A few suggestions:

Make the garage as big as you can afford - it will get smaller once you move stuff into it!

As already suggested, it doesn't hurt to make the slab a bit thicker in the area where the posts will go.

Yes, most 2 post lifts will run on 220v. Just a box in the ceiling is ok, don't think you'll need outlet.

Keep the lift in mind when you are planning the garage doors. You want the door to clear a car on the lift when it is opened. If you have a door on tracks like mine, the track needs to be close to the ceiling.

enjoy the new garage!
Dave

 

you can find a pdf spec sheet on the Rotary website, but they run off 110V, just locate an outlet in the ceiling above one of the posts. Nothing wrong with pouring a pier under the floor but the specfications only call for 5" of concrete which is probably normal code or close to it. There are various mixes you can get, ask for the highest density. 12' of ceiling is plenty, it's a popular height.
EDIT: oops, Rotary at least, as Dave points out, is now 220 http://www.rotarylift.com/uploadedFi...st_2009.08.pdf


Seriously check out www.garagejournal.com rank posts by the number of views, then take a look at bmwpower and ersatzS2 builds in 'garage gallery'. There is a wealth of info, lots of details to improve the space which are budget neutral, eg pitched floor or flat? concrete finish relative to coating options? plumb for radiant heat before you pour? Lighting options? run block all the way up one wall so you can weld over there? etc.

With regard to code issues, likely you'll have your CO before the lift is installed, so no reason for inspectors to ever see it. They do sometimes get prickly more for zoning than building code issues, if they suspect you may be doing work for hire.

 

Per the OP his garage will be out back. I have yet to see post tension in a slab on grade.

Most lifts call for 4 inch thick of 3000 PSI. More materal added under this does nothing as the critical issue is fastener pull out not slab movement failure. More does not hurt a bit ether way.

Higher is better. You mention some but not much use for a F-250. I have a shop with 10'6" ceiling and a floor plate lift. Even with a 10 foor celing I can work on my little truck as well as some 2500s that some other track rats own. Can't run it to full hight with a 2500 with a cap as I built a loft over the door so I have a seat on wheels to get under the big trucks. Any of the cars the lift can be run to full hight.
Which brings me to a point many miss when purchasing lifts. Pad hight. How low and how high the lift goes is important. Rotary for example is known for short lifts with high pads. Models change so just be sure to look at the low and high points for the pads. A short lift with high pads gets tedious real quick for Porsche work. Look for a lift that gets the pads to over 6 feet. This makes for less neck craining while working on cars. Bend-Pac makes a floor plate lift that goes to over 6 feet pad hight. With 12 feet to work with I would look at a floor plate lift. Over head cable lifts use up space above the lift. Keep in mind that a home use lift will see less than 1% of the use a service shop lift will see. Any of the long time name brands will outlast you.

Good info! Outlets can't have too many. Plumb the walls with 1/2 inch copper pipe for air lines. One air port overhead near where one lift post will be for a hose reel, at least one port on each side wall and one near the roll door for another hose reel for outside stuff. If you can put the air compressor in an garden shed on the back wall of the garage with a remote air line valve and on/off switch.

 

In my dream garage, I have a few things that have cropped up in my reality garage as needed. Possibly sharing with you would cut the hassle.

Will you be welding/grinding/cutting metal? Will you be cutting wood? These things create alot of dust. Dust - metal or wood - is bad, obviously - so having it near a car you are working on seems ridiculous. To fix this, I do it outside.

Can you build something to separate this process from the rest of your garage? I'd sure think about it.

Windows. It may seem mundane and obvious - but windows make working in a closed garage during the day SO much more pleasurable.

Seating. It may seem like something you would do later, but in the design and planning - make sure that everything else you need is not taking away from walking and seating space.

 

Jeff-
Email me with any questions as I've built several nice garages for clients.

If the plate height is a concern consider using scissor trusses in the bay with the lift. We just did this for a client and from the outside you have no idea of the capacity and the cost difference is only abouy $10/ truss...
You will have to adjust your garage door placement to work out but that's no big deal...

 

My garage is post tension... but its an attached garage, so the whole house foundation is post tension.

I agree its rare (I think Las Vegas houses are post tension for earthquake protection), but its something to look out for. Drilling through a post tension wire will flat ruin your day

For the OP - I also think picking out the lift you want BEFORE pouring the slab is a great idea. That way you can tailor the slab to the lift.

 

Jeff,

Save a spot for me. Congrats on the new digs going up.

 

One thing Jeff, check the specs on the lift you intend to buy. They are all a little different, but 12' 6" floor to ceiling will work for just about every one that I have seen.

 

You can run the lift on 110v but you have to order it that way. Mine is 110v and works fine. 220v just goes up quicker.

 

Also plan for lots of workbench space - and perhaps stationary tools (like a sand blast cabinet, parts washer, hydraulic press, drill press, etc.)

Put in way more lights than you think. When I told the electrician how many fixtures I wanted, he laughed - but it has been just enough. Also, put them on lots of switches, that way you can turn on just what you need when you are doing something quick, or just pulling a tool out of the tool box.

About the lift pads, you just dig down a little deeper before the concrete pour. I did a 4" floor, but in areas about 6'x8' I went down to 8"+ because I wasn't exactly sure where the posts were going. The cost of the extra concrete for large pads is minimal, the piece of mind is excellent.

Look for a used Rotary (as someone recommended) or a Mohawk - both are top notch. I paid $1200 for my used Rotary. If you can go a little higher than 12', do it. My garage is 11' 11" - and I had to cut holes in the ceiling for the lift cylinders to go the extra 3 or 4 inches. Also, I can't lift up a van or SUV all the way.

An exhaust fan is a good idea.

Put in the largest garage door you can fit. You never know when you'll want a big truck, a trailer, or a boat in your garage. (Really, the best reason is to lift a wrecked car off the trailer...)

Start with insulating the ceiling, you can do the walls later.

Lots of outlets. I have a 4-gang box every 8 feet around the perimeter.

As someone else said, windows are nice.

An enclosed room for the air compressor will keep noise down. Internet and phone hookups are nice. Running water is nice Floor drain is super nice, but usually not allowed unless you have an oil trap and EPA approval.

That's about all I can think of for now!

 

stacking is handy.

Wall mounted storage helps keep floor space open.

Flat surface area. You need to have work benches as well as places to put stuff that is needed but not right then. I like having a large rolling work bench and tool rack that i can take to the work rather than wander to the tool box and back 300 times. Makes tool clean up easer too.

Windows up high, lets in light and air but does not eat up as much bench or tool storage wall space.

 

Kurt, I seem to remember a thread long ago where you made your "lift platform conversion", no? Good job with that.

High windows probably also help with security... Keeps away prying eyes.

 

DONE...a bead-blaster and parts cleaner are a must...and tools, boy have I got some tools!

As far as receptacles, looks like I'll have to tap about 50% more than they're providing as EACH receptacle over the EIGHT they are providing is $75 EACH...I can do them for about $5 each.

I'm putting 4 port receptacles in the ceiling, 3 of them, two will be switched for lights, the other will be for droplight/gar.door opener and NOT switched.

SO FAR I've come away with:

Pour THICKER concrete in area of lift, support with rebar/mesh if able to.

Put a 220v receptacle in the ceiling, above where the lift will be...most lifts have the electrical portion on the LEFT post (when facing front of garage - do we concur on that?

Run every damn sort of service out there, via conduit, that you can...phone/internet (CAT5)/coax for TV...etc. - will talk to them about "adding" my own little conduit run when they run the electrical trench from the house.

Try and find a deal on a good used Rotary lift...and I've noticed...most are BLUE!!

I am "on the fence" with regards to plumbing and a roughed in bathroom, don't think it'll be that necessary but may have a water spigot conveniently placed at the rear of the house or up into the garage?? ...will definitely run my sprinkler system well pump out of the main garage.

 

I work as a structural designer (25 years) and here's my advice:

1. Get a copy of the specs for the lift. They will tell you what's required.
2. Whether you need to pour thicker concrete is dependent on the load, the strength of the concrete, and the bearing capacity of the soil.
3. Placing 1/2" reinforcing bar will prevent failure of the concrete due to poor bearing of the soil.

Example: F150 (4000 lbs) + lift (1000 lbs) = 5000 lb
Divide by 2 (half load on each post) = 2500 lbs
spread over area of post base plate (assume 1' square) 2500lbs divided by 144 (sq inches in a foot) = 17 psi (lbs per sq inch)
concrete = 3000psi > 17psi = OK

If it were me, I'd insist on rebar rather than wire mesh for a workshop floor. If the floor were only reinforced with mesh, I'd place rebar in a 6' square at 12" on center underneath where the lift posts will rest as a minimum. Also, after all the reinforcing is in but before the concrete is placed, you should (if you use rebar) layout where the lift anchor bolts will go (the specs should have a template) and make sure there is nothing in the way, especially if the slab is post tension. Drilling thru rebar is to be avoided as it breaks continuity.

Disclaimer: I'm not a licensed engineer so if you want to be thorough have one review you plans for adequacy. If any readers are please feel free to correct me if necessary.

 

I suggest at minimum a sink and hot/cold water. The reason is you want a place to wash you hands not in the kitchen sink. Shop sinks can get dirty very fast so keep the grim to the shop. My father has a nice one. Large free standing plastic box type. It is deep and very simple. Plus being plastic hard to break.