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Enclosed Aluminum Trailer Question

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Old 08-16-2009, 08:53 PM
  #31  
RickBetterley
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Originally Posted by txhansen
I have come to the conclusion that I just need to bite the bullet and get the diesel 3/4 ton truck as much as I don't want to.
Good idea; you'll be a lot safer for it.
And, its a good time to be buying.
Old 08-16-2009, 09:19 PM
  #32  
Glen
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The other way to go is to use arrive and drive/support solutions. Several of Us have already lived the dream You are currently pursuing with it culminating in the 1 ton dually and 38 ft aluminum enclosed 2 car with all the goodies ac etc...Ended up making more sense to buy a transporter and all go together. I have the awesome trailex enclosed(sold) I never use in addition to the open. We also have a 24 ft box and a 32 ft box along with 2 transport trailers....lol
You would be surprised how many races You can run fully supported for the cost of the cool trailer and big truck. As You know You are always welcome to ride with Us and we have the advantage of having most of the spares You need in addition to the mechanic/tech support.

You get home rested and back to work on time, Very Very valuable if You step back and reflect on it...

Next trip is Road America if You want to go!
Old 08-17-2009, 11:37 PM
  #33  
F350Lawman
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Yukon/Suburban and 24" aluminum trailer + Weight distribution +Sway control + Prodigy brake controller(cranked up) = A decent setup IMO.

Good trailer brakes and a proper WD hitch make or break the deal in my experience. Unless you have a 1 ton truck, you need a real spot-on setup. With the 1 ton you have some wiggle room, but then 40-50K of your race budget gets consumed if you go that route.
Old 08-18-2009, 09:18 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by txhansen
I have come to the conclusion that I just need to bite the bullet and get the diesel 3/4 ton truck as much as I don't want to.
You don't need to spend much to get a good tow vehicle. In particular the 7.3L Ford 250 PSD can be bought with high miles with little fear of engine issues, assuming it was cared for. I bought my 2001 with 157K miles on it a few seasons ago and paid $13K. I put a new tranny in right away and some tranny cooling upgrades, so I was all in at $15K. It now has 174K miles on it and all I have had to do was change the oil and make one repair, replacing the starter.

I paid extra for a Crew Cab/Lariat version. These days things are much cheaper and you can buy a decent non-Lariat for under $10K and get years of service out of it. An example in TX: http://tinyurl.com/qwdyn4

Drive it for a few years, sell it and get all but a couple thousand dollars back. Not a bad way to go for piece of mind of having a proper tow vehicle.
Old 08-18-2009, 01:10 PM
  #35  
M758
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Buying used is the way to go. Back in 2002 I got a 99 Dodge 2500 V10 with 40k on it for 16k or so. 7 years later the truck as 62k on it with at least 20k miles towing and in great shape to last many more years.



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