stock vs aftermarket wheels on DE
#4
The Penguin King
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All other things being equal, use the 18's. The tires should be cheaper in that size. However, we really don't know if all other things are equal without more information.
#7
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If your cross weights are off, you can use the following:
RF - 19 / LF - 18
LR - 18 / RR - 19.
Also, you can inflate the tires differently to remedy any alignment issues. For example, the RF-19 can be at 32 psi (hot) and the LF-18 can be at 45 psi (hot). Another trick is to set your sway bar according to the wheel size. That is RF-19 could be at full stiff, but the LF-18 could be at 1 from soft. This works great if you are a track with lots of left hand turns. Similarly, you can run different tire compounds or brake pads between the 19/18 wheels depending on the track direction.
And, if your setup is even farther off, you can just run 1 18 (over-inflated, of course) in the front. That usually fixes any issues.
-td
[check date, please]
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#11
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If your cross weights are off, you can use the following:
RF - 19 / LF - 18
LR - 18 / RR - 19.
Also, you can inflate the tires differently to remedy any alignment issues. For example, the RF-19 can be at 32 psi (hot) and the LF-18 can be at 45 psi (hot). Another trick is to set your sway bar according to the wheel size. That is RF-19 could be at full stiff, but the LF-18 could be at 1 from soft. This works great if you are a track with lots of left hand turns. Similarly, you can run different tire compounds or brake pads between the 19/18 wheels depending on the track direction.
And, if your setup is even farther off, you can just run 1 18 (over-inflated, of course) in the front. That usually fixes any issues.
-td
[check date, please]
RF - 19 / LF - 18
LR - 18 / RR - 19.
Also, you can inflate the tires differently to remedy any alignment issues. For example, the RF-19 can be at 32 psi (hot) and the LF-18 can be at 45 psi (hot). Another trick is to set your sway bar according to the wheel size. That is RF-19 could be at full stiff, but the LF-18 could be at 1 from soft. This works great if you are a track with lots of left hand turns. Similarly, you can run different tire compounds or brake pads between the 19/18 wheels depending on the track direction.
And, if your setup is even farther off, you can just run 1 18 (over-inflated, of course) in the front. That usually fixes any issues.
-td
[check date, please]
#12
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Run both sets and see if you can feel the difference, quantify the difference and determine which set works best for you.
#14
The Penguin King
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Based on the question, I'm guessing that the OP is relatively new to DE's & the track. If so, all the more reason to go with the smaller, cheaper wheels with the cheaper tires. Any advantage lighter wheels would give (I'm assuming the BBS wheels are lighter), would be insignificant, particularly in a DE environment where the objective is really to learn and maximize the performance of the driver. Furthermore, the lower compliance that is likely to come with the lower profile tires that would be on a 19" rim would most like hurt performance at least as much as the lighter rims might help.
Go with the 18's.
Go with the 18's.
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Based on the question, I'm guessing that the OP is relatively new to DE's & the track. If so, all the more reason to go with the smaller, cheaper wheels with the cheaper tires. Any advantage lighter wheels would give (I'm assuming the BBS wheels are lighter), would be insignificant, particularly in a DE environment where the objective is really to learn and maximize the performance of the driver. Furthermore, the lower compliance that is likely to come with the lower profile tires that would be on a 19" rim would most like hurt performance at least as much as the lighter rims might help.
Go with the 18's.
Go with the 18's.