This winter I am going to replace my SPBOX rear bumper cover and driver side door which were damaged this season (wife driving,...not me and yes I still love her).

I want to do the work myself as 1) I enjoy working on cars at my level and 2) I'm trying to keep costs down! I want the car to look decent, not concours and not ghetto.

I bought a door from German Auto Dismantlers which I was told was in great shape and was Black, the color of my car. I thought, hmmmm, that sounds like an easy bolt off bolt on operation. Well of course the door they sent me is midnight blue and not black.

So,....if I want to paint the door Porsche Black, would it be easier/cheaper to bring the door to a place like Maaco OR is there some way for me to DIY spray the door myself?

 

I've had good luck rattle-can painting parts as big as a bumper. A door would be tougher but probably Ok for a racer. The key is to lay down a nice coat of paint (several coats), and then use a medium-abrasive polishing compound to level it out and make it shine. Probably take two rattle cans for a door.

 

Take it to a local shop. If you use a Maaco, go to one with an older staff. They should have a nice paint booth and with a talented painter will do a nice match job. You could possibly get the paint coat on yourself with okay results, but the clear coat is really an art. BTW specify a two step and point out the issues with the door that you want fixed or they will only prep/paint the door. I have used various places to do paint work on my race car and ended up using a Maaco shop with a veteran painter that restores cars as a passion. His work is very good and he will take it to any level you want. BTW, consider having them paint the front nose and add the clear bra as soon as you can to protect from road chips.

 

Rustoleum Protective Enamel (available at Home Depot and others) is the simplest, most durable, and glossiest rattle-can I've found. It's available by the can for HVLP guns too. I know a few people who have painted entire race cars with it. When applied over decent prep work, it turns out really well. Or, you can just half-*** it and still have it look "race car good".

I can't see spending a lot of money on paint or body work for a race car... Cheap DIY jobs can turn out surprisingly well, and it's not like many people would notice if it didn't. Besides, it's just going to get beat up again anyway.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I would like to keep this on the cheaper side! It is a track only machine and its original paint isn't exactly concours to begin with. I'm also thinking that longer term if I sell the car someone might spray it in 'their' color.

I wonder if I should just buy a cheap paint gun at HD and get some Glossy Black paint. I think I'm lucky that the car is black as this is probably easiest to match! I know the RS Orange I have on my street car and my roll cage is not an easy one to match.

 

I've painted a few cars (as a hobbyist thing) and there are a couple things to note. Automotive paint is expensive if you want the real stuff. Price it out before you commit. Avoid cheap paint like PPG Omni. PPG Concept is nice. Whatever kind you decide on, talk to your supplier to see if it is fine with flexible parts (if your bumper cover is flexible) or if you need an additive of some kind.

See if you can borrow someone's HVLP conversion gun for an air compressor. You might also get away with an HVLP touch-up gun since the area is small.

Painting is messy (duh) and overspray will go where you don't expect. Move everything you don't want black far away.

Being a novice, you'll do a less than perfect job spraying. As long as your paint is sandable (some aren't), then you can correct any runs, dust nibs or level orange peel as long as you've laid down enough coats. I did 3 coats on the last car I painted and wish I did more (I want most of the orange peel gone). It was a base/clear with the clear being optional. I can add a layer of clear at any future date. fyi, I wetsanded to #2000 and then brought out the rotary polisher followed by the orbital. Orbital alone would've taken me a week to do the entire car. Do you have these tools?

For safety, some paints are very toxic. You'll want a full face mask with the proper filters at a minimum and some paints demand a fresh-air supplied respirator. I just used my full face mask and changed filters often.

Add up all your expenses and you'll probably end up spending more on your own (if using proper paint) than taking the parts to Maaco, especially if you strip the parts and do the finicky masking yourself.

Get an estimate from a shop and see what it would be. You might be pleasantly surprised, especially if the shop does work on Porsches and uses the same black paint. Just bring in your door and bumper when they ask and they can spray them at the same time they are painting another car. Perfect match and no hassle.

Good luck!

 

Allan pretty much summed it up. the set up and the prep takes a lot of time and dinero. Don't forget you have to have everything warm and dry and even with an hvlp you going to have overspray.

 

Hey Dave,

I know a local guy who can paint the door for at a very reasonably price. PM me if you are interested.
He build lots of race cars and does a lot of "race car" quality painting.

 

AllanJ is on the money. Your best bet is to find a local independent shop, that can pull paint inventory from their stash, you can prep it, they can spray it. Like Allan said - paint is expensive. A small shop will likely have some leftover paint, or at least thinners/hardeners on the shelf that they can use, and it will save you a good bit of money - possibly.

With all that being said - painting is FUN... (except for the fumes)

 

I think Allan sums it up best. I have a very nice hvlp sprayer I use for work and I will not use it to paint my car. My local paint shop is money well spent and likely only a small percentage more that DIY. I would look at learning work that may be required in a pinch at the track eg: replacing your clutch on your trailer; replacing half shafts, bearings etc.

 

Like the above. Unless you own conventional or HVLP spray equip it will not be cost effective for a one off paint job. The paint will likely cost $80 or so. You will need a single or double pack, base, catalyst, and reducer. As Brian said the shop will have the hardeners and reducers in stock. They will only need to buy the Porsche Black, unless they happen to have some. Either way you have to buy it. They will sell you what is necessary not a whole kit. The painting really is not that difficult. Practice on the old door so you get the hang of the flow. Don't work in a cold environment. Overlap each pass and always keep a wet edge. I would not bother with the products that require a separate clear coat. Not worth the extra effort in your case.

 

Ive used Harbor Freight guns with success, but the nozzles start to suck after a few times. You gotta start somewhere right? Now I use a DeVilbiss gun and it rocks. You just need to find an auto paint suppl place. Around here I use: http://profinishes.com/Locations/tabid/520/Default.aspx

You can get something like Dupont Nason FulThane Urethane for a track car. Clear is "built-in" and much easier to fix your errors. Lik eothers have said, you'll need catalyst and reducer. Both of which you can buy in smaller quantities. You can buy the paint in a quart and not be too bad.

Finally, you need to consider temperature. I usually paint all my stuff outside, but its too cold now and just brought it to a guy I know. If you can wait until after winter, when temps get back up to 65ish but still cold at night, you will have perfect outdoor painting conditions caus the bugs arent out yet and there is no pollen yet.

My entire racecar was painted outside in my driveway. Those who have seen it cannot believe I painted it in my driveway

 

Dave you'll be that hit of the hood when you start spray'n in the driveway

 

I'd be concerned about cat prints on the paint.

 

I do all my own paintwork in the garage. I just finished set of wheels, and prior to that did the front, fender, rear bumper, sunroof and door on my racecar. Paint supplies were $100 for the racecar, $80 for the wheels (thats paint, reducer, activator, thinner for cleanup, masking paper tape, filters etc) The paint supplier I use gives it to me redy reduced for spraying direct from the gun. I simply have to add the activator. The car is mettallic so base plus clear, for the wheels they were metallic I just didn't clear coat.

I love painting, and find it very therapeutic so prefer to do it myself. Fumes and overspray gets everywhere. Rattle cans work for small areas.

If you can remove the panels and take to a paintshop that's probably the best way to go, if your not setup already.