Carrera51

Do a good bedding in your first session. Follow Pagid's recommended bedding procedure. They are more finicky than Performance Friction or Hawk in this regard. At least that is my personal experience.

The link below contains Pagid's bedding procedure.

http://www.braketechnology.com/brakepadbedding.html

JimmyT

From my experience, if you have a stretch of highway where you can get up to about 75-80 you can do a pretty good job of bedding, but you need to do it when there is little to no traffic, so you can slow hard down to 20-30. You just need to do this more times, and slightly closer together than if you could do the last few from 100+. the lower starting speed makes doing them slightly closer together a natural occurance. To find roads with little traffic, I have to get out to 2 lane highway in rural areas in the exurbs, so it may mean a little bit of a drive, but the return trip home will be perfect to allow proper cooling before you park the car. I drive 2 hours to track days, so I now do this on the way up to the track, but the above is based on experience bedding near my house the very first time I put yellows in, when checking to make sure everything worked OK.

Dwane

Team RennSpoon members ALWAYS drive Flat Out!

Matt"Mr.Clean" fix your sig.

atr911

ROfL. Just make sure you're not out in front of me!

screech66

Sorry if this is a bit off topic, but I have a 2007 GT3 RS which originally had the ceramic rotors and Porsche factory pads. I loved the braking but was encouraged to switch to steel rotors and Pagid yellows to save on the cost of replacement, as the ceramic rotors wear out quick and are very expensive. I am not enjoying the Pagid yellow pads at all. At almost every event I go to, the brakes will be ok and then all of a sudden, at some turn I can't get the car slowed down. Yesterday I was doing maybe 100 mph or so and braking hard for about a 45mph turn and used probably 70 to 80% of my leg strength to get the car slowed down and I never felt a pulsating pedal, no tire squeal, just couldn't slow the car down enough. I have gone off track, or nearly off twice now because of this. I don't think it is the pads because everyone else speaks so highly of them for GT3's. I have AP Racing Endurance rotors, 380mm diameter, steel for the front and Porsche factory steel rotors in the rear. Does anyone else have this problem? Shouldn't I be able to get some tire chirp even with ABS if I'm standing on the brake pedal? I have been careful to pay attention to not riding the brake. I thought maybe I'm heating up the pads too much before applying full pressure, but that is not it. As far as bedding them, I just went to the track and didn't drive all out the first few laps but after that I just hauled ***.

Asquared

Others are far more expert than I am, but I wonder if it has to do with using new pagid pads on new rotors?

The bedding instructions linked above say:
I've read others on here that much prefer the steel rotors to PCCB because of the consistency, but you will get many different views on that topic.

Let us know what you discover. Your situation is concerning. I have steel rotors, but I've been wondering if I want to replace them with OEM or go a different route when it's time. I would not want to be concerned about my brakes on the track.

utkinpol

did not see what others said - when you install them make sure vibration dampers were removed as new pagids on new rotors barely fit. mine do not make any sounds during driving back home if brakes not applied.

street squeal is not fixable if you switch street pads and rs29 pads i guess. at least my set does scream a lot no matter how i try to bed them in. you can always use handbrake for final slowdown/stop at traffic light and just brake harder before light - then it will not do an old bus sound. or swap pads after last track session. when you will put street pads back for a first time after rs29s - be aware that brakes will feel quite 'slippery' until you bed them in and remove previously collected rs29 layer from rotors.

Tytus

Have you had your brakes bled before tracking? Also use high temp fluid.

Mine never fade away like you describe if I bleed the brakes to get the old fluid out from the first couple of feet of brake line. Heat breaks down the fluid properties and it can boil, introduce air which compresses and you lose braking effectiveness.

Just a thought.

Tytus

Bob Rouleau

Screech - excessive pedal force is usually and indication of pads which have been glazed, i.e., not bedded properly. The braking force required with Pagid RS 29 should be not very different than your ceramics. Once you glaze, the pads are toast.

One other possibility is ABS 'Ice" mode. Have you changed wheels and tires? If the tire diameters are not within 3 percent of the OEM tires, ABS gets confused and gives you a firm pedal with much reduced braking because the system thinks you are one a low friction surface.

This is a known issue and one has to choose wheels and tires carefully because of it.

Regards,

mdrums

+1...to bed in Pagids properly it is impossible to do on the street and you have to go at illegal speeds to do so. Like Bob said the pads coul dnot have been bedded in properly plus even if the pads are bedded in to the rotors they can unbed with street driving.

Bob, I've heard of this 3% rule with tires so that ABS properly works. They way I understood it was that the 3% had to be between the front and rear not the overall diameter. Is this correct?

dan212

You do have to bed the 29's in (per their directions).. Before using on the track. If you drive on the street before or after, the mild braking you will do there will "unbed" them a little. You don't need to bed them in as much when this happens, but do have to repeat after street driving..

When they squeal like that, just hammer them HARD once or twice and it should stop. Its the nature of the beast, but if you hammer them now and then the squeal will be reduced

PedroNole

I've read some of the other posts but not all...

My response, don't worry about the squeal. As you said, the brakes were incredible right? The odds that the squeal is due to something improper are very low. Anytime you mate a new pad with a bedded rotor, it's going to squeal. The sweal comes from the difference in surface area of rotor (already bedded will have grooves) and the pad (brand new they are flat). Next time you put a set of regular pads on your street car with bedded rotors, you will notice a squeal for a little while.

When you "bed" a pad, you are essentially doing two things:

1) properly heat-soaking the entire pad material so as to not "glaze" just the part that touches the rotor and thus not use the full pad depth for heat dissipation.

2) bedding the pad surface with the rotor surface to get maximum pad surface use efficiency. Again, when you put a new pad on a bedded rotor, you have to work the surface of the pad to match the surface of the rotor, grooves and all.

I have personally, only bedded pads on the track and have never used more than ONE lap to bed pads and I've never had a problem. I truly believe that improper bedding is more of an urban myth than reality. Keep driving it hard.

Bill Verburg

I use Pagid 19s and find that when bedded and kept clean they don't squeal much at all.
bed them per instructions
blow them out w/ compressed air after a track day(rotors too)
wash w/ a hose and drive them dry(try not to put them away wet)

JimmyT

Boy, I can attest to this. I didn't expect it, becasue I thought yellows and stock compounds are known to play well together, but I started swapping 29's for my last DE in July, and afterward the stock pads didn't grab well on the transfer layer of pad material on the rotors for quite some time. No negative side effects like the "black spoodge" from mixing compounds, but the transition is not totally seamless.

Bob Rouleau

Mike, I have heard it both ways. Logic suggests that the ABS/TC etc computer should not care about the actual diameter, just the difference in rolling diameter of the wheels and tires. I have followed that rule and had no problems. I try to keep the diameter of the wheels within a half inch of the OEM tires. Note than on cars delivered with 19 inch wheels, the diameter of the fronts and rears is different and I suspect the computer has been calibrated to deal with it. So, to be safe, keep the difference in diameter of the fronts and rears within 3 percent of the difference between the OEM equipment.

Best,