Someone once told me that brakes pads are cheaper than transmissions rebuilds......

 

Mark, pad amount was about 85%.......at the beginning of the 2 day event.....

 

Everyone has given you good info for most tracks, but the only correct answer at NHMS is to get more cooling and a higher temp pad. Raybestos stand up best at that track in any pad I've seen run there. Stock pads probably don't stand a chance.

The track simply has too many braking zones in too little time.

 

That's an 'oh crap' moment, that's for sure; should never have happened as you had time to cool the pads after turn 1.
I'm guessing thin pads as suggested by others. How much pad is left?
Never happened with this car before, right?
Brakes were bled before event? Bleeders snugged down tight? No fluid leakage?
Bad place to lose brakes...you did well to stay out of the wall.

 

You may want to give Pagid Yellow's a try as well as adding the GT3 Brake Duct Spoilers.

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...=caymanSbrakes

 

When was the last time you bled your brakes? I have a Cayman and it the brakes will fade on it if I don't bleed regularly (every 2nd DE) and I am using Motul 600.

 

PagId says their RS 14 black pad is good to 1200F before fade, which is somewhat higher than Pagid Yellow. I hear Raybesto is also good. I have good luck with black on both axles and a 3000 lbs. car without ducting. Black are about half again as reactive as orange, and well suited for more aggressive track events. Very little squeal, street or track.

 

In addition to pad selection and the addition of the GT3 ducts/spoilers (bottom of picture), you may want to install the wheel liners and air deflectors from the GT2 (center). This dumps the radiator exhaust air directly onto the inside of the rotor.

They install relatively easily with just some modest trimming to the liner, deflector, and heat shields. The mounting tab for the deflector strut is already on the car from the factory (shared tub).

Here is a photo of the installation on my Cayman (see avatar):

 

Paolo, PSM on or off?

 

+1
I like pagid yellow front, pagid black on rear, better balance, never seen any fade.

 

Keep in mind that all the fluid doesn't boil at the same time. If you get brake fade at a bad spot (heading towards an obstruction) you gotta keep pumping the brakes and try to take an early apex to lengthen the braking zone - the rears (which are probably not close to overheating) will still slow the car down. Also, don't ride the clutch - get some engine drag if you can.

As for brake system: you can only do so much. First, make sure that your system is matched - i.e, proper pad for the tire. After that, better air flow works wonders. High temp fluid (which you already have). Then add mass (sucks to add unsprung weight, but the extra rotor mass will help). Try slotted or dimpled, vs cross drilled. At some point, you can add [titanium] backing plates. Also, check you data to be sure you are not dragging the brakes for long periods rather than heavy braking in short bursts.

In my experience, brakes don't just give out. There are a couple zones of "hmm, the pedal is getting a bit long." When this happens you need to be prepared for it.

YMMV.

-td

 

Switching brake lines to inox can help a lot

 

+3 on the PASM question... it could have been working hard to keep you "safe"....

 

RS4-4s are more prone to fad once you get past 50% without extra cooling.

 

Here is what I had done on my stock CS, worked beautifully, never had fade:

https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...roper-way.html