My tire question now becomes: Do I replace my R-compounds with another set, or go to non-R??
I installed my first set of R-compounds (Michelin Pilot Sport Cups) in Columbus, drove to Indianapolis, ran at Putnam. I spun the car once, a friend spun it once (both big spins).

See the result below. That is ONE WEEKEND. I destoryed two tires. The one is corded, the other flat spotted.

So my question is: Is it appropriate to replace them with another set of MPSCs given that I have to drive to and from the track?? Or do I abandon this and switch to a set of Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Specs/Bridgestone RE11?

It's my first R-cmpd and I guess I didn't realize how soft they are. I'm wondering if driving from Columbus to MidOhio and the Bluegrass track later this year is going to chew them up before I even get to the track?

And how easy is it to destroy one with a spin? Geez... I went through $700 in one weekend. Can't do that again!

Thanks for any advice.

 

One look at your avatar, and those tires, and that says it all; you need more camber F&R. I have found that MPSCs will eat themselves up otherwise. With a proper setup, they are one of the longest lasting R compound tires made. BTW we had the same problem with MPSCs on my son's WRX. Once we stiffened up the suspension and gave it some proper camber, all was good.

 

(The avatar is before the current setup). I'm running about as much camber as I can and still drive to the track. If I had a trailer, I could run more. I'm not going to get too radical on suspension on this car. I'll do it on my next track car. So maybe the MPSC aren't right for my setup.
But the tires wore evenly except for the spin-spots. So did my previous tires (not R-cmpd).

 

Wow! Stop spinning!!!

 

Why do you say that? The inside edges of your tires are positively virginal.

Unless you put a lot of street miles on your car and are tearing up your streets, the few hundred driving to the track on your track tires does not mean much. I'd set the front for -2.5 and the back for -3 degrees.

 

I agree with Larry.

 

yes, please see above!

a big lockup and/or spin will flat spot/cord out a street tire, too.

the Sport Cups are a LONG lasting tire; recently, i've been working with a new client; he drives a NASA ST-2 prepped Mitsu EVO; it has a full cage, competition suspension, yada yada, yet it is also still registered and plated. he has completed two race weekends with it, and has driven it to and from the track. he runs the Sport Cups (235s on 17" wheels). the tires still look fantastic; i'd say at least 70% tread remaining. that's about 5 hard track hours, and a couple thousand street miles too (drives it to and from the shop, and to and from the dyno, and to and from the track, etc).

the Sport Cups can definitely be a dual purpose tire. as was said above -- you can't really blame those tires for self destructing from multiple spins/lockups!

good luck!

todd
ReidSpeed

 

OK, I'll talk to the alignment guys and see if more camber is realistic. -2.5 and -3 sound a bit much for dual purpose. No? I don't drive on the street much, but it does go to and from the track and occasional day-long outings.

 

It really depends on how much you use it on the track versus not on the track.

I'm guessing that you don't have anybody bringing tires to the track for you. If you do, problem solved: get as much negative camber as you can get and then swap tires at the track.

If not, then problem solved: get a second set of tires, drive street tires for the street driving, and put on the track tires when you head out to the track. BTW, again, get as much negative camber as you can.

 

Can you take a picture of the outside edge 180 degrees from the flat spot?

 

Time to get a dually and enclosed trailer.

Tom

 

I have run those tires and done the same. Larry is spot on. those tires NEED the correct suspension set up and love neg camber. If you run street camber (less than 1.5 neg) you will were the outsides out all day.
dont fool youself when the camber is right for the tires even driving on the street the tires wear smooth and even.
when I used to drive to the track after each event I would switch the tires side to side to get some more life out of them.
R compound DOT are still the way to go for you dont give up, but it is a learning curve.
Also those tires cant be run above 40psi. they take time to heat up but they do heat up and become greasy. you must keep them at 38-40 hot or they wear and loose grip.

 

Good advice here.
I ran Toyo Proxes RA-1 R comps on my 85 Carrera. Drove it to and from every track event, including lots of 4 -7 hour runs to Mid Ohio, Watkins Glen and VIR. Also did double duty as a fairly regular street driver as well.

A set of RA-1 would last the best part of a full season, which was 10 or so events. No problem with uneven wear. All this happened in my second and third year of DEs, which was the high point of my personal spin cycle. While I didn't damage the car, there were quite a few spectacular spins over this period. The tires held up well. Take note of Tom's comment. Get these tires too hot [above 40psi] and they become very soft and greasy. They can be easily flat spotted in that condition.

 

I've actually found them to work better on my C2 in the 34-36 range hot. I too drive to and from the track with the MPSCs and have always been pleased with how long they last.

 

Wow Larry, you're like a God here

Look at the tread marks on the outside edge on either side of the corded area. There is still meat on those tires they corded from a spin. End of story!

BMW's are easier to drive, that's my solution...