Chris M.

I can vouch for this about the 97s and I have a now ugly, formerly gorgeous set of blue painted Fuchs to show for it. 97 brake dust + water + heat = ruined wheels. I've tried many different chemicals and the only thing I know that will remove it is sandpaper.

himself

I like the 06s more than the 01s in all regards except stopping power. The 06s last way longer, generate much less heat, and create significantly less dust.

-td

sig_a

General observation from the buckeye state:

>You will quickly learn that blue painter's tape seems less important the more DE's you do.

>Brake dust corrosion may or may not effect your wheels depending on what type of factory finish is applied. Fikse, Forgeline offer anodized coating which resists corrosion. Also, easy enough to wipe off with a cloth rag after each session. But you'll lose interest in that soon enough.

>Pagid Orange brake pads work well for torsion bar Carreras, and are easy on rotors -- track and street. Plus, you only have to bed in once.

>Brake flush and bleed before each event is very important. ATE Blue/Gold is minimum, temperature wise.

Potomac-Greg

There's nothing that I see that says how old the car is. If you haven't flushed (not bled, flushed) the fluid in 2 years, then flush it. It was due anyway. And if your pads are 1/2 worn, either switch to new pads, or bring the extra pads along with you. You don't want to burn off your brake pads and miss track time!

VaSteve

I have rusted junk on the doors of my car from running it in the rain last weekend at the Glen.


To the OP, If this is your first DE, and you're that concerned about chipping paint, don't worry....you'll be so slow the only thing you'll need to worry about chipping paint is if a dump truck went by. You won't be anywhere close to the other cars.

mdrums

Go to the DE with tock pads when you get home wash the car....simple as that.

I am very **** about the looks of my car and the pad dust will not hurt your car...geesh!

RonCT

Not to beat a dead horse, but change your brake fluid altogether and don't use the blue stuff. ATE 200 is OK for early DE use, Motul is better, and Castrol SRF for when you get into the more advanced run groups. The blue dye is not your friend in the ATE Blue. For pads, stick with stock until you have to change them (50% worn) and then get an intermediate pad. But don't toss the OEM ones, keep them as your street pad and swap for each event. I use Pagid Yellow 29, Bkack 14, 4-2-1 Blue (Sport Pads), PFC 97s, and hated Pagid Orange (glazed up the rotors like you wouldn't believe). Of all those, I'd go from stock to Pagid 4-2-1 Blue (also known as Sport Pads) - much less expensive than any others and very capable / gentle on the rotors (I just ran 2 days in Black / Red at Watkins Glen in my 09 C2S - they were fine). Focus on your desire to learn and try to not worry about too many technical issues like fluids, pads, tires, etc.

Best advice - go and enjoy your first DE. Be a sponge. Meet lots of people and compare experiences.

breale01

Thanks again to everyone for the great feedback! I feel alot less anxious about my first DE. Sounds like a brake 'flush' is the most important thing, and a little blue painter's tape won't hurt. Pads can either wait, or if I'm approaching 50% on my stock pads, maybe the PFC -01's or -06s for the track then swap back to the stocks.

Can't wait.

mdrums

I went the Performance Friction route before...my suggestion is when it is time for pads go with Pagid. Either the 421 or the RS29 Yellows.

It will be awhile before you do this and you will need to be running R-Compound rubber. Pads and tires are a system.

breale01

Roger that.

jscott82

exactly.....

Have a great time, then get out the bobsled, because it is a long slipperly slope from here..... :-)

85Gold

I would go with a brand new set of pads. Carbotech XP8 will be fine for your 1st time and the dust comes off easy. The reason for going with new pads & new fluid is you don't want to have to worry about wear at your 1st DE Just have fun. What track are you running as some tracks are much easier on brakes than others.

Peter

kurt M

+1 on your first DE with a car in stock good condition with fresh brake fluid.

Steve, You need some of the Metaldustremover and it just so happens I still have 3 cases in stock.

There are rust removers that are formulated for direct contact with paint and powdercoat.

Most contain dilute Phosphoric acid in a detergent solution and will will remove rust stain/dust from painted wheels and the car itself without damage. Some formulations also have oxalic acid in them as well.

breale01

The track is Tremblant 2 hours north of Montreal.

The car is a '90 911 C2 and guess what, it looks like the stock rear caliper/pad setup are quite peculiar. So far, I've only found CarboTech and Porterfield make pads for my rear. So if I do need pads, it'll be a choice between the CarboTech XP8 and Porterfield R-4. Any comments on what you'd choose between these two (Porterfields seem significantly cheaper)? And back to my original post regarding non-corrosive nature of the dust, how are the Porterfields?

85Gold

Usually U get what you pay for of the 2 choices go Carbotech and yes I have run them.

Peter