go in a storage bin of some type.
I need more room for spare parts, oils, greases, fasteners, fuses, cleaners, waxes, fiberglass repair materials, etc.
All of the storage bins will be clearly labeled so finding what I need will be fast. The storage bins make it easier to unload the trailer when the weekend is done.
I'm still pondering, but that 8' workbench in my first post is still the front runner.
Thanks,
Scott
#24
Race Director
Winders,
While my gorilla rack solution was not prettiest it does work really well for me.
The L Shape works perfect in my 24' trailer I like that I can stack my storage boxes on shelfs. This way one is not resting on the other making it easier to get to them. The surface on top is large enough to hold alot of stuff.
Plust is cheap. Figure $65 for storage rack and $30 for 4x8 sheet of nice plywood. Then paint.
While my gorilla rack solution was not prettiest it does work really well for me.
The L Shape works perfect in my 24' trailer I like that I can stack my storage boxes on shelfs. This way one is not resting on the other making it easier to get to them. The surface on top is large enough to hold alot of stuff.
Plust is cheap. Figure $65 for storage rack and $30 for 4x8 sheet of nice plywood. Then paint.
#25
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well, I went with the workbench in my first post in this thread. I must say I am very happy that I did. It is a well made and solid workbench. I have included a couple of photos.
By the way, I bolted the toolbox to the top work surface. It's not going anywhere!
Thanks,
Scott
By the way, I bolted the toolbox to the top work surface. It's not going anywhere!
Thanks,
Scott