Trailex tie down strap options???
04-07-2010, 02:37 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Move the car back and go through the wheels. You should have about 10% of the vehicle and trailer weight at the tongue. You do not really need any cross straps as long as your "D" rings are a little wider than your wheel base.
04-07-2010, 03:26 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
This is what I tie down to at the rear, and cross diagonally. I assume that's kosher. I have the same for the front, but with it mounted so far forward, I wish I could tie down straight forward, but I can only tie the straps diagonally, which tweaks the eyelet mounts sideways. That can't be good, no? Or am I fine?
Edward
Edward
I agree that it secures the car side-to-side but is that really relevant??
04-07-2010, 03:42 PM
#33
Best practice is to cross, securing the car from lalteral movement as well as front to back. Crossing in front helps center the straps giving more clearance on low front ends. Plenty of cars can't reasonably do this so don't - 911s often risk exhaust damage crossing in rear, for example. Most of the time securing with out crossing will be fine...
04-10-2010, 04:58 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
I called and spoke to trailex recently about my new used 7541 (I tow a 944) and they recommend strap thru the tire and cross the back straps. Please check with them, they are very helpful and my memory's not what it used to be
04-10-2010, 05:30 PM
#35
Race Director
This is the way I tie down my car. No problems to date.
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...tie-downs.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...tie-downs.html
05-02-2010, 01:31 PM
#36
I put the car on the trailer this morning with the straps and ratchets that I purchased from Trailex. The rears look like they'll work just fine with the Fikse's but the fronts will rip up the front bumper/ lip big time. I screwed in the factory tow hook and proceeded to strap it in. It looks good but it puts a lot of downward force on the hook. The other predicament is that I have a few different cars that I'll be towing on the trailer. A few of them have solid wheels that will not allow me to use the trough the wheel straps.
You can get the tongue weight dialed in with scales:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-5780.html
Any decent trailer shop should loan you the scales long enough to get it about right -- just mark the axle line where you can see it as you drive-on.
Recovery hooks are threaded into the aluminum impact bumpers (they're on pistons) and they can't take any angled load, so you have to tie down from the wheel or chassis.
ps. That's a helluva nice looking trailer!
05-02-2010, 01:41 PM
#37
Drifting
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here is my trailex. I run wheel straps through the front and reat wheels with the rear straps crossed. I used to run tow eyes on the rear suspension with the straps straight and will go that way again in the next few weeks. My trailer is still set up for a 911 (another think I have not changd yet) so I need to have the car fairly well back as you can see (check where your axles are set to)
05-03-2010, 10:23 AM
#38
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you buy the mounts that bolt to the frame/suspension shown in some of the pics for the rear of your car, they will double as a good place to strap your car down for dyno pulls. Especially useful if you run NASA. The dyno guys cuss me every time because I have next to nothing worthy of strapping to on the rear of the 993.
