Leave bump rubber off Koni yellow shock?
#1
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It occurred to me, that changing rear shock settings on my 944 Spec car is only a PIA because we have to take the shock entirely out to remove the bump rubber, and get the adjustor to engage,then reverse the process.
With the rear bump rubber out, we could just unbolt the lower mount, adjust away, and then replace that bolt. Makes a 25" process a 5" one.
If I ran the car low, there would be some risk to bottoming, and damaging the adjuster, I suppose, though with enough foce, the bmp rubber could be compressed that far anyway (maybe).
Thoughts?
With the rear bump rubber out, we could just unbolt the lower mount, adjust away, and then replace that bolt. Makes a 25" process a 5" one.
If I ran the car low, there would be some risk to bottoming, and damaging the adjuster, I suppose, though with enough foce, the bmp rubber could be compressed that far anyway (maybe).
Thoughts?
#4
Burning Brakes
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Bump rubbers serve two purposes -
1. Prevent damage to the shock from bottoming it
2. Provide a mechanical increase in shock/spring rate as you reach the limit of compression
#1 is important if you value your wallet. (Good) Shocks ain't cheap...& you'll also spend a lot of time and money trying to hunt down weird handling issues that turn out to be "dead shock". Finding a dead shock is a whole lot harder than it sounds. Really.
#2 is important if you run low heights / low motion-ratios, and it's a "warning". Many drivers prefer to "feel" the change as the car hits the bump rubber - I don't...so I treat it as a big WARNING alarm.
1. Prevent damage to the shock from bottoming it
2. Provide a mechanical increase in shock/spring rate as you reach the limit of compression
#1 is important if you value your wallet. (Good) Shocks ain't cheap...& you'll also spend a lot of time and money trying to hunt down weird handling issues that turn out to be "dead shock". Finding a dead shock is a whole lot harder than it sounds. Really.
#2 is important if you run low heights / low motion-ratios, and it's a "warning". Many drivers prefer to "feel" the change as the car hits the bump rubber - I don't...so I treat it as a big WARNING alarm.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Personally I prefer to keep a bump rubber (I use the Koni racing ones that actually compress ...). If you want to run without to ease your shock adjustment, you can avoid metal to metal bottoming by putting "plastic packers" on the shock in place of the bump rubber. Koni sells these too as a racing part. They are about 1/8" thick and you can put as many as you need. For your case they may work because they're removable without having to take the shock apart.
Another thought ... on my 914/6 track car I run the shocks with the large end facing up. This allows me to remove my coilover springs by unbolting only the lower shock mount. It might make it easier to remove the bump rubbers if you decide to keep them.
Scott
Another thought ... on my 914/6 track car I run the shocks with the large end facing up. This allows me to remove my coilover springs by unbolting only the lower shock mount. It might make it easier to remove the bump rubbers if you decide to keep them.
Scott
#6
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Uhhh... don't you still have stock bump rubbers in the back? At least they're present in some form or another, if shortened?
That should obviate the need for a bump rubber on the shock.
I never had bump rubbers on the shock in the rear, since the vehicle's bump rubber hits well before bottoming the shock.
That should obviate the need for a bump rubber on the shock.
I never had bump rubbers on the shock in the rear, since the vehicle's bump rubber hits well before bottoming the shock.
#7
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Also - realize that not all shocks can be run upside-down (as Scott describes)... and the Spec 944 Konis are on that list, IIRC.